Would getting a more expensive AR-15 be worth it?

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Suit yourself I guess. Your not going to remove case hardening with 1500 grit wet paper and I leave plenty of sear engagement and spring tension to prevent an unintended sear disengagement and I also drop and bump test them when I’m done.
Are you certain the depth of the remaining hardened surface is adequate? One problem with the early Rock River two stage trigger was that the hardened surface all too often was too thin and wore through with use. This lead to doubling, tripling and even runaways.

The issue with the Remington triggers is a mechanical one which causes a part miss alignment that causes the sear to be held only by the safety and not the trigger. This is impossible in a properly functioning AR15 because the trigger is forced into engagement with the sear by the camming action of the selector switch. There is an increased chance of bump fire with a lighter AR trigger so it’s best to learn to ride the reset.
The point is, unintended discharges have the potential of being more dangerous with a self loading rifle than a manually operated rifle. It makes no sense to modify a self loading rifle trigger in such a fashion that makes it even more susceptible to discharging unintentionally.

It's your rifle, it's your money. But give thought to the mods you're advocating and the possible consequences if they aren't performed correctly and in light of better options, if the risks are worth it.
 
Are you certain the depth of the remaining hardened surface is adequate? One problem with the early Rock River two stage trigger was that the hardened surface all too often was too thin and wore through with use. This lead to doubling, tripling and even runaways.


The point is, unintended discharges have the potential of being more dangerous with a self loading rifle than a manually operated rifle. It makes no sense to modify a self loading rifle trigger in such a fashion that makes it even more susceptible to discharging unintentionally.

It's your rifle, it's your money. But give thought to the mods you're advocating and the possible consequences if they aren't performed correctly and in light of better options, if the risks are worth it.

In order for it to double or triple the sear ledge would have to be severely worn away or the reset hook engagement would need to be grossly miss adjusted. The relationship between the sear engagement and the reset hook engagement need to be checked when doing AR trigger work, or even when installing a basic mill spec trigger group. Seriously now there is a difference between stoning a sear properly and bubba taking a grinder to it. If you know what you are doing it is just as safe as a drop in trigger group. If you don't understand how the parts of the trigger group interact don't mess with them. If you were here in person I would hand you one of my lowers and a rubber mallet and tell you to go to town on it. I already have.
 
In order for it to double or triple the sear ledge would have to be severely worn away or the reset hook engagement would need to be grossly miss adjusted. The relationship between the sear engagement and the reset hook engagement need to be checked when doing AR trigger work, or even when installing a basic mill spec trigger group. Seriously now there is a difference between stoning a sear properly and bubba taking a grinder to it. If you know what you are doing it is just as safe as a drop in trigger group. If you don't understand how the parts of the trigger group interact don't mess with them. If you were here in person I would hand you one of my lowers and a rubber mallet and tell you to go to town on it. I already have.
Regardless of what needs to happen, doubling, tripling and runaways from worn sears have happened. This is how the RR two stage earned its poor reputation. There was a gunsmith people were sending there triggers to (I forget who) that stoned the sears smooth. It wasn't long until those triggers were wearing and having the same problem.

I'm all for doing your own work on things. I'm all for letting folks figure things out for themselves. You can't learn unless you try something. If this works for you and you understand the risks that's fine. But there are better, more reliable ways to improving the AR trigger.

G two stage triggers are costly, but you know what the best part about them is? They give the shooter a crisp, clean break without giving up any margin of safety because they don't shorten the pre-ignition travel. They just change the the pull weight profile. That's why I'm gonna try the Sionics two stage. It's similar in design to the G SSA trigger but less money. Reportedly, the Sionics trigger has a better reset point (better as in it's closer to what I prefer), but I won't know till I actually try it.
 
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I liked the Sionics trigger that I tried in the store. Told a buddy about them and he bought one and when I assembled his the ambi safety Sionics included in the LPK wobbled significantly in his Aero lower.

Did the same thing in two different Anderson lowers. Called them up and after some wrangling they sent me a single sided one. It did the same thing. Finally threw one of mine in there from an AR I hadn’t been shooting in awhile just to get him running and bought myself a Troy ambi.

The trigger is nice, but I wasn’t really impressed with their customer service. Real attitude problem.
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Nice trigger finally, but I’ll stick with Geissele or La Rue.
 
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