9MM brass…any preference?

Buzznrose

Buzznrose

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I am almost always a middle of the powder range kinda guy. I don’t really worry about bullseye accuracy or most efficient amount of powder I’m using. If a powder range is 5.0 to 6.0, I’ll most likely load at 5.5 and as long as it’s accuracy is good in my usual guns I’m good with that.

But I’ve kinda ventured into some spicy 9MM loads with Hornady XTP’s, as a way to practice shooting carry ammo. It’s NOT exact and I’m good with that…but it’s close enough, both accuracy and recoil wise, to be more realistic than my normal range level ammo.

I tried out my load using Starline brass, which I trust up to the max 9MM load (124 XTP over 5.5 gr 3N37) and it shoots great in my Tupperware blaster. But I want to load up a few hundred and don’t have that much Starline on hand. But I have gallons of other brass…

So my question that I think I know but want the experience of this forum to confirm…should I sort out a certain head-stamp (FC, WIN, PMC, GECO, Blazer, etc.) or am I pretty much good to go with any used brass in good shape.

Follow up question is “any head-stamp to avoid”?

Thanks!
 
Never used Geco or PMC, but Win, FC, Blazer, Speer are gtg.
I load for accuracy in a carbine, so I sort by head stamp and toss any military brass or brands I don’t like.
Blazer is probably my favorite, always seem to get good groups from the bench with it, and someone at my club leaves a lot of it on the ground.
Was shooting this morning with Blazer, Win 115 jhp and a spicy load of W231, no stress on the brass or primer, good accuracy at 100 yards.
 
PO2Hammer said:
Never used Geco or PMC, but Win, FC, Blazer, Speer are gtg.
I load for accuracy in a carbine, so I sort by head stamp and toss any military brass or brands I don’t like.
Blazer is probably my favorite, always seem to get good groups from the bench with it, and someone at my club leaves a lot of it on the ground.
Was shooting this morning with Blazer, Win 115 jhp and a spicy load of W231, no stress on the brass or primer, good accuracy at 100 yards.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
I like thicker brass because of better neck tension with jacketed bullets like XTPs or RMR. I have reliable “spicy” ammo loaded up with RMR Nukes and S&B, CBC, PPU and Norma brass. Those head stamps, with my dies (Lee) and jacketed bullets are very reliable, accurate and have great neck tension. I avoid thin brass like FC, Speer and Blazer for this application.
 
PMC & magtech often have off center flash hloes. Very amnoying when you break pins. Use only commercial brass sorted by headstamp & adjust your dies for each sort. I kinda like Win brass, but thats more of an availability thing. S&B brass tends to be a bit on the hard side & tends to crack after just a few loadings.
 
S&B varies in wall thickness so I avoid it and Fiocchi & Perfecta frequently have off center flash holes that interrup your reloading.
R&P has been surprisingly very good if using lube to expand along with Blazer, FC, Speer Without lube.
For me R&P builds up on the expander too quickey and starts galling the inside of the cases unless there is lube.
 
RP, WIN (the non-crimped, non-milspec version,) FC, and PMC for my 9mm brass... or any handgun brass for that matter. I generally scrap the rest. In my experience, they have been the least trouble, and provide consistent handloads.
 
Hartkopf said:
View attachment 1169415

Spicy load with WIN brass. Got a scorched trigger finger and had to pick my magazine up off the ground.
Click to expand...
Might want to back off just a wee bit with an unsupported chamber. I mean, no offense, I‘ve run hot enough to need slide buffers to keep peening down.

Maybe too many times fired on the case? Win is my go-to for hot loads. Starline too.
 
I won't reload 9mm from an unsupported chamber more than a few times. If going hot, I don't think I would do it more than once.

So, depends a bit on what you shot it from and will shoot it through the next time.
 
AMERC is one to avoid. And watch out for any with the internal stepped walls. There are some brass plated steel cases out there, check with a magnet.

I think Aguila often have off-center flash holes. S&B have unchamfered primer pockets that can sometimes be a pain to seat a primer in. I tend to avoid any NATO brass (has a circle with cross emblem) simply because they all have crimped primer pockets that have to be dealt with.

I don't run any +P loads so I am not worried about case wall thickness, so I can't comment on higher pressure cases.
 
Almost any cartridge brass case will work for almost any in-spec load; assuming the case really is brass, not brass washed steel, and cartridge brass, not Muntz metal.
However,
Bcwitt said:
Use only commercial brass sorted by headstamp & adjust your dies for each sort.
Click to expand...
This is excellent advice. Also, anytime you intend to go higher into the pressure invest extra time into case inspection. I only sort pistol brass when I need consistency and that doesn’t always come with the head stamp. Sometimes mixing head stamps but sorting by dimensions and condition makes a bigger difference than same head stamp and mixed condition.
 
When you're pushing the upper limits with powder, you really want as much consistency as you can get to avoid surprises.

I avoid cases with the internal "step" like FM, IMT, Ammoland...although those cases are very popular with folks loading 9mm Major. The thicker cases are stronger for the overload.

Folks who shoot 9mm Major develop loads and usually leave them on the ground after they've been used once or twice (This is a good reason to avoid max loads in range pick-up cases).

I've also seen several case failures (like in Post #6 above) with folks all loading W-W cases...just loaded to mid-range levels (130PF) ...so I avoid using W-W cases also (I usually give away any I pickup)
 
I use the domestic brands, Rem, Win, Fed and so on. I sort them by headstamp and again when I running them through the ultra sonic. The cases with the least amount of use will be the cleanest. Once fired look like unfired, brand new brass. So, when I pull a batch out of there, I chuck the dirtiest ones as they have been fired the most, they are permanently stained. Then I give what's left a good looking at.
 
FC, Speer/Blazer, WIN are preferred and the rest go into the scrap pile. I also scrap RP brass because the rim is chamfered and seems to be a smidge small such that they sometimes pull out of the shell holder.

Charlie98 said:
RP, WIN (the non-crimped, non-milspec version,) FC, and PMC for my 9mm brass... or any handgun brass for that matter. I generally scrap the rest. In my experience, they have been the least trouble, and provide consistent handloads.
Click to expand...

chevrofreak said:
I load a lot of 9mm Major and my preferred mix of brass is Win, RP, FC, and CCI/Speer/Blazer.
Click to expand...
 
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