Why do you need Depriming pin?

[hdwhit]

After about the 10th decanting pin I broke, I gave up and got a Lee Decapping die. Now, I decap brass as a separate step. Of course you still have to expand the neck after resizing, so that part of the expander/decapper rod needs to be left in place.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

There’s always this
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/sho...plug-pistol/355-x-351-p-exp-plug-auto-pistol/

or this
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/sho...rs/expander-plug-pistol/356-x-352-p-exp-plug/

 

[film495]

yea, but why? If you remove the decapping pin, aren't you supposed to put the die down into a case before finally tightening it down, so - if there is no pin, how do you set up or align the die correctly? If you're concerned about breaking the pins, doesn't that just mean you have a habit of not setting up the die correctly in the first place?

 

[Varminterror]

yea, but why? If you remove the decapping pin, aren't you supposed to put the die down into a case before finally tightening it down, so - if there is no pin, how do you set up or align the die correctly?

The shellholder on the ram, or the shellholder plate align the cases with the dies.

If you're concerned about breaking the pins, doesn't that just mean you have a habit of not setting up the die correctly in the first place?

More likely, they have offset flash holes, contaminants in the flash holes, crimped primers and they’re slamming their press, or sloppy fitting shell holders which allows repetitive misalignment of the case to the die.

Ditching a decapping pin for fear of breaking a pin is non-sequitur. Some kind of decapping pin must be used, and the likelihood of damage doesn’t really get reduced simply by using a universal decapper.

 

[Fishtales]

This is a very interesting discussion. I never knew that reloading could take so many individual steps. Thanks for the education. I have been reloading for more than 40 years with a Lyman Orange Crush and 2 set rifle dies by either Lyman or RCBS. One die deprimes, resizes and expands the neck. The priming station is built into the Crush so that takes care of the primer and after loading powder into the case the second die seats the bullet. When/if the shooter (me) does it right, all my loads (.222 Mag, .270 Win, .300 Savage and .338 Win Mag) have shot one M. O. A. groups. The other steps taken are the normal ones of cleaning the lube off the cases, cleaning the primer hole, trimming the neck, weighing the powder and dumping it in the case.

 

[film495]

The shellholder on the ram, or the shellholder plate align the cases with the dies.



More likely, they have offset flash holes, contaminants in the flash holes, crimped primers and they’re slamming their press, or sloppy fitting shell holders which allows repetitive misalignment of the case to the die.

Ditching a decapping pin for fear of breaking a pin is non-sequitur. Some kind of decapping pin must be used, and the likelihood of damage doesn’t really get reduced simply by using a universal decapper.

right, but I always thought you were supposed to tighen the sizing die down, with a shell raised into the die, to ensure correct alignment - so, you don't break pins off. My ram/shell holders don't have any alignment adjustments that I know of.

 

[Varminterror]

right, but I always thought you were supposed to tighen the sizing die down, with a shell raised into the die, to ensure correct alignment - so, you don't break pins off. My ram/shell holders don't have any alignment adjustments that I know of.

Decapping assemblies have independent depth control to the die body. The sizing die should be adjusted based on proper headspace length, minus desired bump clearance, for your rifle chamber. Then the decapping pin can either be sank to the bottom of a case and lifted to a desired clearance, or simply adjusted according to the instructions included with the die for a target length below the mouth of the die (often ~3/8” below the end of the die).