Wolff Reduced Power Springs
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JohnBT
Member
From what I've seen over the years they work, but the only time I ordered one it made the pull on my Ruger Police Service Six heavier. I knew it came with a good trigger, but I learned that it came with an exceptionally good trigger. Put it in, tried the trigger, measured the pull, took it out.
I'd always wondered why people kept asking me who did the trigger job and then looked at me funny when I said Ruger made it that way.
John
I'd always wondered why people kept asking me who did the trigger job and then looked at me funny when I said Ruger made it that way.
John
Using reduced tension springs will always improve the way an action feels.
But it may also make that action unreliable under any and all conditions.
Gun manufacturers use the springs they do to insure that no matter what, when you pull the trigger the gun will go BANG!
When one changes the springs for lighter ones they may get some unintended consecuences - maybe not at first, but later when the springs take a set, or the cylinder develops end-shake. What they are doing is trading the extra reliability factor the manufacturer built in, for a lighter trigger pull. What feels good now may cause some serious problems later.
If your revolver is a big-boy toy, fooling with the springs might be acceptable, but if it's a personal defensive weapon you'd better think twice.
But it may also make that action unreliable under any and all conditions.
Gun manufacturers use the springs they do to insure that no matter what, when you pull the trigger the gun will go BANG!
When one changes the springs for lighter ones they may get some unintended consecuences - maybe not at first, but later when the springs take a set, or the cylinder develops end-shake. What they are doing is trading the extra reliability factor the manufacturer built in, for a lighter trigger pull. What feels good now may cause some serious problems later.
If your revolver is a big-boy toy, fooling with the springs might be acceptable, but if it's a personal defensive weapon you'd better think twice.
Yes and no... 
I use Wolff standard weight and heavier springs all of the time. They make a high quality product, and supply a lot of springs to the firearms industry. I have also use some less than standard springs on guns that serve no purpose in a weapon's context. For example, Single Action Army Colt's & clones.
But I use factory, or factory standard plus in anything that might be a weapon.
I have on many occasions examined a revolver (and a few pistols) that weren't 100% reliable in going BANG! and usually found lightened springs of one kind or another involved - sometimes in combination with other problems.
I am well aware that a lot of folks have gone to light springs with apparently complete satisfaction, but occasionally one pops up that says, "Well it was working fine until......"
In my book, getting too close to the line is not wise in a weapon, but obviously others think differently.
Also, a smoother action often feels lighter, and if the "smoothing" is done correctly there is no reliability issue. However if the work is done incorrectly you may end up with ruined lockwork, and an expensive repair bill.
When it comes to action work on a weapon, a true professional or factory service facility is usually worth the money spent.
I use Wolff standard weight and heavier springs all of the time. They make a high quality product, and supply a lot of springs to the firearms industry. I have also use some less than standard springs on guns that serve no purpose in a weapon's context. For example, Single Action Army Colt's & clones.
But I use factory, or factory standard plus in anything that might be a weapon.
I have on many occasions examined a revolver (and a few pistols) that weren't 100% reliable in going BANG! and usually found lightened springs of one kind or another involved - sometimes in combination with other problems.
I am well aware that a lot of folks have gone to light springs with apparently complete satisfaction, but occasionally one pops up that says, "Well it was working fine until......"
In my book, getting too close to the line is not wise in a weapon, but obviously others think differently.
Also, a smoother action often feels lighter, and if the "smoothing" is done correctly there is no reliability issue. However if the work is done incorrectly you may end up with ruined lockwork, and an expensive repair bill.
When it comes to action work on a weapon, a true professional or factory service facility is usually worth the money spent.
col_tapiocca
Member
I get one for my S&W 686 few months ago. No big different from factorys one noticed.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
In some guns, they perform miracles!
The early S&W 317 .22 comes to mind.
They at first came with what was called a 12 pound hammer spring, but which in fact was probably well over 20, and a rebound spring that was "White-Knuckle" strong!
I'm not sure what it was, because I had nothing in the shop that went high enough to measure it.
Wolf came to the rescue with a spring pack that had a 9 pound hammer spring and 13, 14, and 15 pound rebound springs.
Most 317's I worked on would work just fine with the lightest 13 lb rebound spring, and never ever mis-fired with the 9 lb hammer spring.
It made an unusable DA pull into one as nice as any other J-Frame S&W.
rcmodel
The early S&W 317 .22 comes to mind.
They at first came with what was called a 12 pound hammer spring, but which in fact was probably well over 20, and a rebound spring that was "White-Knuckle" strong!
I'm not sure what it was, because I had nothing in the shop that went high enough to measure it.
Wolf came to the rescue with a spring pack that had a 9 pound hammer spring and 13, 14, and 15 pound rebound springs.
Most 317's I worked on would work just fine with the lightest 13 lb rebound spring, and never ever mis-fired with the 9 lb hammer spring.
It made an unusable DA pull into one as nice as any other J-Frame S&W.
rcmodel
I almost vote for "Great Improvement", but decided to vote "Good Improvement", only, instead. Here's why:
I didn't use Wolff, but some other name-brand (Wilson Combat) on, what was then, my new S&W 642. I probably had the reduced-effort springs in there for ~2 years. One day, I went to the range and found my trigger didn't return without me manually pushing it back into place....not good, as this is my daily on-duty BUG.
I switched back to my stock springs and never looked back. But now, with the stock springs, I no longer noticed the stock trigger pull as being difficult. I believe, with 1K-2K trigger pulls, the action smoothed out and my trigger finger got stronger. Granted, by then, my gun's action needed some cleaning & lubrication, but the stock "rebound slide spring" was better able to return the trigger, even when a bit dirty.
I didn't use Wolff, but some other name-brand (Wilson Combat) on, what was then, my new S&W 642. I probably had the reduced-effort springs in there for ~2 years. One day, I went to the range and found my trigger didn't return without me manually pushing it back into place....not good, as this is my daily on-duty BUG.
I switched back to my stock springs and never looked back. But now, with the stock springs, I no longer noticed the stock trigger pull as being difficult. I believe, with 1K-2K trigger pulls, the action smoothed out and my trigger finger got stronger. Granted, by then, my gun's action needed some cleaning & lubrication, but the stock "rebound slide spring" was better able to return the trigger, even when a bit dirty.
So which reduces more of the weight in trigger pull the reduced power mainspring or the reduced power trigger return spring. How much would the reduced power mainspring help the cocking of the gun and double action trigger pull. Has anyone had problems with a Wolff reduced power mainspring (light firing pin strikes, etc.).
Thanks
Thanks
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Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
Great Improvement~! 
While you have not been specific, I take it that this concerns S&W revolvers. If so:
They don't have a "trigger return spring," as such. They have a "rebound slide spring." The spring in question not only pushes the trigger forward, but also rebounds (retracts) the hammer, and does so against the tension of the main spring. At the factory these springs are balanced so that each does its function correctly. If one starts simply switching springs to get a better trigger pull they may get some unexpected consequences.
Obviously, if you lighten the hammer spring the impact of the firing pin on the primer will also be lighter. If you get a batch of hard primers you may get some that don't go off, especially in double action, because the hammer's arc is shorter then it is in the single action mode.
The Old Fuff will now leave and go do his own business.
They don't have a "trigger return spring," as such. They have a "rebound slide spring." The spring in question not only pushes the trigger forward, but also rebounds (retracts) the hammer, and does so against the tension of the main spring. At the factory these springs are balanced so that each does its function correctly. If one starts simply switching springs to get a better trigger pull they may get some unexpected consequences.
Obviously, if you lighten the hammer spring the impact of the firing pin on the primer will also be lighter. If you get a batch of hard primers you may get some that don't go off, especially in double action, because the hammer's arc is shorter then it is in the single action mode.
The Old Fuff will now leave and go do his own business.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It would also help if you could be more specific on which model S&W you are asking about.
The J-Frame guns use a fixed rate coil mainspring, and all the larger K, L, and N frame guns use a flat mainspring with a strain screw adjustment.
Regardless, the J-frames often benefit more from a Wolf spring kit then the larger flat-spring guns.
And a lot depends on the age of the gun in question.
Earlier J-frames usually had lighter, smoother triggers then the ones being made right now.
This is probably due to the earlier hand fitting, and the later Lawyer inspired heavier triggers.
rcmodel
The J-Frame guns use a fixed rate coil mainspring, and all the larger K, L, and N frame guns use a flat mainspring with a strain screw adjustment.
Regardless, the J-frames often benefit more from a Wolf spring kit then the larger flat-spring guns.
And a lot depends on the age of the gun in question.
Earlier J-frames usually had lighter, smoother triggers then the ones being made right now.
This is probably due to the earlier hand fitting, and the later Lawyer inspired heavier triggers.
rcmodel
Cosmoline
Member
I found good improvement in the SP-101. With time the springs wore into place and the pull was nicely smooth. I used the mid-range weight not the lightest.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
O.K.
Here is what you need.
http://gunsprings.com/Revolver/SmithWesson_RvNF.html#S&WKLN
Get the POWER RIB SHOOTER'S PAK, the Type-1 or Type-2 depending on your intended use.
Clean & lube all internals with GunSlick grease, or other high quality action lube grease, and install the spring kit, using the next to lightest rebound spring that reliably returns the trigger 100% every time.
If you have never had a S&W that far apart, there are a few tricks & one tool that will make the job go much more smoothly.
I suggest the Kuhnhausen S&W book:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...805&title=Jerry+Kuhnhausen+SHOP+MANUALS/BOOKS
You will also need a rebound spring compression tool if you value your Gun & Your Sanity:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=774&title=S&W+REBOUND+SLIDE+SPRING+TOOL
rcmodel
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