“Loose” J-Frame

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Peakbagger46

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image.jpg I’ve had my M&P 340 for over a decade now and carry it in my vest as a BUG at work every shift. It’s seen a lot of rounds over the years including a good deal of full .357. The cylinder has a good deal of play in it now. What are my options for getting it tightened up? Should I send it to Smith and pay for them to rehabilitate it? Is it time to retire it for practice only?
 
Not too much end shake, more rotational play. Play is equally present whenever or not trigger is pulled.
 
If it locks each charge hole before hammer falls, and are aligned with the bore, should be reasonably ok.... If it's like that on all charge holes it might be a worn hand, which S&W should be able to correct by replacing. Or the stop could be worn, maybe more likely.
 
Thanks all. I sent Smith an email today an am awaiting their response. I’d be willing to pay for it as I’d consider it normal wear considering all the .357 loads I’ve shot through her.
How many magnums and of what variety have you put thru her? I'm asking because I've never even heard of a j frame being shot so much as to have excessive play. Before I sent it in to S & W I would let someone who is familiar with revolvers give you their opinion. Personally I like a little play side to side and fore and aft in my carry piece.
 
Too bad you choose not to indicate where you live. Lots of gunsmiths make a good living fixing revolvers.

Kevin
 
How many magnums and of what variety have you put thru her? I'm asking because I've never even heard of a j frame being shot so much as to have excessive play. Before I sent it in to S & W I would let someone who is familiar with revolvers give you their opinion. Personally I like a little play side to side and fore and aft in my carry piece.

Shot several hundred 125 and 158g full power. Then my old boss gave me quite a few 180g Black Talons. Ran a few boxes of those through her as well.

My grip strength has always been greater the my mental prowess lol.
 
Shot several hundred 125 and 158g full power. Then my old boss gave me quite a few 180g Black Talons. Ran a few boxes of those through her as well.

My grip strength has always been greater the my mental prowess lol.
Shot several hundred 125 and 158g full power. Then my old boss gave me quite a few 180g Black Talons. Ran a few boxes of those through her as well.

My grip strength has always been greater the my mental prowess lol.
That is quite impressive for the gun and you. It could probably use a tune up. I suspect you will have problems with your shooting hand down the road. You can trust me on that one.
 
Letting the factory have a look is your best move; if things actually need to be replaced, they will have the parts.
I admire your gluttony for punishment; my 340 has seen some magnums, but full charge wadcutters are actually fun.
Moon
 
Thanks all, working with S&W to get her shipped back.

She can sing with full loads in my hands with very little muzzle flip. Not saying it doesn’t hurt (it does) but follow up shots are surprising fast. Now days I carry Buffalo Bore 158g LSWCHP +P, a very hot .38 load.

Maybe I’ll justify a new 340 but this time with the titanium cylinder and mainly use the old girl for practice. When I quit this cop nonsense eventually, a Jframe will likely be my EDC.
 
Hey Peakbagger, you're saying your gun doesn't have a Ti cylinder? Hmm, thot' they all did. I've a 340SC, what they were initially called, and it has the titanium cylinder. Whole thing weighs 11 oz.
Understand the notion; Smith wanted light, and light is what they got.
Best,
Moon
 
Hey Peakbagger, you're saying your gun doesn't have a Ti cylinder? Hmm, thot' they all did. I've a 340SC, what they were initially called, and it has the titanium cylinder. Whole thing weighs 11 oz.
Understand the notion; Smith wanted light, and light is what they got.
Best,
Moon

Moon,
Mine is the 340 M&P with a PVD coated stainless cylinder. Believe she’s 2oz heavier than the titanium version.
 
Shot several hundred 125 and 158g full power. Then my old boss gave me quite a few 180g Black Talons. Ran a few boxes of those through her as well.

My grip strength has always been greater the my mental prowess lol.
You have an impressive pain tolerance as well. I shot one .357 in mine again last week and was like “nope, still sucks” and unloaded it. Lol
 
Peak - please clarify something. Is the movement of your cylinder when the gun is closed going forward and backwards, turning rotationally (clockwise/counterCW) on the ejector when closed, or BOTH? If the latter, I would suggest you NOT shoot it as it very likely that the chambers are not lining up with the forcing cone. This can damage both the bullet as it enters the barrel (causing accuracy problems at the very least) and the forcing cone. This might cause the gun to "spit" more lead particles and powder flare out the sides at the front of the cylinder.
Checking a rotational problem on a "hammerless" gun is a bit harder as it is DAO. If you had a hammer, you could cock the gun and then check for rotational movement in the cylinder (there should be NONE).
I don't believe that forward & backward motion isn't as dangerous but I'm not sure.
Good luck in getting your gun fixed.
 
JT', a little (emphasis on little) rotational play is okay, and just due to wear/mfg tolerances.
Smiths aren't as dependent on the hand for lockup as Colts, but keeping the trigger pulled on a 'hammerless' Centennial should take out the rotational slop.
BTW, an observation about the 340s; mine came with some sort of really grippy rubber stocks. Too grippy. It about took skin with it in recoil. A more slippery rubber, or even smooth wood grips, are better.
Moon
 
JT', a little (emphasis on little) rotational play is okay, and just due to wear/mfg tolerances.
Smiths aren't as dependent on the hand for lockup as Colts, but keeping the trigger pulled on a 'hammerless' Centennial should take out the rotational slop.
BTW, an observation about the 340s; mine came with some sort of really grippy rubber stocks. Too grippy. It about took skin with it in recoil. A more slippery rubber, or even smooth wood grips, are better.
Moon

Definitely has slop present when the trigger is pressed and held.

I love my rubber grips, helps drawing from deep concealment (inside the vest rig)! Pretty wood grips would be cool though.
 
The cylinder has a good deal of play. . .
Every brand new aluminum J-frame I've handled had a "good deal" of "play", relative to my M19-3, and the M19-3 has a "good deal" of "play" relative to my M586.

Without units and specific measurements, there's no telling what you have. If you don't have it, I suggest buying Kuhnhausen's S&W manual to gain a better understanding if ehat you're looking at.
 
Smith provided me with a shipping label and I dropped her off this morning. Below is the note I included:

“Thank you for taking the time to go through this little cannon. I’ve carried it as a backup on duty (patrol deputy) on and off for over a decade. It has seen a lot of rounds, including quite a number of full .357 rounds and has been dropped a couple of times.

It seems looser than it used to be (rotational cylinder play, end shake seems OK) and I’m not sure I trust it at this point. Could you please go through it and replace any parts that show wear and tighten up the lockup? I’m willing to pay for whatever parts and labor are needed.

Thanks in advance,
-Weathered deputy”

Let’s forget about the dropped comment… crap happens and I promise no French flags were involved.
 
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