Also raise the expansion die and the powder dispenser. Both can really mess up a magnum case if you forget to change them. I just finally broke down and got separate sets of dies for spl vs magnum.
A new-to-me adventure coming soon - Reloading for a revolver.
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Also raise the expansion die and the powder dispenser. Both can really mess up a magnum case if you forget to change them. I just finally broke down and got separate sets of dies for spl vs magnum.
tightgroup tiger
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Absolutely.
lightman
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It looks like you have received lots of good advice. One thing I have not seen mentioned is that the length of all revolver cylinders and the position/length of the crimp groove on all 38/357 bullets are not all compatible. Sometimes the loaded length exceeds the length of the cylinder. I suggest loading a few and checking that they don't exceed the length of the cylinder. Most of these "misfits" involve heavier Keith SWC's. Its hard to pull pistol bullets and also hard to seat crimped bullets deeper. If someone else posted this I must have missed it and I apologize. I just don't want you to load a quantity of ammo that won't fit your cylinder.
I have found that loading for revolvers to be both fun and easy. Welcome to the world of revolvers! I also prefer to readjust my dies from 38 to 357 rather than using the washer that comes with the dies.
I have found that loading for revolvers to be both fun and easy. Welcome to the world of revolvers! I also prefer to readjust my dies from 38 to 357 rather than using the washer that comes with the dies.
Heh heh heh!
(1) 357 case was hiding in my (sorted by head stamp) 38 special range pick-ups,,,,
Yeah, it didn't fare too well in the (flaring) die,,, LOL!
I have the 'washer', but nothing is on 'auto-pilot' just yet,,, (K I S S, check check and check again,,)
Everything went good at the range today.
GP-100 was flawless,,,
All of my reloads hit the paper,,,
But,,,, it looks like the shooter needs to learn how to shoot a revolver better!!!
(Brought one of my 9's with me. Did a 'side by side' set,,, Looked like 2 different people we're shooting at it!! LOL!!!)
Life is good!
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Die spacers for .38 Spl/.357 Mag, .44 Spl/.44 Mag, and "no crimp" spacer.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012401468/redding-die-spacer-kit
I have a set, but eventually did like others and bought second sets of dies.
My .38 Spl and .357 dies. I use the same sizer and the same seater for both. Have a roll crimp and taper crimp die for both.
I have all the crimp dies set for heavy and use spacers to adjust the crimps for a lesser crimp.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012401468/redding-die-spacer-kit
I have a set, but eventually did like others and bought second sets of dies.
My .38 Spl and .357 dies. I use the same sizer and the same seater for both. Have a roll crimp and taper crimp die for both.
I have all the crimp dies set for heavy and use spacers to adjust the crimps for a lesser crimp.
FROGO207
Member
I load on a SS press and have to screw in the dies each time anyway. I have a setup brass for flare and a finished setup round for each bullet type I regularly use. Saves me a bit of time each change.
I try to have a spare set of reloading dies for each type I reload for "just because" and set up the second seating die for my most used bullet type. For 38 SPL I own four sets, three of them are not carbide and each one has its seater set for a different bullet. Just the way I do things.
I try to have a spare set of reloading dies for each type I reload for "just because" and set up the second seating die for my most used bullet type. For 38 SPL I own four sets, three of them are not carbide and each one has its seater set for a different bullet. Just the way I do things.
Blue68f100
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You can buy a set of shims like walkalong showed off Amazon for <$10. The set normally starts at 0.0005"-0.001" and steps up 1.125". The set consist of 30 shims or more with a total stack height around 0.25". This will allow you to even adj your crimp without having to move the locking collar on the die.
Doublehelix
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I must be missing something here. I don't see this as quicker that adjusting the crimp die, but I guess if you switch back and forth a lot, it would be.
Can anyone explain in detail for us dummies (me!) how this would work in practice?
Random 8
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I'm a bit late to this party, but waiting for the wife to get ready for Xmas so I'm bored. I started loading .38/.357 about a year ago and it is my favorite cartridge to load for already. Butt simple, dirt cheap. In addition to a random assortment of .38 range brass which I started with like you, I acquired 1000 "once fired" Remington stamped police brass in .38. I forget the vendor, but paid a slight premium for sorted headstamp, but still pretty cheap. Also 200pcs Starline new nickel .357. I've basically settled on 3 loads after some experimentation. 4.5gr HP 38 with an ACME 125 TC cast, not coated in .38 spl brass. I messed around with different charges from lighter to +P and found this one to be most accurate. Very accurate, fairly mild. This bullet is BHN15 so I could ramp it up a little faster if I wished, but haven't done that experiment yet. 158gr TC PENN 18BHN at "mid" .357 levels in the Starline brass over HS-6. This load is remarkably accurate and my go-to for the longer targets in IHMSA field pistol. 158 Nosler JHP at full-max .357 over H110. This is the load that gives the .357 a bad name, but should suffice for Bambi or Yogi should I ever feel the need.
It is plenty fast, and repeatable. Repeatable being the key for me. Leave the locking ring alone, that is the repeatable part, just screw the die in and out of the bushing using the appropriate spacer. Use similar torque each time you tighten the die in the bushing, very easy to do by feel.
Blue68f100
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Walkalone covered it pretty well. I normally place/keep the shims in the die box with a note on what thickness used. Remember to setup the die for the shorter case. Or you will have a problem using the the shims to reduce the height
I'm just not very bright. All the years I owned a single stage press it never occurred to me to use spacers when going going from Spl to Mag. Duh.
Where I log the type of crimp it says something like .... Light Taper, or Medium Taper * (Note the red asterisk.) Then there is always another red asterisk immediately after Comments: * Used .033 spacer under Redding Crimp die.
Any way we do it is fine, as long as we log it somehow so we can repeat it.
I set up seperate tool heads for .38 spl and .357 mag. It just makes life easier.
.38/.357 reloading/shooting is a blast. I've got a Colt Officer's Model Special from 1951 that was converted to SA only. At some point it was a Bullseye gun. Shoots like a laser. I've also got a 586-3 that I shoot.
If you love .38/.357 then you'll go head over heels for the .327 Fed. Big boom, less recoil.
.38/.357 reloading/shooting is a blast. I've got a Colt Officer's Model Special from 1951 that was converted to SA only. At some point it was a Bullseye gun. Shoots like a laser. I've also got a 586-3 that I shoot.
If you love .38/.357 then you'll go head over heels for the .327 Fed. Big boom, less recoil.
RealGun
Member
Very limited gun choices though (327 Fed), none of them ideal IMO until recently. I have the SP101 and Single Seven, but if it had been available earlier, I might have gone with the GP100, especially the Lipseys model in half lug, 5" barrel, blued, 7 round.
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I've got the 4.62" barrel Single Seven. I put new stocks on it and it's a dream to shoot. Extremely accurate.
Zaydok Allen
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You know you like it.And then there is the brass trimming comment from @Walkalong . Gee thanks... just what I need, more work!
I just started loading 38s a little while ago. Honestly if I were the OP, I'd probably buy 1000 new cases from Starline and be set for several decades. I didn't know it at the time but apparently 38 brass lasts a damn long time. I imagine 357 brass would too.
It'll be cheaper in the long run than buying loaded ammo and shooting it to get the cases.
I just recently bought 1000 10mm cases for this reason. The biggest problem will be I'll freak out when I lose any of them. At least that won't be an issue with the revolver.
RealGun
Member
That is what I have too, but the cartridge is a forced fit in that platform, and try as I might, I don't shoot it well, while doing fine with other cartridges and guns..
RealGun
Member
You don't have to buy as many as 1000 at a time from Starline.You know you like it.
I just started loading 38s a little while ago. Honestly if I were the OP, I'd probably buy 1000 new cases from Starline and be set for several decades. I didn't know it at the time but apparently 38 brass lasts a damn long time. I imagine 357 brass would too.
It'll be cheaper in the long run than buying loaded ammo and shooting it to get the cases.
I just recently bought 1000 10mm cases for this reason. The biggest problem will be I'll freak out when I lose any of them. At least that won't be an issue with the revolver.
Don't have to, but at 13.5 cents each for 1,000 357, that's what I did,,,
(The 'Brassaholic' in me still pick's up 38 Special brass at the Range,,,)
Yea, buy new from Starline and the case lengths will be plenty consistent enough not to trim. On the other hand, as long as they last with light loads, trim once, and never again.
Full bore .357? Might have to trim again sometime. Dunno, haven't shot mine enough to tell yet. I have around 200/300 brass I use for "full power" .357 and it takes me a long time to shoot that many, much less shoot them several times each.
George P
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A 40cal brush will clean the chambers as well flaring out a 357 case attached to a small rod to get the crud.
Zaydok Allen
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I'm aware of that but they are cheaper per case that way. OP could certainly get 500 if preferred.
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That would certainly be the easy way to go.
I wish it were true of my match cases. Big sanctioned matches are "Lost Brass" Matches. Even with a revolver, I'm losing 600-800 cases per season
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