USSR
Member
A standard 700P with it's H-S Precision stock is not heavy. Now HERE'S a heavy rifle (16+#) setup in .30-06, for slinging .300WM equivalent loads.
Don
300 win mag: options for reducing recoil
- Thread starter Tarvis
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A standard 700P with it's H-S Precision stock is not heavy. Now HERE'S a heavy rifle (16+#) setup in .30-06, for slinging .300WM equivalent loads.
Don
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2007
- Messages
- 13,146
Do: (in order)
-Good recoil pad (Pachmayr, TruGlo, Limbsaver, etc.)
-Use a Caldwell Lead Sled http://www.caldwellshooting.com/
-Add mass (heavier stock - wood instead of plastic, add lead weights to stock, etc.)
-Reduced recoil loads (either factory Remington referenced above, or downloaded handloads)
-Use proper technique - hold the butt "close-in, low, and tight"
-Wear garment with padding on the shoulder
-Suppressor
Don't:
-Muzzle brake (not worth the noise - I also hate them)
Just my opinion.
-Good recoil pad (Pachmayr, TruGlo, Limbsaver, etc.)
-Use a Caldwell Lead Sled http://www.caldwellshooting.com/
-Add mass (heavier stock - wood instead of plastic, add lead weights to stock, etc.)
-Reduced recoil loads (either factory Remington referenced above, or downloaded handloads)
-Use proper technique - hold the butt "close-in, low, and tight"
-Wear garment with padding on the shoulder
-Suppressor
Don't:
-Muzzle brake (not worth the noise - I also hate them)
Just my opinion.
dstorm1911
Member
O.k now I'm confused, you said
and then your next post
So how is it going to have any effect on ya not getting kicked while hunting if your simply going to take it off if your hunting???
As far as hearing protection.... unless ya wanna lose an ear drum ya needa be wearing something anytime your shooting especially a .300 WM as far as the brake...... are ya sure your not just WANTING to have a brake for the "cool factor" on the range etc? After all if your going to remove it for hunting then it has no effect regarding the problem of ya getting kicked while hunting.... also taking it on and off will usually give ya two different POI
Tarvis said:
and then your next post
Tarvis said:
So how is it going to have any effect on ya not getting kicked while hunting if your simply going to take it off if your hunting???
As far as hearing protection.... unless ya wanna lose an ear drum ya needa be wearing something anytime your shooting especially a .300 WM as far as the brake...... are ya sure your not just WANTING to have a brake for the "cool factor" on the range etc? After all if your going to remove it for hunting then it has no effect regarding the problem of ya getting kicked while hunting.... also taking it on and off will usually give ya two different POI
Tarvis
Member
When I shoot groups and possibly take a class or two, the recoil from 30-40 rounds is too much. Could very well be bad technique, but all the same something has to be done.
What I was getting at in regards to hunting was that I may want to pull off the brake for hunting so I don't go deaf, in which case a mechanical recoil reducer would be good, along with a better pad. I didn't have a problem with the noise last year hunting elk with no hearing protection, but I think it would be absolutely necessary with a brake.
. I don't shoot at a range, I'm usually in the BLM ground or private ground and I don't really care what it looks like.
Well, I think I'm going to stick with just the pad for now. I may go with a brake in the future, possibly even the internal device, but I think I'll just try the pad and tinker with my handloads.
What is the best way to shoulder a rifle when shooting from prone? That may be part of my problem, as it seems like the butt gets pretty close to my collar bone.
USSR: that there is a purdy rifle. Did you custom build it, or is the barreled action factory?
What I was getting at in regards to hunting was that I may want to pull off the brake for hunting so I don't go deaf, in which case a mechanical recoil reducer would be good, along with a better pad. I didn't have a problem with the noise last year hunting elk with no hearing protection, but I think it would be absolutely necessary with a brake.
Pretty sure
. I don't shoot at a range, I'm usually in the BLM ground or private ground and I don't really care what it looks like. Well, I think I'm going to stick with just the pad for now. I may go with a brake in the future, possibly even the internal device, but I think I'll just try the pad and tinker with my handloads.
What is the best way to shoulder a rifle when shooting from prone? That may be part of my problem, as it seems like the butt gets pretty close to my collar bone.
USSR: that there is a purdy rifle
. Did you custom build it, or is the barreled action factory?R.W.Dale
Member
I have had two really hard kicking rifles that I took two approaches to recoil managment
rifle one was a 300WBY mag Vanguard, I had a scorehigh brake installed. Recoil was greatly reduced. Muzzle blast and noise was greatly increased.
Rifle two is a stevens 200 in 35 whelen, this rifle has a mercury recoil suppressor in the stock and a quality buttpad. Recoil is greatly reduced but the rifle is now quite heavy.
You'll have to decide which approach works best for you. I will add however that I've been next to a rifle with a VIAS brake, in this case a 338wm and I must say it wasn't really any louder than anybody elses 338mag. In light of this I wouldn't even consider anyone else's brake
rifle one was a 300WBY mag Vanguard, I had a scorehigh brake installed. Recoil was greatly reduced. Muzzle blast and noise was greatly increased.
Rifle two is a stevens 200 in 35 whelen, this rifle has a mercury recoil suppressor in the stock and a quality buttpad. Recoil is greatly reduced but the rifle is now quite heavy.
You'll have to decide which approach works best for you. I will add however that I've been next to a rifle with a VIAS brake, in this case a 338wm and I must say it wasn't really any louder than anybody elses 338mag. In light of this I wouldn't even consider anyone else's brake
USSR
Member
Tarvis,
Custom built by Jack Krieger using his MTU contour barrel on a Winchester action, and bedded in a McMillan A2 stock. I feed it a steady diet of 190SMK's at factory .300WM velocities, so I know what you mean about recoil. The added weight does help, but it really takes the rifle out of consideration as a hunting stick.
Don
Vern Humphrey
Member
Bigfoot Wallace, my custom '03 Springfield in .35 Brown-Whelen is about a pound heavier than my Ruger M77 in .30-06. It has a very thick, broad and springy recoil pad, and C.W. Fitch, who built it, knew how to make a stock. The cheekpad recoils away from my face, making it an easy rifle to shoot.
Prone is not good for load development, scope zeroing, or practice. Seated at a bench with a good rest is much more comfortable and definitely allows much more accurate shooting. I will shoot, and have shot, prone if necessary when hunting, but it is always just one shot so recoil is not a problem-if a second shot is necessary, it will nearly always recquire changing position. When shooting prone, especially with a rifle having a stout recoil, the rifle butt must be at a comfortable spot between the collar bone and the "point" of the shoulder, directly (more or less) above the armpit. Too much to either side will increase the sensation, i.e., discomfort, of recoil. Another consideration is the grip on the rifle. I do not touch the foreend of the stock while shooting most of my rifles from a bench rest. BUT, with the .300 Win Mag, I grip the rifle with both hands. This helps protect my eye, my cheek and my shoulder.
Tarvis
Member
I know what you mean. Why did you choose the Winchester action and how much did the stock run you?
I was thinking I would do just the pad and see how I like it, but the more I think about it, the more I'm not sure. At this point, I just may do an internal mechanical recoil device with the pad. That should do the trick, and will be easier on the ears. If the internal device isn't working like I'd hope I could alway add a brake.
If you had to choose between a pad, a brake, and an internal device and nothing what would you choose?
Acera
Member
This guy did my .300, on a Rem. PSS. Great work, and reduced the recoil significantly.
http://www.vandenbergcustom.com/Content/Rifles/Page.html
http://www.vandenbergcustom.com/Content/Rifles/Page.html
Semmerling
Member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2008
- Messages
- 128
Yep, on the brake...help with up yes, back not much without the issues I mentioned...Every heavy rifle I've shot with a decent brake was just ridiculously loud.
Crown...sorry about that one, missed that somehow.
Crown...sorry about that one, missed that somehow.
Moose458
Member
I added a muzzle brake and a good recoil pad on my .300 and reduced felt recoil down to about a .270. Yes the blast is loud, you will only foeget ear protection ONCE. If you are recoil sensitive, it is worth the expense.
Frog48
Member
Remington's Managed Recoil line is great. I shoot it (.30-06) pretty regularly, and its extremely tame, especially when combined with a recoil pad.
Tarvis
Member
I reload so ammo is something I can figure out, just trying to decide on what mods to do to my rifle.
thebear101
Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2008
- Messages
- 51
stick a couple of murcury tubes in the but stock and use the JP break, from Andy
redneck2
Member
This is my Weatherby SC O/U 12 gauge. Probably less felt recoil than a 20 gauge, maybe even in the .410 range. I have a Decelerator on my 1895 .45-70 and even with stout hand loads it's pretty easy to shoot.
If I were shooting yours off the bench, I'd add a Limbsaver or Decelerator along with a PAST shoulder pad.
If I were shooting yours off the bench, I'd add a Limbsaver or Decelerator along with a PAST shoulder pad.
moooose102
Member
I Have A 700 Bdl/300 Win Mag. I Just Had A New Recoil Pad (limbsaver) Put On It, It Is Wonderful. Try This First. If You Want To Tame It Further, A "gentry" Muzzle Brake" Is What You Want. It Reduces The Recoil, And Directs The Sound Away From The Shooter. I Am Going To Have This Done To My 45/70 Guide Gun. It Kicks So Hard, And It Is So Light, That It Wants To Jump Right Out Of My Hands When I Shoot It. But Try The Limbsaver, Or Pachmeyer Decellerator First. It Is The Least Expensive, And Fastest "fix". You Will Love It. One Thing My Gunsmith Told Me Though. You Do Not Want To Store The Gun On The Recoil Pad. If You Are Going To Store It Standing On End, Either Store It Standing On The Barrel, Or Make Up (what I Did) A Stand That Allows The Gun To Sit On 2 Wooden Pegs That Go Into The Screw Holes Of The Pad. That Way, The Pad Does Not Compress Over Time. If It Compresses, It Will Not Function The Way It Should.
That's a great looking rifle!!!
I don't think muzzle breaks are that loud, given that my range time is usually BLM land in the boonies.
I've also found that when hunting felt recoil is something you're not thinking about, but when sighting in and paper punching it is, so maybe having it on the gun when practicing, and removing it for hunting (so you don't have to carry ear protection) is good.
I didn't start carrying ear protection until I shot my 460 with the 1" 360 degree brake without ear protection (by accident) once, and suffered for a week. That's one LOUD mother!
I doubt your win mag would be that loud. I've been next to my father when he shot his 300 win mag and neither of us had protection on, and the elk we were focused on took our minds off the sound. yes, i know we'll all suffer hearing loss from that shot he took, but in all reailty, it's probably not any louder than the music i crank in my pickup!!!
I'll be deaf.
I don't think muzzle breaks are that loud, given that my range time is usually BLM land in the boonies.
I've also found that when hunting felt recoil is something you're not thinking about, but when sighting in and paper punching it is, so maybe having it on the gun when practicing, and removing it for hunting (so you don't have to carry ear protection) is good.
I didn't start carrying ear protection until I shot my 460 with the 1" 360 degree brake without ear protection (by accident) once, and suffered for a week. That's one LOUD mother!
I doubt your win mag would be that loud. I've been next to my father when he shot his 300 win mag and neither of us had protection on, and the elk we were focused on took our minds off the sound. yes, i know we'll all suffer hearing loss from that shot he took, but in all reailty, it's probably not any louder than the music i crank in my pickup!!!
I'll be deaf.
No experience with the "recoil reducer" but the science is solid.This would be silly on a hunting gun as it is quite heavy,but for a bench or blind gun might be the way to go.
A break can be brutal and will only be the most effective with the heaviest of loads. I have a friend who has the two piece model on several of his heavy guns (350 mags and such) He mounts the break and it saves him from some of the pounding during load development and practise. then he mounts the blank end and checks the load and zero (it can shift) and he is off to the hunt. Expensive!
A really good thick soft pad will be the most effective for your problem, not knocking your smith but 1/2 or better of that price was labor in fitting which can be done with common tools yourself.
Lots of the recoil that you feel is the result of stock shape and fit. I have had days at the range shooting others guns where one gun pounds the dickens out of me and another brand with the same pad and caliber is easy to shoot. Other than shooting I can't tell you how to find out but sugest that along with the pad get several spacers so you can try a stock slightly longer which may improve things.
As others have said the "reduced recoil" loads and lighter reloads with lighter ,slower bullets will certainally help but I expect you got the 300 because you wanted the power. Possibly whip up some reduced loads for practise and general shooting,saveing the full power stuff for when you need it. With the cost of factory ammo you should be reloading for that gun now . Be carefull about shooting to much of the heavy stuff,if you learn to flinch it is a stinker to un-learn it
A break can be brutal and will only be the most effective with the heaviest of loads. I have a friend who has the two piece model on several of his heavy guns (350 mags and such) He mounts the break and it saves him from some of the pounding during load development and practise. then he mounts the blank end and checks the load and zero (it can shift) and he is off to the hunt. Expensive!
A really good thick soft pad will be the most effective for your problem, not knocking your smith but 1/2 or better of that price was labor in fitting which can be done with common tools yourself.
Lots of the recoil that you feel is the result of stock shape and fit. I have had days at the range shooting others guns where one gun pounds the dickens out of me and another brand with the same pad and caliber is easy to shoot. Other than shooting I can't tell you how to find out but sugest that along with the pad get several spacers so you can try a stock slightly longer which may improve things.
As others have said the "reduced recoil" loads and lighter reloads with lighter ,slower bullets will certainally help but I expect you got the 300 because you wanted the power. Possibly whip up some reduced loads for practise and general shooting,saveing the full power stuff for when you need it. With the cost of factory ammo you should be reloading for that gun now . Be carefull about shooting to much of the heavy stuff,if you learn to flinch it is a stinker to un-learn it
USSR
Member
I prefer the Winchester action over any other factory action; stiffer and has a flatbottom. I think I paid $425 for the stock about 9 years ago.
Don
Tarvis
Member
Well, after much thinking and flip flopping decisions, I'm going to go with a brake and a pad. Thanks for all the info, I'll post my results.
Tarvis
Member
Update on the results:
With 165gr bullets she kicks like a 12 year old. I'm not sure how much the pad helps, but the rifle isn't too loud from the shooters position.
With 165gr bullets she kicks like a 12 year old. I'm not sure how much the pad helps, but the rifle isn't too loud from the shooters position.
Master of Arms
Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2008
- Messages
- 336
Listen, You don`t have to spend lots of money or buy some extravegant, pardon the spelling, device to reduce recoil.
There is one thing that will knock it right out. A LIMBSAVER> I have one on my 7mm mag and one on my 300 win mag. The one on my .300 mag is mounted in the place of the factory pad. You can get an exact match at your local sporting goods store or from the internet.
Another thing you can do is buy a laminated stock. I found one at the ebay store "Stocky`s" for a little over a hundred bucks. It`s a little heavier but not enough to weight me down. If you do these things your recoil will be no more than a bird shot in a 20 guage. The Limbsaver recoil pad made all of the difference in the world.
The limbsaver will do the job. The limbsaver plus the stock will do the job X 2
The stock came unfinished at my request. I don`t like shiny or glossy finishes on my hunting equipment. I don`t use anything that shines or reflects light. I sanded the stock down a little and then oiled it with boiled linseed oil for a few days. I then coated it a few times with a satin poly. I can make stocks look like mirrors as I`ve finished quite a few but I don`t prefer it myself.
There is one thing that will knock it right out. A LIMBSAVER> I have one on my 7mm mag and one on my 300 win mag. The one on my .300 mag is mounted in the place of the factory pad. You can get an exact match at your local sporting goods store or from the internet.
Another thing you can do is buy a laminated stock. I found one at the ebay store "Stocky`s" for a little over a hundred bucks. It`s a little heavier but not enough to weight me down. If you do these things your recoil will be no more than a bird shot in a 20 guage. The Limbsaver recoil pad made all of the difference in the world.
The limbsaver will do the job. The limbsaver plus the stock will do the job X 2
The stock came unfinished at my request. I don`t like shiny or glossy finishes on my hunting equipment. I don`t use anything that shines or reflects light. I sanded the stock down a little and then oiled it with boiled linseed oil for a few days. I then coated it a few times with a satin poly. I can make stocks look like mirrors as I`ve finished quite a few but I don`t prefer it myself.
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