380 ACP

[Jackiesman]

Really no reduced power recoil springs for your Glock like other guns. It is a rod and spring combo
No don't start cutting things, Get some different powder and bullets and move on.

Do you only have the one powder?? SR7625??

No, it’s not the only powder I have. But as I known (and others have commented on) you just have the right combination to make things work. I hoped that I would learn a new lesson. And my luck at finding an abundance of 88 grain RemHP,s wasn’t lucky at all. I have tried the powders I have and they just don’t work with the 88’s in the Glock. So as I said earlier in this thread, my buddy with the Walther P380 inherited the 88 gr goodies ( he’s happy with their performance). I will continue to use the 95 grain RN for plinking in the Glock. I have a combination that works fine in that weight bullet, and get about 975 fps over the Crony, with excellent accuracy. But rest assured that I have absolutely no intention of modifying ANY spring in ANY of my guns. Bottom line, I just gave up on the 88’s for the Glock, I’ll just say I’m paying it forward.

 

[rfwobbly]

If I understand correctly, you swap springs. But where do you obtain the different springs.

You can order almost any strength spring for almost any common handgun from Wolff Springs.
https://www.gunsprings.com/

I typically only shoot target loads in my CZ's. Most of the factory recoil springs are around 18 to 20#, so I order a 12, 14, and 16# and swap these around to match the loads. They have spring sets for hammer guns or striker pistols. If I buy a nice older gun and don't know the history, the first thing I do is order a full, standard spring set from Wolff.

And no, I never shorten springs.

 

[Jackiesman]

You can order almost any strength spring for almost any common handgun from Wolff Springs.
https://www.gunsprings.com/

I typically only shoot target loads in my CZ's. Most of the factory recoil springs are around 18 to 20#, so I order a 12, 14, and 16# and swap these around to match the loads. They have spring sets for hammer guns or striker pistols. If I buy a nice older gun and don't know the history, the first thing I do is order a full, standard spring set from Wolff.

And no, I never shorten springs.

I have never heard of them. And although I have only been at this reloading business since the 80’s I have never experienced having a load that wouldn’t eject properly using he given loading data. Old dog - new trick story. Thanks.

 

[Blackpowderwarrior]

Titegroup is the way. Purchase some titrgroup, get a heavier projectile.

I'm willing to bet if you do this your problem will be solved

 

[Rule3]

You can order almost any strength spring for almost any common handgun from Wolff Springs.
https://www.gunsprings.com/

I typically only shoot target loads in my CZ's. Most of the factory recoil springs are around 18 to 20#, so I order a 12, 14, and 16# and swap these around to match the loads. They have spring sets for hammer guns or striker pistols. If I buy a nice older gun and don't know the history, the first thing I do is order a full, standard spring set from Wolff.

And no, I never shorten springs.

Once again there is no reduced power spring.
Not for his Glock 43

 

[rfwobbly]

I have never heard of them. [snip] Old dog - new trick story. Thanks.

This practice is quite common in "action pistol" where shooters want to shoot the lowest power accuracy load to reduce muzzle flip. (Most action pistol targets require 2 shots.) In this way the "follow-up shot" is much faster because the sights remain on the target.
• In terms of "Power Factor", 125 is the minimum legal load. Most competitors are loading in the 127 to 130 PF range, which equates to anemic 9mm bullet speeds around 1030fps ! These low power rounds won't even cock, much less eject from most stock pistols. And this sounds like your situation.
• In truth, it's both the cocking of the hammer AND the strength of the recoil spring which absorb the energy and arrest the rearward motion of the slide. For competition, you would alter both springs and then load with a very soft primer, like Federal. But for what you're doing, keep the hammer spring stock and simply play with different recoil springs. That will help keep changes at the range very simple a straightforward.

Hope this helps
.

 

[Jackiesman]

I have never heard of them (Wolf). And although I have only been at this reloading business since the 80’s I have never experienced having a load that wouldn’t eject properly using the given loading data. Old dog - new trick story. Thanks, but I’m sticking to 95 and 115 grain. But for what it’s worth my stock Glock 42 will not cycle 95gr REM RN or 100 grain Berry FNHB (reliably, usually 2 of 5 won’t eject) using SR 7625 at the top of the ladder. However, Unique (at mid ladder, using Fed 500 [email protected] COL) gives my Glock 42 a very consistent velocity and outstanding accuracy at self defense range. I was so impressed I loaded 50 more for plinking. I can’t argue with a 1 Inch group at 30-35 ft over the bags. Happy camper here, having fun. Is there a problem- you bet. I used it so much in testing that the laser battery is dead. Last 12 were with iron sights and a larger group. Now I need to find out what Wolf (and others) offer in Glock 42 recoil springs.

 

[Rule3]

This practice is quite common in "action pistol" where shooters want to shoot the lowest power accuracy load to reduce muzzle flip. (Most action pistol targets require 2 shots.) In this way the "follow-up shot" is much faster because the sights remain on the target.
• In terms of "Power Factor", 125 is the minimum legal load. Most competitors are loading in the 127 to 130 PF range, which equates to anemic 9mm bullet speeds around 1030fps ! These low power rounds won't even cock, much less eject from most stock pistols. And this sounds like your situation.
• In truth, it's both the cocking of the hammer AND the strength of the recoil spring which absorb the energy and arrest the rearward motion of the slide. For competition, you would alter both springs and then load with a very soft primer, like Federal. But for what you're doing, keep the hammer spring stock and simply play with different recoil springs. That will help keep changes at the range very simple a straightforward.

Hope this helps
.

Why continue to confuse the OP? What you write may be all well and good for other guns but does not pertain to the OPs Glock 42 which is striker fired, no hammer and there are no reduced recoil spring captive assemblies for it from Gun Springs. (Wolff)


https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#109

 

[Jackiesman]

Why continue to confuse the OP? What you write may be all well and good for other guns but does not pertain to the OPs Glock 42 which is striker fired, no hammer and there are no reduced recoil spring captive assemblies for it from Gun Springs. (Wolff)


https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#109

Thank you.

 

[Jackiesman]

Well folks, the fog gets thicker.

Wife picked up a box of Blazer 380 ACP for plinking today. Got them home and I discovered that they are aluminum cases. That generated a couple questions since I have never heard of aluminum cases (I have had a sheltered life), and I’m low on 380 brass.

Has anyone used them, and has anyone tried reloading them. My thought is that (like steel) fire and deep six the cases. Any thoughts?

 

[Rule3]

Well folks, the fog gets thicker.

Wife picked up a box of Blazer 380 ACP for plinking today. Got them home and I discovered that they are aluminum cases. That generated a couple questions since I have never heard of aluminum cases (I have had a sheltered life), and I’m low on 380 brass.

Has anyone used them, and has anyone tried reloading them. My thought is that (like steel) fire and deep six the cases. Any thoughts?

They are fine for shooting. Intended for one time use, not really for reloading. Yes, some folks have done so but not advisable. Aluminum does not stretch and expand as well as brass, Same with steel. Toss them

 

[Soonerpesek]

Toss them

....................................shoot 'em first.................................

 

[kerreckt]

I have reloaded aluminum cases, something I picked up at the range. 9mm, as I recall. They shot just fine. They were mid range reloads nothing hot. I have not done any experiments to see how many loads, I would get, until they fail. Maybe I should do that just for giggles. Best wishes.

 

[Jackiesman]

• I have reloaded aluminum cases, something I picked up at the range. 9mm, as I recall. They shot just fine. They were mid range reloads nothing hot. I have not done any experiments to see how many loads, I would get, until they fail. Maybe I should do that just for giggles. Best wishes.

  WOW! Now that’s something that I NEVER expected to hear. Does anyone else try this? you said that they shot fine but I’m Wondering if you have had ANY problems with ejection, stuck cartridges, or blown primers. Probably not (from your comment). As you say, I may try reloading ONE 380 just to see the process, just for giggles.

 

[kerreckt]

• 
  WOW! Now that’s something that I NEVER expected to hear. Does anyone else try this? you said that they shot fine but I’m Wondering if you have had ANY problems with ejection, stuck cartridges, or blown primers. Probably not (from your comment). As you say, I may try reloading ONE 380 just to see the process, just for giggles.

No problems. It ejected. It was not damaged in any way. This was a pistol that has a fully supported chamber. I started saving aluminum cases. For emergency purposes. No one knows where the world is going. Best wishes

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

Aluminum cases can be reloaded once or twice - if they are boxer primed. After the second time most will split at the neck. Some will split first try at sizing.

Most of the aluminum case handgun ammo I've seen is Berdan primed. I think there are 2 reasons why: it's cheaper for the (mostly European) manufacturers, and to discourage reloading.

 

[Jackiesman]

Aluminum cases can be reloaded once or twice - if they are boxer primed. After the second time most will split at the neck. Some will split first try at sizing.

Most of the aluminum case handgun ammo I've seen is Berdan primed. I think there are 2 reasons why: it's cheaper for the (mostly European) manufacturers, and to discourage reloading.

For example that hardly makes it worth the effort. Thanks.

 

[Rule3]

For example that hardly makes it worth the effort. Thanks.

Same with steel cases.Just because it can be done doesn't mean that it should be done.

 

[WeekendReloader]

Brass is so easy to come by, no need to reload aluminum or steel IMO.

 

[rfwobbly]

Why continue to confuse the OP? What you write may be all well and good for other guns but does not pertain to the OPs Glock 42 which is striker fired, no hammer and there are no reduced recoil spring captive assemblies for it from Gun Springs. (Wolff)

https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#109

• The OP does not seem confused to me at all.
• One reason I continue to explain is that the OP asked.
• And, Wolff is not the only source for springs.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

Wrong thread

 

[Artofgolf]

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/handloading-for-the-glock-42-part-iii.760659/

Jackiesman, I used to develop a few loads for the G42 back when it was first introduced. Had good performance with VV and heavier bullets. Hope this is helpful to you.

All the best, AoG

 

[Jackiesman]

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/handloading-for-the-glock-42-part-iii.760659/

Jackiesman, I used to develop a few loads for the G42 back when it was first introduced. Had good performance with VV and heavier bullets. Hope this is helpful to you.

All the best, AoG

Thanks Bud. Everything works in my Glock 42 with the heavier bullets. But the 88 grain I scored a good deal on drove me a little crazy until I gave them to my buddy who can use them in his Walther.

 

[Jackiesman]

Brass is so easy to come by, no need to reload aluminum or steel IMO.

Oh? Easy to come by? My store currently has zero (0). And the brass that I order on line is very expensive. What’s your state? I “MAY” try reloading anything that will give me a few more blinkers rounds, but only the best goes into my hunting and defense rounds, On those I’m pretty picky and wouldn’t use steel or aluminum.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Oh? Easy to come by? My store currently has zero (0). And the brass that I order on line is very expensive. What’s your state? I “MAY” try reloading anything that will give me a few more blinkers rounds, but only the best goes into my hunting and defense rounds, On those I’m pretty picky and wouldn’t use steel or aluminum.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/938736249
$29 shipped for 500 is pretty cheap.

I am not associated with the seller in the listed auction, nor do I recommend any auction site or seller. Site listing is provided as an example of average online pricing for cleaned, used .380ACP brass.