60Until somebody more knowledgeable than I comes along, I'd say if it were a Model 36, its nickel. If it were stainless, it'd be a Model 66. If there's no Model number, its nickel.
Bob Wright
I can feel the fragility and deception of the micron-thick nickel plate masking the unloved visage of unloved and unblued carbon steel. . . a poser trying desperately to play the Stainless it's not. . .Is this model 36 nickel plated or polished stainless?
I think it depends on the quality of the steel used. I've deblued and polished several pistols and I've noticed the differences keeping them bright. My S&W revolver isn't much of a problem, but my Taurus is.I know people do take stainless stuff, like knife blades and guns, up to mirror all the time w/out issues, but, my Ruger sure isn't one that it worked out well on.
Until somebody more knowledgeable than I comes along, I'd say if it were a Model 36, its nickel. If it were stainless, it'd be a Model 66. If there's no Model number, its nickel.
Bob Wright
....Another tip - about bright stainless - it scratches horribly and looks like crap any time you handle the gun.
I made the huge mistake of taking the slab sides of my Ruger Mark II "slabside" up to bright.
Now, not only do I have to clean the thing after each trip to the range, I have to sit down for a few hours and sand scratches out of it......
The model 66 is a K frame. I believe the OP has a 36 Nickel Plated.Until somebody more knowledgeable than I comes along, I'd say if it were a Model 36, its nickel. If it were stainless, it'd be a Model 66. If there's no Model number, its nickel.
Bob Wright
There is a large "N" stamped on the grip frame.
(could indicate Not stainless?)
I believe that there were early m.60's with case hardened triggers and hammers. (I consider those to be the really good ones...)
There were later 60's with mim appendages that were flash chromed , which left a drab grey finish. My edc no-dash 60 has the latter.
Nothing about the OP revolver says 60 to me. I am guessing that it is pre '57 , so no model number at the base of the yoke?
I wouldn't get LeadAway anywhere near my nickel guns. Contrary to the marketing, it is abrasive and nickel plating isn't very hard. Not to mention that cleaning the carbon scoring off the cylinder face is a colossal waste of time.A lead away cloth will remove all that nasty carbon that's going to build up on the face of the cylinder.
Flash chromed, not stainless.If it were stainless the trigger and hammer would also be stainless. Those are case color, so....nickel.
I should have just said, since his hammer and trigger were color case hardened, it was a nickel finish. Some early M60 and M66 had a stainless trigger and hammer, not sure when the change was made, they didn't see it worthy for a series number change.Flash chromed, not stainless.
The original M-60 came with stainless hammer and trigger. There was an issue with hardening them as it changed the color...hence they were flash chromed (matte white). After that they just installed carbon hammer and triggers, as in the M-36, and flash chromed them.I believe that there were early m.60's with case hardened triggers and hammers. (I consider those to be the really good ones...)
There were later 60's with mim appendages that were flash chromed , which left a drab grey finish. My edc no-dash 60 has the latter.
Good point.
Has the OP checked for a model number?