357 Magnum Load

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Charlie, Obturian, Thx for the pics and references

I have a Lyman 50 manual, but don't refer too it very much because the pics of lyman cast bullets done ever look like the bullets I use, will have to look at it again. Will definitely be acquiring the RNFP bullets now that I have good data.

Last question. I'm assuming FP and FN mean the same thing? or is FN used to differentiate between RN and conical? I looked around the internet and didn't get a straight answer, other than the data can be used if the bullets are of similar design, weight, and height.
As far as I know fp (flat point) and fn (flat nose) mean the same thing.
15866214075427264017373492810614.jpg
The bearing surface area of the bullet is a factor - more bearing surface will equal more pressure. If the weight and material are the same, just start low and work up.
 
Back in November I was loading my S&W 686, .357 6 inch with Alliant 2400 using 158gr FMJ no name bullet.. I also changed up to a sierra bullet with similar results.

I'm getting crazy FPS spread from the chrono. Powder is old (15 yrs) but it smells ok and was kept cool and dry..

Shooting 38 special weak loads results in much better FPS spread and much lower std deviations..

Here is with 12grs of 2400, indoor range so the temp was 68-72..
158gr FMJ
Stats - Average,1136.82,fps
Stats - Highest,1222.75,fps
Stats - Lowest,1008,fps
Stats - Ext. Spread,214.75,fps
Stats - Std. Dev,54.67,fps

I also tried boosting the powder to 12.5 (no chrono results close by at the moment) and the results were similar, but of course the fps was a little higher.
 
Charlie, Obturian, Thx for the pics and references

I have a Lyman 50 manual, but don't refer too it very much because the pics of lyman cast bullets done ever look like the bullets I use, will have to look at it again. Will definitely be acquiring the RNFP bullets now that I have good data.

Last question. I'm assuming FP and FN mean the same thing? or is FN used to differentiate between RN and conical? I looked around the internet and didn't get a straight answer, other than the data can be used if the bullets are of similar design, weight, and height.
That's the lyman casting manual and the perfect companion to the 50th.
 
Charlie, Obturian, Thx for the pics and references

I have a Lyman 50 manual, but don't refer too it very much because the pics of lyman cast bullets done ever look like the bullets I use, will have to look at it again. Will definitely be acquiring the RNFP bullets now that I have good data.

Last question. I'm assuming FP and FN mean the same thing? or is FN used to differentiate between RN and conical? I looked around the internet and didn't get a straight answer, other than the data can be used if the bullets are of similar design, weight, and height.
Lyman has two manuals. If you are doing much with lead bullets, you should get the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook.
 
My primary load (elmer Keith's too) is a swc over 14 grains of 2400. Been using it for years and others have used the same load since the 357 was new. I use laser cast or Missouri bullets and have no problem with leading. I produce that load by the hundreds, plain base- no gas check.
---in many manuals this is a half grain over max, even with 13.5 grains it does very well.

Here's the 350 I just finished up, still sitting on the bench, ready to be stowed away
View attachment 907319
Obturation,

Nice and shiny. Quick question, that crimp looks much firmer than what I typically apply (I typically go with a mild crimp). Is that personal preference, or is that required when using 2400 to prevent movement due to recoil? The 357 bullets I just put together don't have a tight a crimp. TIA
I think @Obturation 's reloads look great. My crimp isn't quite that much, but close, I bet his shoot great.

I am also shooting 158 Gr SWCs (coated at the moment), but am using 14.5 Grs 2400 instead of 14.0.

Not good pics, but here they are.....
Medium Roll Crimp on ACME 158 Gr SWC .357 Mag Pic 1.JPG Medium Roll Crimp on ACME 158 Gr SWC .357 Mag Pic 2.JPG
 
One of the best shooting .357 bullets I ever used was some generic cast 180grn truncated cone (TC) bullets out of my 4" 686. I always wanted to try those out of a .357 carbine over 2400 or H110...
 
I am also shooting 158 Gr SWCs (coated at the moment), but am using 14.5 Grs 2400 instead of 14.0.
It's really tough to beat that classic load, if I were using a lighter revolver I'd likely go down on the charge a little , but from a 6" gp100 it's just right. A few weeks ago I got a 77/357 and I'm hoping it will do well with this load as well. As long as it holds minute of soup can at 50 yards and doesn't lead the barrel I'll be a happy guy - itching to try it out. I picked up some coated 180 grain MBC bullets to use primarily in the carbine - just in case I need to try something other than powder charge to find a load both can agree on.

I still have several hundred hornady jacketed bullets for 357 but since I started using cast a few years ago I just don't bother with them. Laser cast bulletsvare allegedly 21 brinell , which is hard but I havent had any issues with them even at low pressure - I use them in my 454 casull & 45-70 trailboss loads too, which I thought they would certainly be too hard for, but all is well.

I believe the MCB bullets are 18 brinell , which should be more appropriate. I was reluctant to switch from laser cast because they've been great but there is a cost difference . so I'll tinker with the MCB bullet and see how it turns out (I suspect they'll do very well).

My crimp isn't quite that much, but close, I bet his shoot great.
I adjust my crimp until it just buckles a case and back off about 1/4 turn. It's heavy but as you pointed out, they shoot very well and consistency is more important to me than brass life.
 
12-12.5 grs of 2400 with a 158gr LSWC is a load you can shoot all day. I have use 11grs with out any problems, more like a 38+p. 14 grs. with a hornady 158 XTP and my S&W 686 with an 8'' bbl. is a good deer load out to 75yds or more if shot in the right place.
 
Due to lockdown and few empty brass I decided to try 357's today.
Check out my loads. I'm wondering about it as other manuals start out a full grain less than I am using.
The bullets are RMR 158 grain SWC with Hi-Tech coating. My Lee manual says 6.2 grains of W231for a lead bullet. I fired one in my Smith 19 and it was pleasant to shoot, accurate, and had no signs of pressure. The book says a little over 1100 fps, but I have not chrono'ed it yet.
Any comments about this load will be appreciated.
 
Crazy let us know your thoughts on 2400 loads.

All, A quick update on my experience.
Well, I finally got a chance to get out to the range. Aside from having to have a facemask for the duration, it was nice to get out.
I tried my GP100 357 with the 125 grain and 16.2 grains of 2400. I will admit, that since it was my first time, and the fact that this was more than double the powder I have ever used for any caliber I reloaded, I held my testacles.......

It was one heck of a light show. Every round put out quite a bit of flash. I fired 24 rounds then decided on trying out the 158 grain ACME HiTEK coated bullets. These had 12.2 grains of 2400, this load felt awesome. While not a light show like the 125gr FMJ HP Speer rounds, I really like the recipe.

I fired another 12 Speer rounds and I forgot, what a flash. I can't help but wonder how it looks when firing it at night or in the dark. I would imagine one would be temporarily blinded.

Overall, I like how the 2400 powder works on magnum loads.

A quick note, I did notice some grains on the counter which probably means that the powder did not burn in its entirety. Would putting a tighter crimp take care of the issue?

Thank again Ericuda, and everyone for your comments on the 357. I'll be shooting the same loads on my Ruger Security 6 on my next outing.

CH
 
Out of a revolver, 2400, H110, and IMR-4227 do put on quite a light show. I have a 4” S&W 19 that I’ve shot some identical to what you describe, and my results are similar. If you put these in a rifle, that flash becomes extra velocity, and those 125 gr Speer will get you close to 2000 FPS.
 
Señor PicaPiedras (Mr. Flinstone) ;-)

2000 FPS. Man that is fast. Was thinking about getting a 357 lever action, but couldn't decide between that or a 44 Lever action. That definitely gives it a +1 for a 357.

Not to mention, I don't particularly like the way a 44 magnum feels on a revolver. Of course that is factory Hornady critical defense. I've been toying with the idea of a light 44 magnum load, but haven't gone there yet as I'm liking the 357's potential.

THX

CH
 
Señor PicaPiedras (Mr. Flinstone) ;-)

2000 FPS. Man that is fast. Was thinking about getting a 357 lever action, but couldn't decide between that or a 44 Lever action. That definitely gives it a +1 for a 357.

Not to mention, I don't particularly like the way a 44 magnum feels on a revolver. Of course that is factory Hornady critical defense. I've been toying with the idea of a light 44 magnum load, but haven't gone there yet as I'm liking the 357's potential.

THX

CH
Depending on the powder, you can actually get more than that out of a rifle. H110 will put that bullet at close to 2300 FPS. My favorite is 140 grain XTP at ~2000 FPS.
 
out of a 44mag. rifle 20-21 grs. of 2400 with a 240JHP is on par with a 30-30 (using a 170gr. bullet) out to 150yds, after that it drops off real quick
 
Tight crimp + more powder = higher pressure and that's better for powder burn.
There are sweet spots for handloaded cartridges . yours won't be mine, make a ladder of loads and shoot them. See what's cleanest, what's most accurate, what feels right. Often all 3 of those will coincide . I've never gone below 13.0 grains of 2400, I could see some unburned powder, magnums will do that if everything isn't fine tuned between bullet, charge weight & powder choice - some place in there harmony exists.
 
2400 with a good firm crimp with that 125gr HP is a super good load in my guns.... I shoot it with lead too just watch out for leading depending on hardness.... I shoot gas checks when I lean on the cast stuff.
 
Tight crimps are mandatory on magnum pistols! They ensure clean burning of your powder. Try it over a chrono. Tight crimps make more speed in magnums as well as more consistent velocity.
 
Not much for me to add that hasn't already been said, except that I have read in more than one place that regular primers work better with 2400 than magnum primers do.

As far as a light show, H-110 has them all beat in 44mag. I've done 2400, N-110, H-110, and a couple others. When shot back-to-back, the H-110 has more bark and flash.
 
Not much for me to add that hasn't already been said, except that I have read in more than one place that regular primers work better with 2400 than magnum primers do.

As far as a light show, H-110 has them all beat in 44mag. I've done 2400, N-110, H-110, and a couple others. When shot back-to-back, the H-110 has more bark and flash.

Don't forget blue dot!
 
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