Why a safe isn't enough!

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"Fail-Safe™ Relocker

Sensory device coupled with layers of hardened steel positioned between the lock and doorplate. Secures the door in the locked position if the lock is punched, drilled or torched in an attempted entry. All Liberty brand models include this feature."

John

Glad they trademarked that gem...otherwise I would have used it myself. Although their name makes it sound like a security feature they invented, it is actually a common method which has been used long before gun safes were even thought of.

The relocker on that safe is a small piece of square steel stock with a spring attached to it. The lock cover holds it in place, and it's located approximately 1/2" from the lock itself.

In this case, the relocker would have been destroyed right along with the lock, thus making it worthless.

Whoever used a torch on this safe was obviously a novice, as a torch is overkill for 1/10" sheet steel.

It seems to me that most safes are used as the last line of defense. If they've gotten past the dogs, the boobytraps, the alarm, and the mother in law, it's the only thing between them and your valuables.

If it's my last chance to save anything, I'm going to give it everything I've got, and not what might be good enough or even average. If your only reason to lock your guns up is to keep the kids out, these types of safes are perfect. If you think you even have the slightest chance of getting burglarized, why even waste your money?
 
I agree, but most people have to buy what they can afford.

Back to the Liberty relocker for a sec: Is that their relocker or one that comes on the S&G lock? They make it sound like it's part of the lock.

John
 
Fella's;

I'm familiar with the Liberty RSC's, and the relocking device. Notice that I did say that most RSC's did not have a relocker, and I'll stand by that statement. Liberty's need a lot more than a relocker to protect the buyer's goods though. Current production Liberty's have no, zero, nada, el-uh-uh, zip, zilch, bupkus, plate steel in the wall or door construction. The door is a sheet metal wrap on an insulated core. It looks thick, but the door panel is not plate. This is tin can construction IMHO.

900F
 
I agree, but most people have to buy what they can afford.

I agree 100%. However, there are better safes available in the same price range. There are much better safes available for a nominal difference in price.

Back to the Liberty relocker for a sec: Is that their relocker or one that comes on the S&G lock? They make it sound like it's part of the lock.

Technically there is a relocker internal to the lock itself. The relocker they are speaking of is an additional relocker mounted to the side of the lock. This safe would have had two relockers, both bypassed with ease.

There are tool rated safes which use a very similar set up. The difference between them and this gun safe, is the 1.5" solid steel plate between the outside and the inside.

When you get to your nicer safes (even gun safes), they start using remote relockers which are located in other positions on the door instead of by the lock. That set up makes this type of attack much more difficult.

Of course you can do whatever you want to do with these sheet metal gun safes. Ball bearing barriers, hard plate, remote relockers, and the like would be similar to installing multiple deadbolts on a sliding glass door. When it's all said and done, you're just going to break the glass, and those locks won't matter.
 
It would be great (hint) to get a list of "better safes' at a comparable price or for nominally more.

I have conducted quite abit of "on-line" research into "gun safes" which means very little.

What would be a good "gun safe or RSC"? I've seen the TL 30 safes but the size and weight and price are a little out of my range. I would list how much I can spend but that reminds me to much of the used car salesmans question. How much can you spend - Gee, we have a car at just that price?

http://www.directsafes.com/burglary-safe.cfm?ProductID=30

This site links to a TL30 safe that looks like it would be a good safe at a good price but the external dimensions and weight - escp. the weight aorry me.

Do any experts out there no of a lighter safe around that size that is a good compromise for the weight and money?

I could possibly surround it with "hardy board" so it looks like a homemade cabinet in my detached backyard workshop (raised wood floor) to strengthen it some. That "hardy board (cement fiber board really eats up saw blades).

Also, any opinions on "Sturdy Safes out of Fresno, CA? They sound like a good product but not too much less in price if I remember right.
 
Correct me if Iam wrong CP900F, but from what I have researched, the AMSEC BF series is the best if the RSCs. I believe AMSEC is the only company making a TL30 rated gun safe.
 
It would be great (hint) to get a list of "better safes' at a comparable price or for nominally more.

This really depends on the specific safe that you are looking at. But I'll start with a basic "entry level" gun safe.

Many of the big name manufacturers import their entry level safes (and even some of their upper end) from China. These safes are 12 gauge all the way around (doors & bodies), and these companies put their name on them.

I sell an "unknown" brand of gun safes which come from the same Chinese manufacturer. The safes I have are 10 gauge bodies, with 1/4" doors. I can sell these safe for about the same price as their lighter name branded counterparts.

What would be a good "gun safe or RSC"? I've seen the TL 30 safes but the size and weight and price are a little out of my range. I would list how much I can spend but that reminds me to much of the used car salesmans question. How much can you spend - Gee, we have a car at just that price?

This does depend on the type of safe you're looking for, and the price range. At the moment, I think the AMSEC BF series is one of the best RSCs in its price range.

Graffunder builds excellent safes (CB900F sells them), which are built heavier than the AMSECs. They also weigh more, with their lightest gun safe being in the 1,400 pound range.

If you wanted to spend $100,000, I can certainly put you into a very large modular vault today! :D

the external dimensions and weight - escp. the weight aorry me.

Once you get into the realm of "real safes" the weight is a concern. Most real safes are heavy because they offer real security. The heavier they are, the more you are limited to concrete floor installations.

I have installed some very heavy safes into residential structures, but it was done during the building process and designed to support the weight.

Do any experts out there no of a lighter safe around that size that is a good compromise for the weight and money?

Again, this would depend on your budget. The no name safes I mentioned above may be suitable for your use. The AMSEC BF series is definately worth looking at, as are the Graffunder B rated safes.

All of these safes are light enough to go into your home, but will have a range of prices in relation to their level of protection.

Also, any opinions on "Sturdy Safes out of Fresno, CA? They sound like a good product but not too much less in price if I remember right.

I am not overly familiar with their products, but do know that they use thicker steel. This is the first thing I would look for in a gun safe when comparing one against another.

Correct me if Iam wrong CP900F, but from what I have researched, the AMSEC BF series is the best if the RSCs. I believe AMSEC is the only company making a TL30 rated gun safe

AMSEC runs at the higher end of the lighter weight gun safes. AMSEC is also the only company to build a UL listed TL-30 gun safe. Graffunder builds an F rate gun safe which would be fairly similar in theft resistance to the TL-30.
 
OK...so this always seems to come up when there's a thread about safes. "What you have is crap, and you're an idiot for buying "______". For just a little more money I can sell you the ultimate safe

Now, this many of may not be true. What I'd like to finally see is

(1) How much do they cost???

(2) How much do they weigh (will my floor over the basement hold them)

(3) How can I get one without paying a zillion dollars in freight???

Graffunder builds excellent safes (CB900F sells them), which are built heavier than the AMSECs. They also weigh more, with their lightest gun safe being in the 1,400 pound range.
It would be great to have a super duper safe, but I suspect that if the average person tried to put a 1,400# safe in their house, the first story would quickly become the basement level.

I click on the link, and I see what appears to be a $499 typical chain store gun safe. This seems to be similar to the one you ridicule as being worthless sheet metal. I can get a gun store safe for maybe $850-1,250. If I could get one of your real safes that wouldn't buckle my floors for maybe close to the same money, I'd be all over it. I had a chance to get a "real" safe free from a utility company that closed down. How in the world do you move something that weighs 5 tons and put it in a home???
 
One thing I think is worth mentioning because of the title, is that time is of the essence.

Get a home alarm system, and for usually around $200 extra you can put in the cell phone dial up (in case the perps know to cut phone lines). While I agree, get as good a safe as you can afford, don't let a perp be able to spend time around it either. Making the layers difficult and pressure to leave dominating, they shouldn't have too much time with your safe.
 
Fella's;

Ah, c'mon NRA gimmie a break. I move the Graffunders all the time. In fact on this site within the last month, the collective wisdom helped a member move his Graffunder within the home to facilitate a remodel. People do take 'em with them when they move because they recognize the value of the Graffunder. It can be done.

OK, to answer some other questions. Lightest weight is 1100 lbs for a B11 unit that's capable of long gun storage. Prices currently run from the high two thousands and up. Graffunder capable of, and willing to be, a custom builder. Therefore, within reason, you can have whatever you're willing to pay for.

It is perfectly possible to get a good safe, 64 slots, 4 feet wide, 6 feet high, over 2 feet deep, and keep the price to about 5 good guns. Not talkin' milsurps, talkin' Sako's.

900F
 
OK...so this always seems to come up when there's a thread about safes. "What you have is crap, and you're an idiot for buying "______". For just a little more money I can sell you the ultimate safe

Actually, I believe this was the point of the original posters thread. He was showing people how little security (crap safe) was offered by that particular safe manufacturer.

There are Brycos, and there are Sigs. Both are handguns, both fire ammunition, but one will outperform the other. As such, that product costs more.

1) How much do they cost???

Depends. I sell the 10 gauge gun safes starting at $399. I also sell TRTL60X6 safes in the $25,000 range. We could even get up to $100,000 worth of walk in vault if your situation demanded it.

(2) How much do they weigh (will my floor over the basement hold them)

The vast majority of gun safes weigh less than 1,500 pounds...even the better ones. When you get to the better safes, they do weigh more, and your floor may not hold it. Once that happens, you're looking at a garage or walk in basement installation (unless you have a slab home).

(3) How can I get one without paying a zillion dollars in freight???

You're going to pay freight regardless. When a manufacturer in California sends their safes to the retailer in New York, the trucking company charges for it. This is usually included in your retailer's cost, and thus reflected in the price.

Typically speaking, freight on a single safe runs between $120 and $300 depending on where the manufacturer is located, and the safe's final destination.

I sell safes locally, and I also ship them all across the country. When you buy locally, you have to consider not only the price of the safe, but the sales tax, and delivery. When you have a safe shipped, you're only paying for the safe and the shipping, which usually brings the safe to the end of your driveway.

I click on the link, and I see what appears to be a $499 typical chain store gun safe. This seems to be similar to the one you ridicule as being worthless sheet metal.

I sell sheetmetal safes also. I don't think the safes are worthless, but I do think they are often expected to perform in impossible ways. These safes do have a use, and will serve many customers well. The difference between me and the Browning dealer, is I will tell you exactly what you're buying before you pay for it.

If I could get one of your real safes that wouldn't buckle my floors for maybe close to the same money, I'd be all over it.

The AMSEC BF line starts at around $1,400 plus shipping. I don't know what your gun store sells, but I'd bet the AMSEC is a better safe.

My no name 10 gauge safes might even be better, and the most expensive of those is $1,100 plus shipping.

I had a chance to get a "real" safe free from a utility company that closed down. How in the world do you move something that weighs 5 tons and put it in a home???

Unless it was a "porta vault" it probably didn't weigh 10,000 pounds. If you needed something like that moved, you call a professional safe mover. Although it's been awhile since I moved a 10,000 pound safe, I am certainly capable of doing so. 10,000 pounds could go into a garage or basement, although the floor may crack over time.
 
Forgive me for being late to this thread, but I am very interested since I have a Liberty gun safe. It was mostly for fire protection and theft protection against the minor players.

My question is:Are you guys saying that this product is easy to get into, and it is not really a safe but a RSC?

I know that professionals can get into anything given the opportunity, but I may be in the market for additional safes in the near future and I need to get the correct product. I may be inheriting G-paws collection that is extensive and would include class III. This collection is well into the 6 fig's.

The liberty sales office had one that a customer owned and experienced a break in attempt. It looked as if they took a gas powered saw and cut most of the door panel. I can tell you the door panel is just a thick as it appears when the door is open. The burglars did not get into the safe, and liberty replaced the safe for free.

My thoughts are that if someone wants to get into the safe they will put a gun to your childs head and say "open the safe".

My plan was to add a sprinkler system, monitored alarm system, pepper spray triggered by alarm, and liberty safes. Am I nuts or is this plenty for all but the willing to kill type?
 
Just get what you need

I see a lot safe sales going on here.And some are great safes..But If you have heads mounted on the wall and a reloadroom ect..Than you need that high $ safes.I have nothing showing that I have guns.So mine I built were people have no idea it's there.Only my wife and I know where is.Made of from a large ss electrical panel bolted from the inside to the floor(concrete)IF found. Woodpanel,drywall,hardware 2x4s and some imagination.It cost me about 100 bucks.
 
OK Lets talk specific's - the link below leads to a chineese import TL 30 Jewery safe $2500 and 2900 lbs. Interior dimensions are 55"H x 24"W X21"D for 16 cu ft. With no shelves I can fit approx. 20 rifles/shotguns in borestores in this safe.

http://www.directsafes.com/burglary-safe.cfm?ProductID=30

It is not a TL30x6 but from comparing the inside to outside dimensions you can figure out how thick it is. It doesn't state the metal thickness (BTW I have heard that thickness is not everything there is also how hard the steel is - 3/16th temperred may be better than 1/4" soft) but it does have about 3" of cement aggregate poured into it. I figure this would be pretty hard to break into. For my neighborhood (avg. middle class) I doubt any thief would have the skill, more likely they would hold a gun on my wife & say open it up or else.

Now I can spend $2500 today but the exterior depth of 31.5" limits where I can put it. It would stick out like a sore thumb anywhere in my house - and I ain't gonna re-model ever again in this lifetime no thank you (theives with jobs are called contractors no offense intended to any honest contractors out there)! I do have a detached 1 car garage that was converted to a studio apt many years ago. It has a raised wood floor but I could cut out a section and fill it with concrete.

Here is a specific question. Can I do better than the safe listed in the link?

I could phone and get the steel gauge but say it is 10 or 12 gauge, it has 3" of cement with more in the door. At 2900 lbs I doubt it will be carried away. The studio apt is now my storage/workshop so there are a fair number of power tools around.

I would rather get a safe that is wider and taller because I will accumulate more (hopefullY :) )...Is this the best for $2500? Can I spend $3000 and get somethin wider but maybe a bit lighter?
 
My question is:Are you guys saying that this product is easy to get into, and it is not really a safe but a RSC?

Yes. A RSC is a UL rating given to a safe that can withstand an attack against a hammer and a long screwdriver for a period of 5 minutes.

Some RSCs are better than others. Some good safes don't waste their time on a UL RSC rating.

This collection is well into the 6 fig's.

Minimum UL TL-15 rating (or E rating), if your insurance company will allow it. They may require a higher rating. We just did an install at a local jewelry store. The insurance company requested two TL-15 units to store $300,000 worth of gems.

Even if your insurance company doesn't have a specific requirment, a TL-15 (E rate) is the lowest acceptable form of burglary resistance to protect that dollar range.

The liberty sales office had one that a customer owned and experienced a break in attempt. It looked as if they took a gas powered saw and cut most of the door panel. I can tell you the door panel is just a thick as it appears when the door is open. The burglars did not get into the safe, and liberty replaced the safe for free.

I'm fairly certain this is another marketing ploy by Liberty. Each Liberty dealer has a safe that experienced "an attempted burglary". As a professional, I can assure you that the safe at the local Liberty dealer here was not attacked with the intent to open the safe.

A gas powered saw would open even the highest end Liberty in less than 2 minutes. The thickest steel in a Liberty door is 1/4". Most of the Liberties use 10 gauge or 12 gauge doors wrapped around gypsum board.

My thoughts are that if someone wants to get into the safe they will put a gun to your childs head and say "open the safe".

That happens. This is why you don't want to advertise that you have a safe. This is also why you want a real safe professional to handle your delivery. They are usually bonded and/or insured, and undergo background checks. Many of the local sporting goods stores use moving companies to deliver these safes. There are a few ex cons working for these companies.

My plan was to add a sprinkler system, monitored alarm system, pepper spray triggered by alarm, and liberty safes. Am I nuts or is this plenty for all but the willing to kill type?

Liberty doesn't make any safe that I'd put more than $15-20K worth of items in.

For my neighborhood (avg. middle class) I doubt any thief would have the skill, more likely they would hold a gun on my wife & say open it up or else.

You're probably right. A sledgehammer will get into a gun safe in short order. A sledgehammer will only scratch the paint on a TL rated safe. The hammer will be broken long before the safe is anywhere near being opened.

Now I can spend $2500 today but the exterior depth of 31.5" limits where I can put it. It would stick out like a sore thumb anywhere in my house - and I ain't gonna re-model ever again in this lifetime no thank you (theives with jobs are called contractors no offense intended to any honest contractors out there)! I do have a detached 1 car garage that was converted to a studio apt many years ago. It has a raised wood floor but I could cut out a section and fill it with concrete.

I'd look at the AMSEC RF6528. It runs around $1,500 more, but it's set up to be a gun safe already.

If you're looking for a more shallow composite bodied tool rated safe, AMSEC makes them 29.5" in depth. You won't find them much more shallow, as the heavy doors make them tipsy.

Also keep in mind, that just like RSC's, some tool rated safes are built better than others. The rating is just a minimum set of requirements, and where one TL-15 may last 16 minutes, another may last 30. The better the safe, the higher the price.

Here is a specific question. Can I do better than the safe listed in the link?

Can you get a better safe? Yes. Can you get a better price? Chinese imports tend to be the lowest priced safes available. Before buying the safe, I would also contact Underwriters Laboratories and check to make sure the UL tag numbers are in fact licensed to that manufacturer. Chinese companies tend to play a little loose on the rules, and may be selling safes with bogus tags (and no burglar rating).

You may also be able to find a good deal on a used safe from a local safe dealer.

I could phone and get the steel gauge but say it is 10 or 12 gauge, it has 3" of cement with more in the door. At 2900 lbs I doubt it will be carried away. The studio apt is now my storage/workshop so there are a fair number of power tools around.

Those composite safes have thicker steel, even when they use the composite "concrete". These safes built out of plate are solid 1" walls, and 1.5" bodies. Whatever the composite safes are made of, they must have the same level of resistance.

I would rather get a safe that is wider and taller because I will accumulate more (hopefullY )...Is this the best for $2500? Can I spend $3000 and get somethin wider but maybe a bit lighter?

Yes, but it won't be a UL Tool rated safe. To get the lighter weight, you have to have lighter construction. Lighter construction = lower rating.
 
So a TL-15 is a tool rating. Does this mean that the metal is "tool Steel" or hardened? Also, do the TL-15 have better internal protections against a skilled thief?

I looked over your website and it was interesting. Some of the higher rated safes "looked" less impressive than say the ft knox. The corner bolts on the Ft Knox is something I have not seen before. I know "looks" are not the standard, so I am trying to figure this stuff out.
 
CB,

Yes I know about the other thread because I started it. I was being fascetious. We got it out of the room we were remodelling real easy as the carpet and padding were thin. The new carpet we had installed was a lot thicker plus we had a real thick pad put in. That made moving it significantly more difficult. But we took it real slow and methodical and managed to get it in where we wanted it. Man that SOB is heavy.
 
If my budget was only $700-1000 (total, delivered or DIY) what would you recomend?

Does it matter? At that level are they all pretty much the "same"?

From this thread and others like it, I am pretty aware of the limitations of RSC's, and I would be placing it in tight quarters with little access to work on the top and sides with tools or saws at least...
 
So a TL-15 is a tool rating. Does this mean that the metal is "tool Steel" or hardened? Also, do the TL-15 have better internal protections against a skilled thief?

It doesn't matter what the safe is made out of. The safe must resist a 15 minute frontal attack from either opening the door or creating a 6 square inch hole. The attack can consist of common mechanical and electric hand tools as well as pressure applying devices.

These types of safes can have better internal protections, but it depends on the safe.

I looked over your website and it was interesting. Some of the higher rated safes "looked" less impressive than say the ft knox. The corner bolts on the Ft Knox is something I have not seen before. I know "looks" are not the standard, so I am trying to figure this stuff out.

Looking secure and being secure are two totally different things. The reasons the gun safes look secure, is because they aren't secure. When a safe is secure, it generally doesn't show it to such a great degree.

Corner bolts are good for resisting pry attacks. They can be useful on a gun safe, as the steel is thin enough to pry. On many of your tool rated safes, the doors simply won't bend, so prying isn't an option. As such, they can do without that type of protection.

If my budget was only $700-1000 (total, delivered or DIY) what would you recomend?

An inexpensive 10 gauge safe, and not the typical inexpensive 12 gauge safes. My e-mail is in my profile. If you drop me a note (including where you're from), I'll give you some suggestions.

Does it matter? At that level are they all pretty much the "same"?

Some are similar, some are better than the others.
 
I appreciate your patient answers. I am surprised that the world of safes is so full of crap.

"The safe must resist a 15 minute frontal attack from either opening the door or creating a 6 square inch hole.":what:

Only 15 minutes! That must mean my poor safe buys me what 5 minutes max! I know the fire protection is a main concern, but good grief. I think all I purchased was a false and now gone sense of security.

You answer about the look of the safe is very interesting. It shows you really have to do your homework on these things.

My future safe needs will have to be met with some sort of a "real" safe coupled with complicated overlaping means to protect the valueables.

I am going to check out my safe to see what rating it has if any. I am curious what those numbers mean.

bama
 
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