It may or may not help you depending on what you are doing. If you are just hitting steel or punching holes in paper at the range, don't bother.
If you are fine tuning for sub moa accuraccy or verifying speed vs bullet expansion in ballistics gel, then it's a valuable tool.
Even if you are just paper punching w/ pistols it’s a valuable tool when working up loads. It keeps you from going into over pressure range if you verify velocity as you try your loads — if velocity is crazy high and is unexpected, then there is a problem.
Tuning a load for a particular gun is easier with a chronograph.
Hmm...interesting. I almost exclusively shoot my rifles. I almost only use my handguns to allow time for my rifles to cool down!
I've been reloading for about 2 1/2 years and have exclusively been using Accurate 2460/Lake City ammo that I reload after having shot the lot (125 rds.)
CCI 200 primers/Cheapest bullets I can find on the net or at my local gun store (168gr/150gr.)
However, as of the last 6 months or so, I ran out of powder/primers. I am re-using my primers with a primer powder combination I bought off the net. And I have acquired powders that I have never used until recently.
So if I am understanding you correctly, a chronograph could help me find the "node" that'll work the best sooner? And help me identify potential over pressure?
And… “I’ve got too many toys already” said no one ever!
see the post below from @bersaguy
View attachment 1022135
bersaguyMember
I use the chronograph as a sanity check. For years I loaded without one, and (staying within published load data) used felt recoil, and how the brass flew to make sure I wasn't getting too weak or too hot. Then picked out the load that had the best accuracy and used that. But, I was also only using one powder and usually only one bullet for each caliber. When I started getting more powders and different projectiles, I bought a chronograph to make sure what I was expecting was what I was getting. For example, if I start seeing 800+fps out of my TCP (3" .380) with 100g Berry's loading Titegroup...I need to stop there. Early on I had loaded some that sure felt hot, but wasn't sure how much so. Later I chronographed them, and they were over 900fps. I ended up breaking those down. Other times, I've tried matching factory loads. I have some 115 gold dots loaded up that perfectly match the factory Speer stuff. Is a chronograph absolutely necessary? No, but it sure opens a window into the hobby and adds a new dimension of understanding and, for me, fun. Some powder and projectile combinations like to go fast, some have the best accuracy at lower velocities. My 5" 1911 loading 230g FMJ with titegroup give me, well, tite groups at about 760fps, while Bullseye with the same bullet tightens up at around 825. In 9mm, 115g JHPs with Power Pistol have excellent accuracy at 1260fps, with 115 FMJ I find Bullseye performs beautifully running at 1150. I could have gotten there without the chronograph, but it gives me a concrete data point to work with. Also let's me know from lot to lot how consistently I'm loading.
They are a tool like many others, great for doping the load to make a range card/drop chart or confirming your OCD loading practices are paying dividends. Lot to lot variances in powder are recognized etc. but they are not a necessity.
Just my 2 cents
J
It’s just another tool in the box. I loaded for more than 2 decades without one and now have a number of them one for home, one at the farm and one that stays in the truck. I probably still wouldn’t have one if it were not for gun games but they do tell you things you don’t know without one.
I don’t chase numbers on the screen or get bent out of shape when data from test barrels exceeds my real world application of the data. If your that type of guy, you might be better off without one.
Unless the numbers are what your after, regardless of accuracy.
Don get me wrong, they are useful, just not the end all.
However, you use them to “calculate” and later loose sleep at night once you come to find that impacts on targets at different distances don’t match the calculations. It will have done you more harm than good.
Chronographs tell you have fast your bullets (or other projectiles) are going.
Uses I have found for knowing how fast my bullets are going:
-Long range ballistics rely on knowing your muzzle velocity along with a good BC value for your bullet.
-With a good chronograph you can even calculate your bullets BC if you don't have a good one.
-Several of the sport I shoot have minimum power factors (recoil) levels to compete. Measuring my bullet speed allows me to calculate my power factor and ensures I arrive with ammunition that will make the required power factor.
-Used in conjunction with Quickloads (Internal ballistics software, Gordons Reloading Tool can be used similarly) you can work up loads (carefully) for combinations of bullets/powders/cartridges that have little or no published data (not for the novice but with experience can be done).
My experience is published load data is not as accurate as what my rifle is shooting. Using a chronograph shows you exactly what the primer, powder, bullet, rifle, and environment are doing. Shooting on a summer day when it is 90 is different than winter when it is 10. Your chronograph will show you.
Not in my experience. Get 3 different load data sources for the same bullet and powder charge and compair the velocity and energy.
I use published load data as a starting point and work up my loads.
With all of the above perfect you have solved the puzzle.What are the causes for a round to have a different muzzle velocity than another round if everything else is the same.
Powder charge is spot on for every round.
Primers are identical to one another.
Cases are equal in weight and volume
Bullet weights are equal.
Environmental conditions are constant.
Rifle conditions are consistent.
And....?
The barrel length and twist rate will effect the velocity.
What rifle are you shooting trying to put 5 in 1. What load are you using. Bullet weight and powder charge.