Why is servicing your own autoloader considered okay but not your own revolver?

[Brewha]

I've heard you have to be careful about knowing which way to turn in order to loosen the ejector rod. Apparently, it isn't always lefty loosey for some models and you risk breaking the knubs on the cylinder that hold the ejector in place if you're not careful. I put some snap caps in when I did mine to keep the torque off of them.

 

[TacticalJanitor]

I've heard you have to be careful about knowing which way to turn in order to loosen the ejector rod. Apparently, it isn't always lefty loosey for some models and you risk breaking the knubs on the cylinder that hold the ejector in place if you're not careful. I put some snap caps in when I did mine to keep the torque off of them.

I think you are correct. My handful of Smith are all left-hand threaded. Google seems to indicate that some older ones were standard-threaded (right-hand-threaded).

 

[sgt127]

Yet a lot of manufacturers are perfectly okay with people replacing parts in their own autoloaders,

Which manufacturer encourage people to replace internal parts in their guns?

And, as a follow up, see how many threads there have been that start with “So, I replaced the muffler Bearing on my Glock with the XP-5000 super bearing and, it’s now having feeding issues!”

And, the most common response:

“Put the factory parts back in…..”

 

[KarateHottie93]

Which manufacturer encourage people to replace internal parts in their guns?

And, as a follow up, see how many threads there have been that start with “So, I replaced the muffler Bearing on my Glock with the XP-5000 super bearing and, it’s now having feeding issues!”

And, the most common response:

“Put the factory parts back in…..”

I never said any of them encourage it. I'm talking about the fact that factory replacement parts for almost any mass produced semi automatic are easy to get...usually straight from the manufacturer.

I don't know of any that will ship or make readily available internal revolver parts for firearms that are currently being produced.

It's about the fact that when something breaks in your new revolver, unless it's a common Smith or Ruger model, you'll likely have no options to make it function again besides ship off for RMA. In many cases, this RMA is paid.

I don't modify handguns outside of sights and grips, and maybe the occasional 357 Sig barrel for my 40 S&W's. I'll also change a 1911's springs for 45 super occasionally, or add a cheap bushing muzzle brake because I think it looks cool. That is the extent of my gun modification. I just like the option to self service something I paid a lot of money for when it's clear that QC issues exist and parts will need frequent replacement. If there were aftermarket parts available for the current production Colt Cobra, I'd give them a try since the originals keep breaking on a gun with well below 1000 rounds.

 

[hemiram]

I've totally taken apart many small frame Dan Wesson revolvers. The allen screws make it simple and hard to mess up. I avoid taking other revolvers down to that level though, I'm just not comfortable doing it, probably because I haven't owned as many of them as I have DW's in the past. My first 15-2 had a clipped mainspring in it from it's original owner and I was getting light primer strikes. Since I carried it for security work, I wasn't about to tolerate an unreliable gun, so I had to pay someone to put the new spring in, or learn how to do it myself. Wasn't hard at all, and the gun went from about 50% fail to fire to zero.

The DW design is simple, so I really can get them as clean as a gun can possibly be. I used to obsess about clean guns, but things change.

 

[StrykerByte.45]

There's nothing that can't be done at home by a smart person with the right tools.

 

[johnjohn]

Looking at the pictures of the disassembled revolvers, if it ain't broke don't "fix "it.

 

[Master Blaster]

The reason they don't want you doing it is simple: Liability
If they send you the part and you bugger something up resulting in a negligent discharge with injury you could sue them.
They have no idea if you have any skill to replace the part and you could make the gun unsafe or cause other things to break.
Its also possible that there is another problem causing the springs to break and it will need to be fixed also.

 

[doubleh]

what gun screw drivers you people are using? I like the one that comes in the black box with bits.

Grace for some revolvers. Brownell's with bits for everything else.

 

[Ethan Verity]

My guess is because

A. It's too easy to bugger up the side plate screws if you don't have a proper fitting hollow-ground screwdriver.

B. If you don't know any better, too many people will try to pry off the side plate and bend/scratch it.

C. People will want to cycle the action with the side plate off, thus putting uneven pressure on the pins and possibly weakening them.

D. If the side plate isn't fully seated on reassembly, the pins will not be properly supported and will be stressed over time.

Semi-autos are pretty straight forward, usually just roll pins and major parts drop-in.

There is more opportunity to F-something up with a revolver, rather than a semi-auto. Still, it's not that hard for anyone who is willing to learn beforehand and get the proper tools.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Grace for some revolvers. Brownell's with bits for everything else.

I bought Grace and I didn’t buy the right kind. do they make the wide flats?

 

[UncleEd]

The reason they don't want you doing it is simple: Liability
If they send you the part and you bugger something up resulting in a negligent discharge with injury you could sue them.
They have no idea if you have any skill to replace the part and you could make the gun unsafe or cause other things to break.
Its also possible that there is another problem causing the springs to break and it will need to be fixed also.

This a dozen times over! Even a hundred times over.

But wait, wait! All forum members here have the skill
to tear apart and put back together again a revolver..
We know this and the firearms makers should know
this as well.

 

[doubleh]

I bought Grace and I didn’t buy the right kind. do they make the wide flats?

I don't know what they offer today. Mine are a years ago birthday gift. I have found a few few screws that have too narrow slots for them to fit.

 

[JN01]

There's nothing that can't be done at home by a smart person with the right tools.

I have a hammer and a Dremel, does that count?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Exactly what do you mean when you say "servicing"?

I taught myself to take a single action revolver apart about 50 years ago or so. Can almost do it blind folded these days.

Double action revolvers are a different story. Most do not need any servicing. About the only thing I like to do with a really old Smith is take it apart to flush out hardened old oil. Other than that, none of my double action revolvers need any "servicing".

Here is a good example, a 38 M&P that left the factory in the 1930s. It had a good bit of gunk inside, so I disassembled it to clean everything out, then lightly relubricated it.

I learned to take a Smith apart sitting next to an expert gunsmith. He took the time to show me how to do it. There was no such thing as you tube in those days.

Even so, I do keep my eyes open when taking a Smith apart, they are a bit more complicated than a single action revolver.

Notice I did not disassemble the cylinder assembly. There is really no need, and it is easy to bend or break something. The extractor star is a separate part, brazed to the rod. Too easy to damage the weld.






Smith and Wesson went from right hand extractor rod threads to left hand threads on most models around 1961. The reason was the direction of rotation of the cylinder could tend to loosen the rod over time. By changing to a left hand thread on the extractor rod the extractor rod tends to tighten itself as the cylinder rotates, rather than loosening.

This is when the Colt guys will start telling us Smiths rotate the wrong direction.



This is my set of gunsmith screwdrivers. Brownells Magna Tips.






I gave up on the Chapman screw drivers a long time ago. Brownells are guaranteed. If you manage to bend or break one they will send you a new one free of charge. Plus, look how many Brownells tips I have. One for every possible need. Not so with the Chapmans.






I don't shoot semi-autos enough to try to take them apart. I have sent the recoil spring plug flying across the room too many times. Perhaps if I did it more often I would get used to it and not need to stock so many replacements.

 

[UncleEd]

I have a hammer and a Dremel, does that count?

Ditch the Dremel. All you ever need is a heavy hammer
and a large toothed file.

 

[Hugger-4641]

Some people think certain tasks have some kind of voodoo about them and require a specialist....
Revolvers, differentials and automatic transmissions come to mind.

I agree about revolvers, but some transmissions have springs that can injure or kill you if you don't remove/install them properly.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I agree about revolvers, but some transmissions have springs that can injure or kill you if you don't remove/install them properly.

The key is to have done research and have some idea of what you're doing before you tear into it. Exploded parts diagrams are a lifesaver

 

[Mark_Mark]

I agree about revolvers, but some transmissions have springs that can injure or kill you if you don't remove/install them properly.

a spring can kill you?!?! wow

 

[Hugger-4641]

a spring can kill you?!?! wow

Yes, IRCC, the TH400/4L60 and 4L65 GM were two examples.
I don't know of any revolver springs that can hurt you, but you sure can loose them or install them wrong.

 

[Riomouse911]

Yes, IRCC, the TH400/4L60 and 4L65 GM were two examples.
I don't know of any revolver springs that can hurt you, but you sure can loose them or install them wrong.

A 12# trigger return spring to the eye will turn you into Ol’ Squint in a flash.

I am not a gunsmith, nor do I consider myself a real expert at working on guns, but I did take armorer’s courses taught by Bob Chavez at Lassen Community College over the years for Glock, 1911/2011, AR-15, 870/1100, SIG P series and S&W revolvers. Other courses I took elsewhere were for Mini-14 and Ruger SP/GP/SRH. I learned by myself about the Dan Wessons, Blackhawk/Single Six and CZ-75-97 series. I have zero experience on Colt SA’s and only watched Bob as he tinkered with the innards of my DA Colt Officers Model .38. (It had a slight hitch revolving to to charge holes. All is good now. ) These guns I leave alone because I know little about them.

Most autos are somewhat easy to take down. A few are not easy to reassemble properly, but most are not tough once you are shown how by an expert and use patience. 1911’s and other hammer guns have some intricate parts that must go together right to work properly, but they aren’t impossible. Best part is unless you force it, if you put something in wrong it won’t break…it just won’t fit or work correctly until you do it right.

S&W revolvers have a few areas where a novice can get into trouble and damage the gun. Proper screwdrivers (Brownells for me) and a correct side plate removal routine is one.

There is also a frame mounted stud that captures the rebound spring as it sits inside the rebound slide. Using that stud as a point to lever a screwdriver while removing or installing the rebound spring can easily bend or break the stud off. (Alloy airweights are very susceptible to this.) The factory should be able to repair it, but it isn’t cheap and the repair will often show on the frame on the opposite side of the cylinder release. The trigger pivot stud is another one that can bend if not treated nicely.

The bolt stop and spring assembly is a real challenge to get in correctly sometimes, as is the tiny rebounding firing pin spring/frame mounted firing pin in newer Sniths. Guys will try to jimmy these into place sometimes, which usually sends springs (and curse words) flying.

The Dan Wesson bolt stop and spring reassembly was a bit of a challenge for me, the Ruger GP’s are simple even if you pull all the pins from the trigger assembly and need to reassemble.

Taking most revolvers down is not rocket science, but there are some parts that really do require a bit of knowledge and skill to put back together correctly and not break little parts.

Stay safe.

 

[GRIZ22]

I am of the school of thought there is no reason to totally disassemble any gun unless it is broken. Normal fieldstripping for cleaning is all one usually needs to do. You don't periodically disassemble the engine or trans in your car.

I've experienced quite a few guns that have taken a total dunking in water. Complete disassembly is not required. This is a job for WD40. This is what it was designed to do. Displace water. Douse the gun liberally with WD40. Then blow out the WD40 with Gunscrubber or Brake Kleen. After the Gunscrubber is evaporated lubricate as needed.

 

[BBarn]

I do essentially all the cleaning and repair on my firearms. In general I find cleaning and minor repairs easier on the autoloaders. Ruger New Models are fairly easy except for the gate detent spring on some particular guns.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

When I look at my autoloader pistols (Ruger MkII, Numrich AO 1911A1 clone, H&K USP, CZ-52), I basically think "interchangeable parts" drop in and go.

When I look at my revolvers (Ruger Security Six, two snub J-frame clones) I think timing issues and parts replaced may need fitting.

 

[Palladan44]

A man's got to know his limitations.

For me:

Field stripping any semi auto i own- YES
Taking the crane retention screw off a revolver for easier cleaning of the cylinder- YES

Opening up a revolver further usually means something needs the fairly unusual "deep" cleansing or something doesn't work right. If it's the deep cleansing it needs- Yes, I can open up a Colt, S&W or Ruger Revolver to deep clean it, and reassemble......
If something is broken and needs fixing- Forget it..... I leave that up to the Smith's at the respective mfr. to do that.....

I'm 0/4 on fixing my own revolver innards problems. Matter of fact, I've converted a perfect working revolver into one that doesn't by opening er up. I just don't do it anymore.