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White Wax Buildup

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JayBird

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Jan 25, 2011
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Okay...I guess I did a boo boo. I bought the typical wood stock wax from off the gun shelf at my local Gander Mountain to apply a bit of a shine to a wood checkered stock.

Now I am left with dryed white wax buildup in some areas of the checkering.

What is the best way to remove this?

And what products work best in the future from protecting natural wood but provides a nice shine without the white buildup?
 
The above method will work. When you get the white waxy residue removed, get some, are you ready for this? Get some Renaissance Wax. This wax is used by the Smithsonian, several English armor museums, and the NRA weapons museum. Use this wax "sparingly"!! I use an old T-shirt to apply it to my firearms and stocks. It can be applied to any metal parts, barrels, actions, cylinders. Just a slight amount on the rag, wipe it on, taking time to rub into the metal. You do not need to wait, it can be wiped off immediately. It will leave a very nice luster on the barrel and actions, as well as the stock. The can of wax should cover many, many firearms, if used sparingly. YMMV If applied to barrels, you'll probably notice it removing slight rust, will protect it from more!
 
Or get some Johnson's paste wax at the hardware store for 5 bucks a can. The can is big enough to wax a few hundred guns.
 
The above method will work. When you get the white waxy residue removed, get some, are you ready for this? Get some Renaissance Wax. This wax is used by the Smithsonian, several English armor museums, and the NRA weapons museum. Use this wax "sparingly"!! I use an old T-shirt to apply it to my firearms and stocks. It can be applied to any metal parts, barrels, actions, cylinders. Just a slight amount on the rag, wipe it on, taking time to rub into the metal. You do not need to wait, it can be wiped off immediately. It will leave a very nice luster on the barrel and actions, as well as the stock. The can of wax should cover many, many firearms, if used sparingly. YMMV If applied to barrels, you'll probably notice it removing slight rust, will protect it from more!
Renaissance wax is great stuff, but be ready for the sticker shock. If I remember it runs about 27 bucks a can, but will go a long way. Mineral spirits and a tooth brush works fine and will not hurt the finish of your rifle as long as you wipe it clean and I would do as this poster said and wax it carefully with a good quality wax such as the Renaissance. Liberon and Mylands are good products also. Stay away, in general from the gunstore stuff as most things sold are overpriced and usually inferior. In my experience this goes for lubricants as well as many other types of similar products.
 
Use a hair dryer and heat up the affected area. The wax should melt and become invisible when it cools off.
 
Use a hair dryer and heat up the affected area. The wax should melt and become invisible when it cools off.
That is an interesting option. I know the melting point for beeswax is around 144 degrees F and carnauba is a little bit higher, but when mixed with a variety other materials with lower melting points in a much softer formulation with a much lower combination of probable carnauba wax it probably works. I assume you have tried it and therefore that must be why it works. My question is, does it ever return to leave some residual whiteness?
 
^^^^
Not in my experience. If there is too much wax, just dab it with a paper towel while it is melted, what is left will spread out into a thin coating.
 
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