9MM brass…any preference?

I don’t shoot at ranges any more where lots of varying brass is laying on the ground. Mostly, I can shoot off my back porch.

I prefer domestic compamies head stemp cases, I have had trouble with “WIN” headstamp cases. “W-W” cases work just fine.

As I cycle through my stash of cases, if any give me trouble fitting the shell holder, they get culled. Usually, they are odd ball headstamped.

I shoot primarily plinking loads not competition so I’m not super fussy about my reloads.
 
I had that happen with some reman. loads with Win. brass, it cracked the frame on my XDS. I use 9x19 Win brass for 9x18 Mak it works well there.
Absolutely, 9Mak is expensive and hard to find. 9Luger is free mostly and just about everywhere. It’s a no brainer.
Inspect and cull, avoid high pressure with random range pickup and normalize cases as much as possible. Anything else?
 
9x19 brass? there must a hundred different head stamps, any chance any of those are the same? maybe a few I guess.
 
As per most here, I've had great luck with Blazer,Win,Fed. Didn't have great luck with Ammo inc, or Agular as they were done after being shot 2 times. Some of the ammo inc was done after the first shot.
 
I have jars and bags full of CBC, S&B, PMC, GFL, FED, WIN, REM, LAX, Blazer, Hornady and so on. All the other headstamps gets thrown in the mixed brass jar. Every time I sort brass, I find new headstamps I never heard of. I don't load them.

Red Army is one that gets pitched, only because it's Russian. I won't support their cause through sales or any other way. It does look like quality brass though; I have to admit.

GFL is good brass except for the flash hole being off center.

Aquila sucks, primer pockets are all over the place for tightness and crimps. They resize hard. When I shoot my last Aquila loads, they're going in the scrap bucket.

I load S&B brass, because it's a big seller around here so the brass I pick up is mostly once fired and I get a lot of it. It's a stiffer brass and has tight primer pockets.
I will only load one headstamp at a time anymore.

Loading mixed 9mm brass drove me nuts with each case feeling different going through my presses. Guess I'm to OCD about those things.

I was always stopping to see why this case resized so hard, (Oh, it's an S&B), why did that primer feel different from the rest, (S&B or Aguila) and the different lengths made it hard to set my crimp die the way I wanted it.
At least loading sorted brass, I know what to expect from each brand and the lengths are closer, so my crimps are more consistent.

We don't have any gun games around here, so I don't worry about picking up brass that was loaded for Major. The closest one is between 2-3 hr away.
Brass I pick up is all shot by the locals and it's pretty safe it's factory loaded brass because there's not a lot of reloaders around here.

My loaded rounds all pass my gage after their loaded, I found my gage's biggest enemy was my crimp die. I replaced the RCBS crimp die with a Lyman Professional micrometer crimp die I bought for half price and it's been great. My RCBS crimp die was always making very small brass dust on my shell plate.

My RCBS sizing die does a good job of taking care of the bulges for me because I never find them while gaging my finished rounds. I've found and tested guppy bellied brass and RCBS resizing die always get the belly ironed out. They are hard to use in a progressive though because they have such a small flare on them, I have to guide a lot of cases into it while loading.

I guess that's the tradeoff between it and a Dillon die with a large flare, that's easier to use, but doesn't get the bulge all out.
 
Red Army is one that gets pitched, only because it's Russian. I won't support their cause through sales or any other way. It does look like quality brass though; I have to admit.
Do you seriously believe that that brass is related to that "Red Army"

I load S&B brass, because it's a big seller around here so the brass I pick up is mostly once fired and I get a lot of it. It's a stiffer brass and has tight primer pockets.
I swage S&B cases along with the military surplus I pick up
I replaced the RCBS crimp die with a Lyman Professional micrometer crimp die I bought for half price and it's been great.
I've used a Redding micrometer crimp die on .38Spl...it was really nice

I'm currently crimping my 9mm with a Redding Profile Crimp die and finally have it right where I want it, not going to be adjusting it, for the cases I most often load...
 
I prefer to use what I can find and have a lot of. I pickup and have a lot of Win and Rem so I use these for my plinking ammo. Federal is next and I'll load cast LHP with those. Next is Speer. I plan to reload them with Gold Dots
 
I gather 2 to 3 thousand 9mm cases each week. Winchester is the most common HS so that is what I set aside. I have a five gallon bucket full of WIN. I've stopped sorting the Winchester out of the brass I find.
 
Do you seriously believe that that brass is related to that "Red Army"
A search brought this up.
”Manufacturer: Red Army Standard
Country of Origin: Russia
Importer: Century Arms Inc. (CAI)
Caliber: 7.62x39mm
Weight: 124 Grain
Casing: Steel
Core: Lead

Additional Features: Berdan primer, non-corrosive, boat tail bullet, military grade sealant to extend shelf life.”


Some of it's made in Ukraine, some is made in Poland, and some is made in Russia. Owned by Tula of Tula, Russia.
 
A search brought this up.
”Manufacturer: Red Army Standard
Country of Origin: Russia
Importer: Century Arms Inc. (CAI)
Caliber: 7.62x39mm
Weight: 124 Grain
Casing: Steel
Core: Lead

Additional Features: Berdan primer, non-corrosive, boat tail bullet, military grade sealant to extend shelf life.”
The ammunition you're referring to isn't the 9mm (9x19mm) that we are discussing in this thread. That ammo is imported by Century Arms International (CAI)...it's all just Marketing...and doesn't include 9x19mm ammo

The Red Army 9mm ammo is produced in the Czech Republic by the STV group/technology...and it is quality brass. They also manufacture TSA head stamped 9mm rounds...which doesn't refer to the airport screeners, but to Target Sports Ammunition
 
Am in the process of sorting thru 1,000 mixed head stamp range brass. All the advice above very helpful. Also helps that all of this I'll be loading is one and done......will stay where it falls, so not as picky.

But what bothers me about it is how much I am finding that measures 0.740", which as I understand it is 4 thousands below SAMMI min. Does this get tossed?
 
I prefer to use Blazer, FC, Speer, WIN, & R.P., In no particular order. I’ve loaded many different brands over the years but have narrowed it down to these five. I do sort by headstamp when loading.
 
Am in the process of sorting thru 1,000 mixed head stamp range brass. All the advice above very helpful. Also helps that all of this I'll be loading is one and done......will stay where it falls, so not as picky.

But what bothers me about it is how much I am finding that measures 0.740", which as I understand it is 4 thousands below SAMMI min. Does this get tossed?
Are you measuring before or after sizing? The length will increase slightly when sized.

The only time I check case length is when I case-gauge the loaded rounds. If they sit too low in the case gauge, I may mark them with a red sharpie to be tossed after the next firing, or I pull the bullet and toss immediately if they are excessively short.
 
Measuring before sizing. Some of the factory new brass I have from Starline, RMR, etc is a full 0.010 longer at 0.751. Die that flares the mouth set to seat bullets in brass that measure 0.746, which some of factory new brass does. But in the range pickups, finding some at 0.740. Have yet to try to load any of it. Trying to decide if I want to? Again, one and done. Not going to look for them in the weeds and tall grass.
 
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I'm not that picky, I shoot an action pistol match once a month and leave it lay as we need to keep moving. During the month when I visit the range I do a walk about and pick up the shiny stuff that is mostly once fired factory. I also pick up the brass I shot that day. Tumble, deprime, size in my loadmaster. Then I do the priming off line using a rcbs universal primer. That is where the case gets a good looking at and I can feel for a case that needs swaging.

I shoot a shield or a xdm.

Case sorting and weighing is something I do for rifle ammo.
 
Am in the process of sorting thru 1,000 mixed head stamp range brass. All the advice above very helpful. Also helps that all of this I'll be loading is one and done......will stay where it falls, so not as picky.

But what bothers me about it is how much I am finding that measures 0.740", which as I understand it is 4 thousands below SAMMI min. Does this get tossed?

Are you measuring before or after sizing? The length will increase slightly when sized.

The only time I check case length is when I case-gauge the loaded rounds. If they sit too low in the case gauge, I may mark them with a red sharpie to be tossed after the next firing, or I pull the bullet and toss immediately if they are excessively short.
I agrree with “Toprudder” if you’re looking for a better way to analyze your case lengths that may be too short.
SAAMI provides dimensions for the completed cartridge so refer to those drawings.
The next step is to understand your pistol gage. The L.E. Wilson Pistol Max Gage dimensions will be at Max Case per SAAMI specifications.
This means that if the case head is below the gage surface by .010 your case is at SAAMI minimum case length.
Make sure the inside shoulder of your gage is clean to eliminate erroneous results.
I you’re using a different brand check what it’s machined to.

I don’t check lengths before loading anymore, only after and mark to not reload, much like the suggestion above.
I also don’t discard a case if it’s slightly out of spec. You’ll have to decide what margin of error you can live with.

The SAAMI 9mm print attached for reference:
 

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I use about any of them except Amerc and S&B. The Amerc is just plain junk and possible dangerous and the rims on the S&B don't seem to fit the shell holder and the primer pockets don't fit primers. Both of these go into the scrap brass bucket to get recycled.
 
FC, WIN, RP, BLAZER, SPEER all seem to do well for me. I come across a lot of WIN nato as well and go ahead and ream the primer pocket, good brass though. For any stash of self defense loads I run right to new Starline, which imo is the best and most trusted.
 
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