Which Stripped Lower and Why?

Which Stripped Lower and Why?

  • $35 Anderson, forged

    Votes: 16 28.6%
  • $40 Anderson with integral Oversized Trigger Guard

    Votes: 12 21.4%
  • $60 Aero Forged

    Votes: 20 35.7%
  • $110 Spikes

    Votes: 1 1.8%
  • Almost Anything Billet

    Votes: 1 1.8%
  • Something Else

    Votes: 6 10.7%

  • Total voters
    56
Status
Not open for further replies.

Skylerbone

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
7,141
Location
Hawkeye East
Straightforward, which of these, if any, do you or would you prefer when assembling an AR? It’s ok to cite reputation or “I like the logo”, just interested in expanding my knowledge on the subject.
 
I usually use Anderson lowers, but I love Mega Arms and Aero manufacturing. Both cost a lot more than an Anderson, but the finish is nicer, and they both have added features that make for a nicer finished rifle if your build is pointed towards classy instead of utilitarian.
 
I've assembled 4 AR lowers and done some work on buddies' rifles as well. So some experience, but not a bunch my any means.

I've assembled 2 Anderson's, 1 Spikes, and 1 Stag. I bought the Andersons because they were in stock and the price was right. The Spikes was because it was one of the funny lowers. The Stag was just to try something new.

They all look exactly the same. Honestly, I like the annodizing on the Andersons the best as they aren't as "chalky" and seem smoother than both the Spikes and Stag. On top of that, the Andersons seemed to go together much easier. That also depends on the lower kits and not having tolerance stacking, but again, in my experience, Andersons were easier to work with.

One last thing that I plan on working on, is that my Spikes lower does not like the KNS antiwalk pins that are used with my POF trigger. They are tight, but there is some minor wiggling (either the pins are too long or the reciever is too thin). I will be buying another brand to test on other receivers so I'll get back to that later if anyone cares.

So for me, if you're OK having a boring "budget Anderson", that's my choice. But I do want to do an Aero build because I like their logo, it's different but still affordable.
 
I love my Core15 lower for the small details. However, for the money I would save with an Anderson, I could get a skin, rattle-can it, or put the money into something that is more than cosmetic.
 
Palmetto State Armory: $53 out the door, and local business.

If you aren't local, Anderson: because no matter how expensive the lower is, it'll still be a soulless tool.
 
I bought my first Anderson (w/integral trigger guard) a couple of years ago and I like it very much. I much prefer the integrated trigger guard.

In April I had a sudden, un-planned need for another Lower and started thinking about OTD costs.

I discovered that Cabela's has the open trigger guard Andersons for $49.99, $10 more than AIM ... but ... I do not have to pay for shipping, transfer fee or make a 40 mile roundtrip out of my way to pick it up.

Some folks have mentioned getting equivalent deals at gunshows but attending a gunshow represents a huge PITA for me.

I recently (last week) did the Cabela's thing for the 2nd time. Very pleased. :)
 
I've put together 5 Anderson's, 1 PSA, and worked on a couple others, so I don't have a valid opinion other than to say the Anderson's I've used have all been fine. If you can get the integral oversized trigger guard for $5 more I would do so as I like them and it saves the money from buying a magpul one to put on.
 
Those don’t include the fee, which is $10. I always give him $20, he always tries to argue with me, he takes care of my more complicated smithing needs though so I don’t mind. Never asked if there’s a 1 price for any number at the same time, but I figure any order is a wash (each listed receiver incurs the same flat fee if ordering 1).

I included price as it can sway perception, which again is fine, so long as people are willing to say they’re willing to pay for reputation or perceived quality or actual quality.
 
:what: $10! As you already know, that is a crackerjack transfer fee. :)

I got so used to paying transfer fees starting with my FAL Builds many years ago (and continuing when building out HK and AK kits) that I "kneejerked" into ordering my first AR Lower in 2015 online and having it shipped to my LGS (~15 years ago I purchased a couple completed Lowers). Before getting there to pick it up I realized that I had done it out of old habit and if there was a next time, I would first check offerings & prices at LGSs, since said pricing would include XFER.

I was very happy to discover that the local new Cabela's (which is very near to where I do my weekly, early-morning grocery shopping) offered Anderson Lowers.
 
The $60 forged Aero is as state of the art as a $60 lower can get. You might find a cheaper lower and you can pay much more but for $60 you can have a great lower that will work for the rest of you life. The only thing I wish they would do is build a lower and upper that is anodized gray like the early Colt rifles. I don't want it coated, I want it anodized.
kwg
 
I typically would recommend any lower forged at Brass Aluminum or Cerro. That encompasses a LOT of brands. These are denoted by the Keyhole and Square forge markings.

What I BUY is typically Bushmaster, Aero, Spikes on occasion, and Ruger.

My last 6 have all been on Ruger AR556 lowers. 8 before that were Aeros. Bushmasters are just getting too hard to find. I do have a few Spikes for myself, and have built a bunch for other guys. I don’t buy lowers for $100+, but I never feel bad about paying $75-85, out the door. Love to spend $40-50, but I wouldn’t buy a $30 lower online of some brand I don’t actually want, ship it, transfer it, just to save money.

If I were trying to win the internet by building a $350 carbine, I’d worry about pricing and might tolerate any of a dozen other brands. I prefer to have less writing on the lowers, and I feel like some companies try to fill space on the receiver with text. I like Aero, Spikes, Bushmaster, and Ruger, and they can be had for $75-85, so I’ll pay for them.
 
... Both cost a lot more than an Anderson, but the finish is nicer, and they both have added features that make for a nicer finished rifle if your build is pointed towards classy instead of utilitarian.
Hmmmm. Reading that made me think about the subject of ARs.

I realized that my fundamental attitude regarding ARs is that, to me, they are all Utilitarian, to a great degree due to the LEGO-esque nature of the things. Some look better than others (and some of the tricked-out ones just look silly) but MUCH more than most types of firearms, ARs are just Tools to me. Now that I think of it, so are AKs ... but not quite to the same point as ARs. Hmmm.

First time that I have ever pondered that.

I guess that helps to explain why in a movie if I see someone drop/throw down an Lee-Enfield, M1, M14, 1903, K98k. etc (even a FAL or H&KG3) it makes me cringe but they can toss M16s to the ground all day long and it doesn't bother me at all.

Sorry, Skylerbone, didn't mean to wander so far afield. :)
 
I'D buy Anderson, but it annoys me that I have to tap the grip screw the rest of the way through to install the set screw for my trigger job. I wonder why they don't do theirs. Seems simpler to go all the way when machining them.....

If it's an aero gen 2 with the set screw to add tension to the upper and take out play, I'd pay an additional $10 for it over the anderson and to not have to tap the screw hole. But those $70+ lowers that only offer a different roll mark, I'm out. Now if they older a feature you need like 45 degree safety throws......maybe, but probably not.
 
Aero Gen 2 lower and upper sets are very nice for the money. The lower has threaded pins for the bolt catch and the upper has a threaded pin for the forward assist, both of those are great for assembly. Another thing as was mentioned above is the tension screw to take out any play between upper and lower receivers is a nice feature as well. I've built on Andersons and PSA in the past but I think for an extra $20-30 I'll be buying Aeros.
 
I've only built on Andersons and a few PSA blems. They have all turned out good, usable rifles that have been a welcome addition to the collection. My most used build is a BCM complete upper on a PSA blem lower with Stag LPK.
 
I'D buy Anderson, but it annoys me that I have to tap the grip screw the rest of the way through to install the set screw for my trigger job. I wonder why they don't do theirs. Seems simpler to go all the way when machining them.....

If it's an aero gen 2 with the set screw to add tension to the upper and take out play, I'd pay an additional $10 for it over the anderson and to not have to tap the screw hole. But those $70+ lowers that only offer a different roll mark, I'm out. Now if they older a feature you need like 45 degree safety throws......maybe, but probably not.

All my Anderson's have been tapped through for the set screw mod
 
Mega makes a nice lower as well. The magwell is a little more open than many which is good for quick reloads.

IIRC, I have a PSA blem, an Aero, a Mega, a Charles Daly, an RRA, a Surplus Arms and Ammo 1st Gen, an Anvil Arms, and have built two Andersons for my sons. They all work just fine, some are prettier, some have a cooler logo, some logos are cut in real nice, and some are sloppy.

I have an AR in .22 Lr, 9MM, .223, .223, .223, 300 BLK. One complete lower has no upper right now, gave the upper to my eldest child.
 
Ive had a few Andersons, and one was off. One of the holes was not anodized, or at least not colored. Im guessing it was finsihed, and the missing hole was caught on QC. and the hole drilled. It also had a shallow cut for the bolt stop. Two minutes grinding the bolt stop fixed it, but taking the bolt stop out, and putting it in twice is a no fun. Was it worth the $130 difference from my first stripped lower ten years before? Definitely. The other anderson lowers I had were perfect. Theres a lot of "mil spec" crap floating around because some Anderson lowers dont have full threads for the grip bolt. Funny thing about that, a "milspec" bolt works fine, but the various aftermarket screws did not, but "muh magpul dudnt fit, it t'aint milspec nuff!!" The best I have had was CMMG. Dont know what the finish is, but its tough, though if you don't have a matching upper, it looks strange. If you do get an Anderson, you can always tell the Colt fanboys your has a pony too :)
 
Aero's are the best price/performance lowers on the market. Both their standard GenII and their M4E1's. Tighter tolerance than Andersons, flared magwell, upper/lower tension screw, etc. The just generally fit uppers tighter.
 
I'D buy Anderson, but it annoys me that I have to tap the grip screw the rest of the way through to install the set screw for my trigger job. I wonder why they don't do theirs. Seems simpler to go all the way when machining them.....

If it's an aero gen 2 with the set screw to add tension to the upper and take out play, I'd pay an additional $10 for it over the anderson and to not have to tap the screw hole. But those $70+ lowers that only offer a different roll mark, I'm out. Now if they older a feature you need like 45 degree safety throws......maybe, but probably not.
I too found that out when looking at the screw mod. I checked a few others, some are all the way, some are not. There seems to be no pattern to it either.
 
I voted for the $40.00 Anderson with the guard. I'd pay $5 extra for a good integral guard. Just to ease assembly, and be a bit bigger than original, although it seems to be "normal" to have an oversize finger port with the current rifles coming out.

Other than that... Whatever is cheapest! I'm not set on Anderson, or even on fixed guards, but because I'm a cheapskate I'll take whatever is cheapest out the door! Got one from Bud's last time I was there, because I didn't have to pay shipping or transfer fee. This way, I can spend more money where it matters... barrel and optic. Oh, and more ammo ;D
 
It depends on my budget and what I want to accomplish with the build. A more standard build the cheap Anderson is the way I would go but if I had a big budget and wanted a nice rifle I would go for a billet in the style I like. The lower would probably be the last piece I would spend extra money on since it has no benefit except cosmetic.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top