sensei
Member
I have a chance to pick up some R - P brass REALLY cheap. Looking for reloading experiences with it.
Your opinions, Please.
Thanks,
sensei
Your opinions, Please.
Thanks,
sensei
your opinion of R-P brass?
- Thread starter sensei
- Start date
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Arub
Member
I have not had any problems with it. I have reloaded .357magnum, .40S&W and .45auto.
Cactus
Member
I'm not a fan or R-P brass. I bought 100 pieces of 35 Whelen brass and I had over 25 split necks when I sized them for the FIRST time. I won't use it unless I have NO other option.
Unisaw
Member
I'm not a fan of R-P brass in .45ACP. It seems to have very little neck tension.
Clark
Member
In 9mm, RP is my favorite.
In bottle necked rifle brass, I would rather get Lapua or even Win first.
But in 8mm Mauser, there is no Lapua, and Win is only avaiable part of the year.
So sometimes I get Remington rifle brass. It's ok.
In bottle necked rifle brass, I would rather get Lapua or even Win first.
But in 8mm Mauser, there is no Lapua, and Win is only avaiable part of the year.
So sometimes I get Remington rifle brass. It's ok.
Don't mess with R-P in 40. It is thin walled no bullet tension having garbage unless you have the EGW U-die.
In everything else it seems to be OK. I have noticed a higher than average split rate in 45 Colt but testing is still underway.
I guess I would say skip it in the autoloading pistol calibers, and don't seek it out or pay more for it in revolver calibers. Starline is better in all cases that I use, 9mm, 38, 357, 40, 45 acp, 45 Colt, 44 mag, and probably something I forget right now. Starline is also cheaper. Win win.
In everything else it seems to be OK. I have noticed a higher than average split rate in 45 Colt but testing is still underway.
I guess I would say skip it in the autoloading pistol calibers, and don't seek it out or pay more for it in revolver calibers. Starline is better in all cases that I use, 9mm, 38, 357, 40, 45 acp, 45 Colt, 44 mag, and probably something I forget right now. Starline is also cheaper. Win win.
Smokey Joe
Member
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- Jan 2, 2003
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- 2,617
R-P brass; welll...
SenseiÑ(that means "teacher" does it not?)ÑRe: R-P brass for pistol, my experience is with a .357 mag revolver. Started with .38 Sp brass by R-P, the pistol thought those were OK for target loads, but it liked .357 mag cases better. Tried R-P cases, and again, they were OK, worked well, no mechanical failures or safety issues. But how was I to know what lot of brass each one came from? So I bought a lot of Starline .357 cases. Those work really well. The gun likes 'em better for target work, and also for hi-velocity hunting rounds with big honkin' bullets and heavy crimping. Of course, I keep the cases for the hunting rounds separate.
Re: R-P brass for rifle: My sporterized Springfield .30-'06 likes R-P brass better than any other. I sort the cases as carefully as possible, and keep them in separate lots, and only neck-size them. They last many years. I have another '06 that prefers Win cases.
In my experience you have to try a number of variables to find what your own gun likes best.
If the R-P brass is really cheap, get it; it'll probably work fine if it is in good condition. You may, however, discover that your particular guns with your particular load, perform better with another manufacturer's brass. But you have to start somewhere!
SenseiÑ(that means "teacher" does it not?)ÑRe: R-P brass for pistol, my experience is with a .357 mag revolver. Started with .38 Sp brass by R-P, the pistol thought those were OK for target loads, but it liked .357 mag cases better. Tried R-P cases, and again, they were OK, worked well, no mechanical failures or safety issues. But how was I to know what lot of brass each one came from? So I bought a lot of Starline .357 cases. Those work really well. The gun likes 'em better for target work, and also for hi-velocity hunting rounds with big honkin' bullets and heavy crimping. Of course, I keep the cases for the hunting rounds separate.
Re: R-P brass for rifle: My sporterized Springfield .30-'06 likes R-P brass better than any other. I sort the cases as carefully as possible, and keep them in separate lots, and only neck-size them. They last many years. I have another '06 that prefers Win cases.
In my experience you have to try a number of variables to find what your own gun likes best.
If the R-P brass is really cheap, get it; it'll probably work fine if it is in good condition. You may, however, discover that your particular guns with your particular load, perform better with another manufacturer's brass. But you have to start somewhere!
sensei
Member
It's .357 mag. (nickel)
.45 acp (brass)
Yes, sensei means teacher.
sensei
.45 acp (brass)
Yes, sensei means teacher.
sensei
BluesBear
member
Having commercially reloaded over two million rounds of .45acp, 9mm, .38super, 380, 41mag, 44mag, .45colt, 44-40, .38sp & .357mag, and having used Remington brass for over half of that I have found no problems with any of the unplated brass cases.
The nickled cases, in any caliber by any manufacturer, however, tend to work harden and develop mouth cracks sooner than comparable brass cases since nickle itself is somewhat brittle.
What I used to do was to sort out all of the nickled ones and dump them in my Thumlers Model B tumbler for 3 days. Sometimes 4. This removes part of the nickle and seems to eliminate the neck cracking. If you leave them in for a week it'll remove amost all of the nickle.
The nickled cases, in any caliber by any manufacturer, however, tend to work harden and develop mouth cracks sooner than comparable brass cases since nickle itself is somewhat brittle.
What I used to do was to sort out all of the nickled ones and dump them in my Thumlers Model B tumbler for 3 days. Sometimes 4. This removes part of the nickle and seems to eliminate the neck cracking. If you leave them in for a week it'll remove amost all of the nickle.
JPM70535
Member
Ditto what Bluebear said. Never saw any difference in brass from one maker to another. Major difference is between brass and nickel. There are many more split nickel cases than brass. Sort them carefully and there is no problem.
The following is an opinion, please feel free to disagree.
Remington 45 acp brass is measurably thinner, usually measurably shorter and appears to lose what little elasticity it has after one or two firings. Course, a lot depends on what bullets and what power level you want to reload to. It is particulary difficult to load this brass with jacketed bullets (especially 230 fmj) and not have setback issues, when using full power (or slightly higher) recoil springs. The brass does appear to last.
The oft repeated test for satisfactiory bullet tension is pushing on wood table top. A much more realistic test is to seat bullet in case with no powder or primer, and let slide slam it in from locked position. Setback matters using fullpower loads.
Lee undersized dies are available directly from Lee, and the lady who answered the phone said they are available in any straight walled pistol case.
The Remington 38 special cases appear just right for mild swaged 148 wc's, as the inner diameter is slightly wider.
Remington 45 acp brass is measurably thinner, usually measurably shorter and appears to lose what little elasticity it has after one or two firings. Course, a lot depends on what bullets and what power level you want to reload to. It is particulary difficult to load this brass with jacketed bullets (especially 230 fmj) and not have setback issues, when using full power (or slightly higher) recoil springs. The brass does appear to last.
The oft repeated test for satisfactiory bullet tension is pushing on wood table top. A much more realistic test is to seat bullet in case with no powder or primer, and let slide slam it in from locked position. Setback matters using fullpower loads.
Lee undersized dies are available directly from Lee, and the lady who answered the phone said they are available in any straight walled pistol case.
The Remington 38 special cases appear just right for mild swaged 148 wc's, as the inner diameter is slightly wider.
BluesBear
member
Not trying to disagree zeke, but perhaps a slightly smaller expanding die plug or a tighter taper crimp die would solve those difficulties?
stans
Member
I have used R-P brass and it is ok. That being said, it is not my favorite brand. I prefer Winchester or Starline for most of my reloading. Nickel plated brass does tend to be on the brittle side and I usually avoid it if possible.
BlueBear, I have had the same trouble as zeke in 40 S&W with Remington brass. My expander plug is .397 after I got done with it, and I could increase crimp until I mangled the bullet and still not get the tension I was looking for. I demand that it take several chamberings from slidelock without moving a bullet, and in my G22 that is over 100 pounds of pressure when you push the bullet against a table.
The U-die takes care of it, as does virtually any other brass in standard dies. Current R-P brass is thin and cheap. I suspect they have made some recent "advancements" in making the brass that use less material and subsequently lower costs for them.
The U-die takes care of it, as does virtually any other brass in standard dies. Current R-P brass is thin and cheap. I suspect they have made some recent "advancements" in making the brass that use less material and subsequently lower costs for them.
I have the same comment as several here. IMX, R-P brass is thinner than other brands. That fact is obvious when resizing it. I can tell an R-P case from a Starline, Winchester or Federal by feel when sizing. The R-P will size much easier. It's almost like trying to size an already sized case. The walls are measurably thinner and the purchase on a bullet, especially jacketed ones (they're usually one or two thou less in diameter), is not as strong. I don't feel that changing the sizing or expander die or the crimp just so that one particular case brand will then come up to specs is the answer.
Now, having said that, I do use R-P brass for reloading, but they don't get a very high number of reloads before being tossed as opposed to Starline which keeps going ... and going ... and going ...
Now, having said that, I do use R-P brass for reloading, but they don't get a very high number of reloads before being tossed as opposed to Starline which keeps going ... and going ... and going ...
I shot PPC matches for several years, my practice brass was mixed, but I only used 38 special R-P brass for matches, it worked great, it was rare to see a split neck on a case. Keep in mind this was with mildly loaded 38 spl wadcutters.
Nickel plated brass in general is a pain. I couldn't get any life out of nickeled brass regardless of what brand it was, neck splitting on nickel is common, I think the plating process makes the brass brittle. IMHO nickeled brass was good for one thing only, carrying on a duty belt, brass cases don't like leather, they get corroded, nickel works fine for that purpose.
Nickel plated brass in general is a pain. I couldn't get any life out of nickeled brass regardless of what brand it was, neck splitting on nickel is common, I think the plating process makes the brass brittle. IMHO nickeled brass was good for one thing only, carrying on a duty belt, brass cases don't like leather, they get corroded, nickel works fine for that purpose.
I was just gonna ask this question.
Tonight I put a Lee Undersize sizing die and Factory Crimp die on my 550 to fight setback in .45ACP. Worked like a charm, except for R-P cases. They're useable for my loads, but obviously don't grab the bullet as well as other brands.
Tonight I put a Lee Undersize sizing die and Factory Crimp die on my 550 to fight setback in .45ACP. Worked like a charm, except for R-P cases. They're useable for my loads, but obviously don't grab the bullet as well as other brands.
BluesBear-not a problem, already have a plug turned down so it doesn't expand brass sized in a Lee undersize die. Also am quite fond of Lee's factory crimp dies.
Will never buy any new Remington pistol brass, now that Starline makes 45 AR. Have some very old Rem military match (RA 65), that works well with 250 lrnfps.
Will never buy any new Remington pistol brass, now that Starline makes 45 AR. Have some very old Rem military match (RA 65), that works well with 250 lrnfps.
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
I've used some R-P brass on occassion for well over
thirty years; and never experienced a problem with
it.
*FootNote- like anything else, after extended use
brass begins to wear out. Always inspect your cases
before loading. FWIW, I just bought 5lbs. of what
is called a "Pot-of-Luck" brass in an assortment
of 9m/m, .38 Special, and .45 ACP's on e-bay for the
price of $1.99 + s&h; which came to a total of $12.84
shipped by U.S.P.S. Each case is advertied as cleaned
and inspected? It hasn't arrived just yet; so stay in
touch and I will let you know. Looks like I will have
a lot of work to do on those old cold and rainy days,
doesn't it?
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
thirty years; and never experienced a problem with
it.
*FootNote- like anything else, after extended use
brass begins to wear out. Always inspect your cases
before loading. FWIW, I just bought 5lbs. of what
is called a "Pot-of-Luck" brass in an assortment
of 9m/m, .38 Special, and .45 ACP's on e-bay for the
price of $1.99 + s&h; which came to a total of $12.84
shipped by U.S.P.S. Each case is advertied as cleaned
and inspected? It hasn't arrived just yet; so stay in
touch and I will let you know. Looks like I will have
a lot of work to do on those old cold and rainy days,
doesn't it?
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
Tony Mig
Member
I use R-P, Federal, WW, CBC (Magtech), and S&B....out of them all the R-P and Federal are the best for .38's & .357 Magnum. No split necks, easy to decap, and re-prime. The CBC and S&B are difficult to decap and re-prime, but seem to hold up well.
Most all of my .38 brass is R-P, and for that load I'd reccomend it, I have no expirience with any other loads, so I can't say.
Most all of my .38 brass is R-P, and for that load I'd reccomend it, I have no expirience with any other loads, so I can't say.
caz223
Member
For autos, I prefer winchester brass for some reason, for one, it's much easier to scrounge, and you tend to get a lot of winchester brass in a bag of mixed brass.
At least in my neck of the woods.
For magnum revolvers, I prefer starline/remington brass, because it's a little softer, and easier to work.
And as for some people saying that RP brass doesn't last long, I have the same 300 pieces of RP brass I had in '93, .41 magnum brass, hot-loaded in a blackhawk, and fired 20-30 times each, I'd guess.
Haven't had a split or bulge in any of them yet.
I've lost a few here and there to reloading mishaps, and got carried away with case neck annealing on my first attempt, but no problems other than operator error.
In 2003, I decided not to push my luck anymore, and bought 500 pieces of starline, and the remington brass is now for plinking loads (In other words, not shot much at all.).
At least in my neck of the woods.
For magnum revolvers, I prefer starline/remington brass, because it's a little softer, and easier to work.
And as for some people saying that RP brass doesn't last long, I have the same 300 pieces of RP brass I had in '93, .41 magnum brass, hot-loaded in a blackhawk, and fired 20-30 times each, I'd guess.
Haven't had a split or bulge in any of them yet.
I've lost a few here and there to reloading mishaps, and got carried away with case neck annealing on my first attempt, but no problems other than operator error.
In 2003, I decided not to push my luck anymore, and bought 500 pieces of starline, and the remington brass is now for plinking loads (In other words, not shot much at all.).
I was thinking about the various posts saying RP brass has thinner walls, I had never noticed any difference, so I checked, pulled out 3 once fired 45 ACP cases, WW, Federal and R-P, put the dial caliper on them, results below.
Winchester=.010"
Federal=.010"
R-P=.010"
All three had exactly the same wall thickness.
Winchester=.010"
Federal=.010"
R-P=.010"
All three had exactly the same wall thickness.
Paul "Fitz" Jones
Moderator - Emeritus
RP brass
When you buy cheap you get what you pay for a cheaper made product. Of the major ammo producers Remington ammo comes on sale often for the least prices as it is the thinnest brass of the majors. I have loaded many millions of rounds and what I wanted to get rid of for my own police department was the Remington niclkel plated brass. I was loading Federal or Winchester brass in my Stars or automated reloaders the Remington brass would not hold the bullets solidly because of their thinner walls. Because of this they have reduced life, split faster and in the over thousand progressive reloaders I sold I advised my customers to not use Remington brass because the bullets could move under recoil in a cylinder or jam an autoloader.
As a commercial reloader I had my case inspection machine and sorting tables set up to reject them and I loaded them in a reloader with a smaller expander die and a Lifetyme 2 step double carbide ring die to size the case smaller and got rid of them from my law enforcement customers brass inventory at gun shows.
I did not desire any complaints from my law enforcement or competitor customers. I advised this decades ago.
Quality of materials and dimensions can change over time. My opinions were formed with target 38 and 45 calibers mostly and I would use a new batch of brass to load full power loads. I recommended that the customers I served buy Federal first and Winchester second and for my 45acp competitors I provided GI Brass i got from the Navy as it had the longest life of any civilian brands. And even then I ppreferred the Winchester over the Remington. .A customer who was an editor of a guns and ammo magazine advised me of all the testing and writeups of new weapons they wrote up Federal ammo gave the best accuracy and they had to decide when to use it as they had all the ammo companies as advertisers.
Paul Jones Retired
Jones Munitions Systems
Fitz Pistol Grips
Progressive Reloader Reconditioning Center
Currently
Star Reloader Mentors and Assistance Group
When you buy cheap you get what you pay for a cheaper made product. Of the major ammo producers Remington ammo comes on sale often for the least prices as it is the thinnest brass of the majors. I have loaded many millions of rounds and what I wanted to get rid of for my own police department was the Remington niclkel plated brass. I was loading Federal or Winchester brass in my Stars or automated reloaders the Remington brass would not hold the bullets solidly because of their thinner walls. Because of this they have reduced life, split faster and in the over thousand progressive reloaders I sold I advised my customers to not use Remington brass because the bullets could move under recoil in a cylinder or jam an autoloader.
As a commercial reloader I had my case inspection machine and sorting tables set up to reject them and I loaded them in a reloader with a smaller expander die and a Lifetyme 2 step double carbide ring die to size the case smaller and got rid of them from my law enforcement customers brass inventory at gun shows.
I did not desire any complaints from my law enforcement or competitor customers. I advised this decades ago.
Quality of materials and dimensions can change over time. My opinions were formed with target 38 and 45 calibers mostly and I would use a new batch of brass to load full power loads. I recommended that the customers I served buy Federal first and Winchester second and for my 45acp competitors I provided GI Brass i got from the Navy as it had the longest life of any civilian brands. And even then I ppreferred the Winchester over the Remington. .A customer who was an editor of a guns and ammo magazine advised me of all the testing and writeups of new weapons they wrote up Federal ammo gave the best accuracy and they had to decide when to use it as they had all the ammo companies as advertisers.
Paul Jones Retired
Jones Munitions Systems
Fitz Pistol Grips
Progressive Reloader Reconditioning Center
Currently
Star Reloader Mentors and Assistance Group
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