1911 Barrel Problem?

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Dave! I never said that you were wrong! Give me a break man cuz I specifically said that I appreciated your advice, which is not an underhanded way of saying that I was disregarding your advice. I was just over on brownell's website putting an order together. Please keep in mind that **I don't even know how to stake a pin**. My "weekend gunsmithing" experience is limited to polishing makarov and glockt trigger bars with a cloth wheel!

Dave, PM inbound.
 
I wasn't pickin' on you , Dominic. I was just poking OF&T with a sharp stick! I like you and was glad to try and help you and will always share what I know with you. They defend their "Rightness" like pit bulls and although I like them both, I do have a sarcastic streak in me just like they do. No one here knows it all. I certainly don't. All I can talk about is what I know from personal experience after being in the Pistolsmith business for many years. I am a Norinco Fan and like them fore the price and what is there for basics, but I don't own one. Why would I? Rest easy, old friend. Old guys get cranky sometimes!
 
Dave:

If I understand correctly, you propose to shave off the battered top of the lugs on the pictured barrel (which is in Dominic's pistol, not Gary's) and then substitute a standard length link and pin.

If so, that will certainly cure something ...

Anyway the Old Fuff is not "righteous," but he is knowledgeable.

Readers should feel free to pick what ever advice they want ...

At their own risk of course. :uhoh:
 
Olden Fuff, I'll bite, because I have no pride and no shame. What exactly would that fix, inyo?

I bought a black majic marker on the way home, but now I am going to bed.
 
Toast?

Well...maybe it's my eyes that're toast...but from here, it looks like the front corners of those lugs are beat to Helen Gone. Check the backside of the bottom lug...where it hits the frame in linkdown to see if there's a sign of hard contact there.

Your smith said to put a tighter bushing in it? To correct the problem damaging
the lugs?? :confused:
 
Tuner,

Just for the sake of being as clear as possile, the smith in question not "my smith". He's just one of the two guys in town who have a brick and mortar shop displaying the sign "gun repair".

Both of the town's smiths looked at the norinco barrel lugs and said, "If your groups are ok, and you don't have any stoppages, I wouldn't worry about it". Both examined the slide and noted that it didn't show signs of wear.

The smith that I spoke to yesterday suggested a tighter bushing when he started reassembling the pistol while we talking and he noticed that the norinco's stock bushing was oversized and and that there was a great deal of play between it and the barrel. I don't think that he meant that it would address the barrel lugs, though the way that I described it here implied that.

Things I will do today if I get around to it:
- Magic marker test
- Post new picks of the top and bottom lugs
- Try to locate a scrapable file in my dad's garage
- Order link and pin from brownells, along with other stuff
- Surf the boards and try to figure out how in the heck I remove the old link pin and stake a new one

I do have another Norinco question:
Why do folks feel it necessary to flare the ejection port on their norincos and on the Springer G.I. milspecs? Since I've tuned in the ed brown extractor, my norinco chucks cases like a nobody's business.

I'm here to learn. Again, thanks again to all of you.

- Dominic
 
more pics

350 dpi scan:

norinco_lugs3.jpg


bottom lug

norinco_lugs4.jpg


norinco_lugs5.jpg


norinco_lugs6.jpg
 
Flanged Lugs

They don't look quite as bad as in the first pix...but the flanging is still pretty rough. Hard to tell if the lugs are stepped or it that's a light/shadow effect.

The damage is due to the barrel not getting fully unlocked from the slide in time...
or not falling far enough to let the slide get past it without crashing the lugs.
When the slide is rearward .250 inch from battery position, there should be a minimum of .010 inch between the top of the barrel and the underside of the slide.
No fair pushing on the hood to get the clearance...It has to fall.

The specs between the frame and rear of the lower lug can cause it...or a short or long link can cause it. If the lower lug feet are too long, and hold the barrel off the bed more than the thickness of a strip of cigarette paper...that'll do it too.

From the looks of the lower lug, it doesn't appear to be the specs between frame and lug...maybe the link is a little long or short. With the slidestop pin through the link, with the link vertical and the pin settled into the radius of the feet...
The pin should touch the lower lug...or at the very most, it shouldn't be held off of it by more than a thousandth or two. If the pin is held off of the link very much,
it won't let the barrel go to bed, and the slide will hit the lugs.

You can try cleanin' up the tops of the lugs with a file...if you can follow a radius
with a file...otherwise, use a scrape. Following a radius is a little tricky if you've never done it. You can also lightly break the front corners of the lugs with a scrape. Lightly!

Check the link by laying the barrel in the frame and inserting the slidestop pin through it...but leave the slidestop arm hanging down. Push the barrel down and back firmly and see if the pin will swing freely or get into a bind. Check also to see if the barrel sits into the bed's radius.
 
Trash Barrel? I don't think so. Obviously it is not linking up right which causes the peening on the front of the lugs. This is a common problem with 1911's that are shooting semi waddcuttters in many factory guns. The top of the lugs are great and they have not been reduced on that barrel or the other one, either. I have been rounding off those sharp edges on the upper lugs since I started working on 1911's.

To remove the barrel link, a bench block would be helpful, but in this case, I would advise you to have your smith install a new link and pin. I have a Scott/Macdougal tool that I use that is made for that task, but they are very expensive to do one link. I also have the right punches to do the job.

Since I put a dawg in this fight, send me the barrel , new link, and oversized pin and I will take care of it for you and return it by Priority Mail the next day. Like I said, it's about a 15 minute fix and I will do it pro bono. I am still retired from 1911 work, but I will help you with this one. Talk is cheap here, but action speaks louder than words. You can take some pictures of it after we fix it and then see how the gun runs.I do not want the gun sent because I have a FFL and I do not want to log it in and out, nor do I want to pay the return shipping for a 1911. www.captaineagle.us or email me with a PM if you want to take me up on this offer. I am very familiar with Norincos.
 
Thanks Tuner, but like the Mother Superior told all of the new Fathers, "Let's not get in the Habit!" We will report later on the outcome and maybe I will takes some pics of the work we do.
 
When I read this thread and Old Fuff's pm two days ago, I put the norinco in the safe and strapped on the Glock 30. I would have replied sooner folks but the children have been under the weather and my computer time had to be used for work only. My thanks to everyone for their input!

Tuner said, to Gary:
First let's be sure that it really is a long link.

Hold the barrel in front of you horizontally and swing the link back and forth from vertical to about 25 degrees toward the muzzle. If .200 diameter pin were through the link...would the pin touch or nearly touch the lower lug at any point from the forward curve all the way to vertical...or would the link hold the pin away from the lug at all points?

Also...If the pin were through the link, would it fit the radius formed by the feet at the back of the lower lug AND touch the underside of the lug at the same time? OR...Would the pin contact the back curve closer to the
tips of the feet?

and

a correct link should [allow the pin to ?] lightly touch the lower lug just as it swings around the forward curve and bear on the bottom of the lug as the barrel goes to battery. (Link about one degree PAST vertical) Vertical lockup is properly achieved by the slidestop pin bearing upward on the bottom of the lug.

I performed this test with both the original norinco slide stop pin and the aftermarket CMC pin. Both results were the same. If you put pressure on the pin by trying to hold it close to the barrel lug, it would ride the lug EXCEPT while swinging around the forward curve. If you applied pressure to the pin as though you were trying to keep it away from the lug it would never touch the lug during the movement.

Tuner said:
The damage is due to the barrel not getting fully unlocked from the slide in time...or not falling far enough to let the slide get past it without crashing the lugs. When the slide is rearward .250 inch from battery position, there should be a minimum of .010 inch between the top of the barrel and the underside of the slide.
No fair pushing on the hood to get the clearance...It has to fall.

When I perform this test I don't think that I am getting quite .010" of clearance. I can see where the front corner of the slide has been scraping across the barrel hood.

From the looks of the lower lug, it doesn't appear to be the specs between frame and lug...maybe the link is a little long or short. With the slidestop pin through the link, with the link vertical and the pin settled into the radius of the feet...The pin should touch the lower lug...or at the very most, it shouldn't be held off of it by more than a thousandth or two. If the pin is held off of the link very much, it won't let the barrel go to bed, and the slide will hit the lugs.

Check the link by laying the barrel in the frame and inserting the slidestop pin through it...but leave the slidestop arm hanging down. Push the barrel down and back firmly and see if the pin will swing freely or get into a bind. Check also to see if the barrel sits into the bed's radius.

When I lay the barrel in the frame and insert the slidestop through the link, leaving the slide stop arm hanging down, and push the barrel down and back, the barrel does "go to bed". However, the pin **does not swing freely** when the barrel is in seat in the bed's radius. It can be moved of course, but will stay in whatever position you move it to while the barrel is in the bed. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. All parts were thoroughly cleaned before I tested.

Tuner, I don't know how to follow a radius, though that didn't stop me from following your detailed instructions for modifying my Springfield Milspec's extractor, a project that turned out with excellent results! So, I am taking up Dave Sample on his very kind and generous offer of relinking the barrel and cleaning up the barrel lugs.

And Old Fuff - Thank you for your time in writing your thoughtful and informative pm to me. I am ordering Kuhnhausen’s Shop Manual Today.

Dave Sample, a Wilson #3 link and oversized pin is on it way to you, drop-shipped directly from Brownell's via Priority Mail to your Prescott, AZ address.

Part Numbers:
Link...965-142-278 ($5.25)
Pin.....080-816-156 ($5.80)
Brownell's Order #51232502

I will send the barrel along with a return postage paid Priority Mail envelope/box to you via USPS today.

Dave, you are very kind to offer your services and I am obliged to you. I understand that you are retired. I am a book dealer and if there is book, in or out-of-print, that I can get for you as way of saying thanks, please let me know. Alternatively, I could order an extra copy of Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual and sent it to someone for you as a gift.
 
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Binding Pin

Howdy Dominic,

The light binding is fairly typical of most Norinco barrel fit, and probably isn't causing the problem. it may not need to be re-linked at all. When I see that condition, most of the time, slightly relieving the link's hole at the top...about .002 or .003 inch will take care of it.

Yeah...That little extractor tweak is the nuts ain't it? :cool:

The clearance can be checked with strips of typing paper...which is about .004-inch thick for 20-bond paper.

If Dave can dress the lugs and square'em up...ya might get lucky and salvage this one if he can get the linkdown clearance opened up a little.

Luck to ya!

Dave! Goodonya for tryin' to help the man! That's the sprirt!
 
Thanks to both Tuner and Dominic. I will report on the condition of the barrel. I never mess with the slide stop hole on the link. I have never had to. Ken Hallock told me all about that 20 years ago and some people use it but I don't. I do not like any slop in guns and I am sure all of you are tired of hearing that. "There are a lot of ways to skin a cat " as Grandma used to say! If the barrel gets here first I have links and pins in stock and I won't wait for Brownell's.
 
What a pleasaure to see one of these nice Norinco barrels again! It just arrived and I am glad to report that no major damage has been done to it. It has several problem areas, though and I will clean them up for Dominic. He was nice enough to sed an return prority mail box and the postage which was not neccesary, but thanks! I am going to put a chamber check notch in the hood and return it in Monday's mail. I want to take some before and after pictures for THR boys and girls and show you the things we look for when correcting problems. I will start a new thread for this lesson. This barrel is far from hurt and just needs some of my "Just Lucky, I guess" hands on help.
 
I've done a lot more for less worthy people, Tuner. You know better than most that Captain Eagle never likes to miss a chance at being a hero! Thanks for your very kind words. I will keep you posted.
 
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