Acceptable accuracy for a .357 carbine at 50 yds?

Not great, but about 6moa isn't out of the realm of acceptability in a pistol-caliber carbine IMO. I wouldn't be too upset about that, as as you say, you can hopefully improve it with handloads.

Nice-looking rifle.

Acceptable to me would be able to hit stuff I can actually see with my naked eyes, which for me would be about 3" at 50 yards.

I don't have .357 carbine, but my Henry Classic in 45colt is about 1- 1/2 moa at best with FTX , consistently about 2moa with Hard Cast. I wouldn't expect less than 2moa with any lever carbine, but some will do a little better with the right handload. 3" groups are what I would expect at at 100yds,. 50yds ,you should be able to get under 2", but maybe not with iron sights.

Hugger-4641 said:

you should be able to get under 2", but maybe not with iron sights.

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Good point. A scope would really help remove some variables.

Good point 1KPerDay. With my eyesight, as soon as I got my Henry's in .357 and a .45 Colt, I scoped 'em. Same as my Win 94[30-30].
I simply need the optical help. And it works. I've posted this before, but, there they are.
As for loads, yeah, handloading would help, I'm sure.

Trey Veston said:

Ruger/Marlin 1894 with some old factory ammo in .38 spl and .357 Mag. Groups with iron sights were about 5" with the .38s and just under 3" with the .357s. I was expecting around 2" or so at best.

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Difference in group size could be from bullet drop vertical dispersion from muzzle velocity variations.

Pistol caliber carbines will show effects of bullet drop even at 50 yards and certainly at 75/100 yards.

With my scoped 9mm PCCs shooting 115/124 gr bullets around 1300-1400 fps, I get around 2"-3" groups at 50 yards. With lighter and faster (less bullet drop) 95-100 gr bullets pushing around/under 1500 fps, I get around 1"-2" groups at 50 yards and 3"-4" groups at 100 yards.

With my Henry H012GM, Skinner peep sights and home cast Hitek coated lead WFN 148gr deep HP PB bullets, 13.0gr N110, on an average day at 50yards rested I expect 1-1/2" groups, on an exceptional day (of me shooting well), I'll see them print at 1" groups. Front rest only, no rear bag.

I bet that rifle shoots extremely well, with the right ammunition for it. That old factory ammo probably isn't the most optimized for your rifle, and a better sight over the buck-horn will definitely help, whether peep or scope.

I’d say if you’re not fairly accomplished with the factory sights on such a rifle, you’re doing pretty well. Those sights aren’t something I’d use to judge the rifles accuracy.

Trey Veston said:

I shot my new Ruger/Marlin 1894 with some old factory ammo in .38 spl and .357 Mag. Groups with iron sights were about 5" with the .38s and just under 3" with the .357s. I was expecting around 2" or so at best. But the video I posted on YouTube had many commenting that the groups were horrible. I plan on reloading for it and will likely shrink the groups.

Curious as to what most folks think are acceptable for this rifle.

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From my limited experience with lever guns, a good aperture sight or small scope would probably have tightened up your shooting.

My Remlin 1894 .357 will do around 2" at 50 pretty consistently with the 2.75x scope on it. I can't remember the 100 yard results, because the targets typically aren't worth keeping for showing off.

It should shoot better than 6MOA. No question. Whether you're able to shoot better than 6moa with the support you employed and with the combination of iron sights and the target you used, well... Those influences may mean this hasn't been the best test of the true potential of the rifle. But in general, I expect most REVOLVERS to hold between 2.5-4MOA, so that carbine holding 6MOA would not pass my satisfaction. 1-2MOA is where I'd want to find that rifle, and I wouldn't tolerate worse than 3moa. But that would include a scope, bipod, and rear bag for me.

I have a 1980 vintage Marlin 1894C, 357 Magnum, that I'd be comfortable shooting out to 100 yards. It has a micro groove barrel and shoots jacketed bullets very well. Cast bullets not so well. I do not remember what the 100 yards groups are but as I said, I'd be comfortable taking a 100 yard shot with the gun.

Also, I have a recent production Miroku/Winchester 1873 chambered in 357 Magnum. It shoots well but I have not really pressed it's limits yet.

Upgrade your sights and fiddle around with loads. I have a Rossi that cannot be scoped, but a peep and a fiber optic front sight work well to the limits of my vision. I mostly shoot 38 target loads out of it. An inch at 50 yards is pretty typical until my eyes get tired.

My 2.5x scoped 1970's era marlin can do 5-8 rounds under 1" with my lead hand loads all day long at 50. I use a fat bullet in the microgrooved barrel. I run it at .360.

I have been unable to do as well with 30-30 or 44mag.

How much practice with open sights.
What target used.
Kind of bench and rest.
Where was the sun.
How much coffee.
How old are your eyes.
Kind of ammo
All this matters especially type of target and how the front sight shows up when shooting. A m1 garand haves excellent sights and all this is important
I second nice looking rifle. And like to add, it's hard to knock your shooting not knowing you and your setup. Just practice without worrying what others think. U tube , really

The rifle should be capable of an inch or less at 50 with ammo it likes, ammo it doesn't like could easily open up to 3 or more. If you're capable of 1" with irons and chosen target is another factor.

I'd be disappointed if it didn't shoot 1"@50yds. Regardless of sighting equipment.

I would be disappointed with anything less than 2” at 50 if I was confident in my sighting.
I had an old JM 357 with open sights and a Rossi 357 ‘92 with a receiver sight, both were 2” or better.
Try a load in magnum brass with Unique and a 158 XTP.
Maybe a small red dot wouldn’t look too bad on a lever gun.

I have a 4x scope on mine I mostly shoot steel plates and hunt groundhog with it.But I have several times loaded the magazine full and with a front rest have no problem keeping them all in 3” shoot n see target at 100 yards not shooting as fast as I can but not fooling around,My 44 mag. Won’t keep them in 3” at 100 taking my time and I’ve spent a lot of time and different loads

A lot going on with a tube magazine lever gun. The front band can affect barrel vibrations; loosening the retaining screw can often help. Sights really make a difference; I put tang sights on lever guns; it really lets old guys shoot irons. There's an 'ivory' bead on mine now, too. The number of rounds in the magazine can make a difference. All that said, not really sure these are meant to be a gun for bragging groups. We have a dangling tie plate, 90 yards away, down at camp. I can whack that off my hind legs. That keeps me entertained.
When spring is on the meadow, I'll make a range run with the intent of dialing in the sights a little finer; I'll shoot for groups as well. We'll see.
Moon

I would want at least 1” at 50 yards. I can see a shotshell at that distance and can hit it with a an iron sighted rifle so capable.

If my pistol caliber leverguns doesn’t do that, well, I’d not get rid of it, but I’d work towards it.

Loads that are in the 2” range are still useful for plinking and fun. Loads in the 3”+ range.... useful for hunting or blasting.

Sights and ammo make a huge difference. Could be it doesn’t like the ammo, could be your eyes don’t jive with the sights.

Trey Veston said:

I shot my new Ruger/Marlin 1894 with some old factory ammo in .38 spl and .357 Mag. Groups with iron sights were about 5" with the .38s and just under 3" with the .357s. I was expecting around 2" or so at best. But the video I posted on YouTube had many commenting that the groups were horrible. I plan on reloading for it and will likely shrink the groups.

Curious as to what most folks think are acceptable for this rifle.

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Sounds about right. I have a Remlin 1894 made in 2018. It's ever bit as nice as my Ruger/ Marlin 336. My 94 really likes 180gr RNFP Coated bullets with 11.5grs of 2400. I'm a big fan of 2400 powder for my pistol caliber carbines. The coated bullets works as good as any.

Just keep trying different loads/ammo until you find one your gun likes. IMO, your not going to find a better carbine than the one you have.

DMW1116 said:

I’d say if you’re not fairly accomplished with the factory sights on such a rifle, you’re doing pretty well. Those sights aren’t something I’d use to judge the rifles accuracy.

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I agree completely my Remlin 45-70 tightened up nicely just by installing a 1moa holographic. Kinda ruins the lever guns line with the holographic sitting on it but I shoot better with it on. Its my “brush gun” for running deer at 50 yards ish. And for that it’s killer I’ve dropped 2 big bucks (and a few does) with it trying to sneak out the back of a drive.

I have a Henry 357 carbine and it is capable of sub 2 MOA with high quality ammunition and upgraded sights or really good eyes. However, I just use it for off hand plinking with cast reloads, so with standard sights, it is 4 MOA. I can hit a 4 inch plastic target ball all day long at 100, so good enough for me and my purposes.

Varminterror said:

It should shoot better than 6MOA. No question. Whether you're able to shoot better than 6moa with the support you employed and with the combination of iron sights and the target you used, well... Those influences may mean this hasn't been the best test of the true potential of the rifle. But in general, I expect most REVOLVERS to hold between 2.5-4MOA, so that carbine holding 6MOA would not pass my satisfaction. 1-2MOA is where I'd want to find that rifle, and I wouldn't tolerate worse than 3moa. But that would include a scope, bipod, and rear bag for me.

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This is what I would reiterate. I shot a rifle today at 50 yards because I only had a low-power scope. With irons, I suggest shooting 25 yards, but I know that I also have to rest and bag the rifle or it won't be fair at all. I use a Harris bipod when I can, or a Protektor rest when a bipod won't fit, with a Protektor rear bag. I used to think I was accurate because I was holding steady prone. I found resting and bagging made the difference between a 1.5 MOA group and a .75 MOA group. I still have to see the target though. I have better than 20/20 distance vision, and there's no way I can see to put a front sight one side of a MOA or the other at 100 yards.