Zeroing HOLOSUN 507C
- Thread starter Cokeman
- Start date
25 yards is what I zero my pistol optics at. I have a Swampfox Kingslayer with circle dot reticle mounted to my CP33. It is zeroed at 25 yards and there is little hold over needed to hit stuff out to 80 yards with it. I basically put the bottom edge of the dot on the center of the target at 80 yards for a good hit. I mostly shoot either CCI AR Tactical or Aguila Super Extra in the CP33.
TacticalJanitor
Member
I zero at 15Y (but I don't shoot handguns past 25Y). This way, if you are closer or farther...POI is only a little higher or lower. No big deal.
But, I do not do any target shooting. Those guys are serious about zeros and distances.
Keep in mind that an RDs is usually much higher than your iron sights in relation to the bore axis. When shooting closer with a red dot, you are going to hit lower than you might expect.
But, I do not do any target shooting. Those guys are serious about zeros and distances.
Keep in mind that an RDs is usually much higher than your iron sights in relation to the bore axis. When shooting closer with a red dot, you are going to hit lower than you might expect.
herrwalther
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2013
- Messages
- 8,130
I found something a bit different when zeroing handgun optics that I haven't heard many trainers cover. What is the typical distance you shoot well with that handgun? Do you shoot best groups at 10? 15? 20? 25? 50 yards? Whatever it is, zero it at that distance. If it is a self defense firearm you will be accurate enough at most zeroes to land fight stopping hits once it is properly sighted in.
Personally I zero at 25 yards. For no better reason than that is the farthest my pistol range goes out to and easy to remember.
Personally I zero at 25 yards. For no better reason than that is the farthest my pistol range goes out to and easy to remember.
Iron sights at 15 yards, then confirm POI at 25 and 50 yards
Red dots at 25 yards, then confirm POI at 50 yards.
You should know where your s pistol is going to hit at the furthest range that you might encounter. If you have to take a longer shot than your zero distance, you don't want to be guessing where your shots are going to hit.
If you limit yourself to the "typical distance you shoot well" at, you're placing an artificial ceiling on your shooting ability
For the OP: With the ACSS reticle, zero using the tip of the chevron...not the whole chevron
Red dots at 25 yards, then confirm POI at 50 yards.
You should know where your s pistol is going to hit at the furthest range that you might encounter. If you have to take a longer shot than your zero distance, you don't want to be guessing where your shots are going to hit.
If you limit yourself to the "typical distance you shoot well" at, you're placing an artificial ceiling on your shooting ability
For the OP: With the ACSS reticle, zero using the tip of the chevron...not the whole chevron
Atavar
Member
For me zero at twice the normal range works best. Others say zero at half the normal range (bad idea IMHO).
Yet another more complicated theory is to take a look at the ballistics for the load you will be shooting and your firearm and zero at the distance where the bullet trajectory crosses the optical line of sight for the second time. This is probably best but takes some maths and charts or a good ballistics program and a good rest. This method means your sights are only dead on at two points in the bullets travel but keeps you within minute of bad guy for the greatest distance. The trick then is to chart bullet apparent rise and drop at various distances and memorize them.
Note: Bullet ‘rise’ is a misnomer. A bullet dropped from the same height as a level barrel at the instant the fired bullet leaves the muzzle and the one fired will stay at the same altitude and hit level ground at the same moment.
We see apparent rise because the barrel is actually pointed up in relation to the line of sight. This is complicated because of barrel lift during recoil which is more evident with handguns.
Yet another more complicated theory is to take a look at the ballistics for the load you will be shooting and your firearm and zero at the distance where the bullet trajectory crosses the optical line of sight for the second time. This is probably best but takes some maths and charts or a good ballistics program and a good rest. This method means your sights are only dead on at two points in the bullets travel but keeps you within minute of bad guy for the greatest distance. The trick then is to chart bullet apparent rise and drop at various distances and memorize them.
Note: Bullet ‘rise’ is a misnomer. A bullet dropped from the same height as a level barrel at the instant the fired bullet leaves the muzzle and the one fired will stay at the same altitude and hit level ground at the same moment.
We see apparent rise because the barrel is actually pointed up in relation to the line of sight. This is complicated because of barrel lift during recoil which is more evident with handguns.
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highlander 5
Member
Interesting I've 2 pistols with red dots both set at 10 yds right now.
Spent yesterday sighting sighting in a Swampfox Kingslayer on a Canik SFX Mete sight screen kept coming loose should've loctited them/torqued them to begin with. Torqued to 10 inch/lbs. Iron sights are getting hard to see so figured why not use a red dot.
Spent yesterday sighting sighting in a Swampfox Kingslayer on a Canik SFX Mete sight screen kept coming loose should've loctited them/torqued them to begin with. Torqued to 10 inch/lbs. Iron sights are getting hard to see so figured why not use a red dot.
ExtremeSquared
Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2008
- Messages
- 259
I've been a fan of zeroing red dots such that max trajectory over poa at apex = sight height over bore.
Then commit to memory these ranges:
1. first point where trajectory under poa is hob = 0 meters, obviously
2. point where trajectory over poa = height over bore = some range that you don't really need to remember, but can if you're trying to shoot accurately
3. second point where trajectory under poa is hob = max point-and-shoot range
This has an arbitrary zero distance, but maximizes practical "point-and-shoot" distance. I think there's a name for this zero method, but I can't remember it.
Then commit to memory these ranges:
1. first point where trajectory under poa is hob = 0 meters, obviously
2. point where trajectory over poa = height over bore = some range that you don't really need to remember, but can if you're trying to shoot accurately
3. second point where trajectory under poa is hob = max point-and-shoot range
This has an arbitrary zero distance, but maximizes practical "point-and-shoot" distance. I think there's a name for this zero method, but I can't remember it.
I zero red dots at 10 yards, the bullet will impact higher at 25 yards.
Ex: 180 gr. 40 S&W Calculator says about inch high at 25 I think its more like 1 1/2'' - point being, I've checked - calculator shows back at zero at 50
https://www.federalpremium.com/ballistics-calculator
I usually don't "do" odds, but for SD odds are 10 yards more likely than 25.
That said, I don't have trouble hitting at 25.
Ex: 180 gr. 40 S&W Calculator says about inch high at 25 I think its more like 1 1/2'' - point being, I've checked - calculator shows back at zero at 50
https://www.federalpremium.com/ballistics-calculator
I usually don't "do" odds, but for SD odds are 10 yards more likely than 25.
That said, I don't have trouble hitting at 25.
JR24
Member
I zero red dots at 10 yards, the bullet will impact higher at 25 yards.
Ex: 180 gr. 40 S&W Calculator says about inch high at 25 I think its more like 1 1/2'' - point being, I've checked - calculator shows back at zero at 50
https://www.federalpremium.com/ballistics-calculator
I usually don't "do" odds, but for SD odds are 10 yards more likely than 25.
View attachment 1140637
I do the same.
I went today to zero it. I set up at 15 yards which is where I normally shoot. I shot these resting the gun on my range bag and also standing and shooting off hand. I thought it was good enough and didn’t even make any adjustments to the sight. I just left it with the settings it shipped with. I had my wife and son with me. We set up lots of cans and bottles to shoot. We were blowing them up like crazy. It was so easy compared to using the fiber optic sights on the gun.
