Another big fan :mad:

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Special use for one shot

I use one shot for pistol brass. My handgun dies are carbide so that eliminates any stuck cases. I still use the RCBS lube pad for rifle and one shot on the necks. I use a rag with solvent on it to wipe off the lube on the cases after re-sizing. Have done this for so long that I really don't think about it anymore. Sure beats stuck cases.
 
Well I'm getting a collection of lube going here it seems. But so far RCBS in the small bottle has worked fine. And today at Cabelas I found a 4 oz bottle of Hornady that was more like an oil concoction. Both products resized the problem PPU and the Perfecta without getting stuck.
 
I stuck a 223 case a couple of years ago when I was first learning about rifle rounds & lubing.

I've successfully used Hornady One Shot ever since.
I don't know, maybe those with issues with One Shot aren't applying enough lube???

All I can say is it's been ok for me.
 
As I detailed earlier in this Thread, I have experienced no issues using One Shot on 5.56 cases ...

... and last night I juiced-up the face of my AL snow shovel with One Shot, so in the next hour I will found out how well it does at keeping the snow from sticking. <fingers crossed> :)

EDIT: It worked rather well for the first hour, or so, then it, apparently, wore off and I was back to slapping the handle.
 
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I wonder if those unhappy with One Shot, at least the aerosol packaging, missed the instructions to shake the can well before applying.
 
I'm into my second year of reloading and all I have used on multiple cases for varied calibers is One Shot and (knock on wood) I have yet to stick a case. I've been religious about allowing it to dry completely. The one thing I've learned in this thread is I'm not shaking the can near enough and have probably just gotten lucky. I bought a stuck case remover when I started reloading and haven't had to break the package yet, but it was suggested in the beginning to pick one up.

I'm going to keep using it until I don't......see how long that is?
 
I have been reloading for many years and started with one shot lube. It worked for me for many years until I started getting stuck cases. Perhaps I had grown impatient or didn't shake the can enough I don't know. I made the switch to Dillon case lube and have been using it ever since.
What are the ratios for Lanolin alcohol mix for the homade case lube?
 
The recipes I see for Lanolin/Alcohol seem to be 2 oz Lanolin 16 oz 99% Alcohol.

I need to tumble another batch of .223 in order to return to testing the One Shot with vigorous and lengthy shaking. I had very certainly begun to let it dry proper like once suggestions began earlier in the thread.

Of note, the PPU and the Perfecta did size with the RCBS and the Hornady lube that isn't one shot. I have a Wilson case trimmer. Using the holder as a sort of case gauge they don't seat as well as the brass that wasn't giving me trouble. All is fine post sizing but it's clear that brass has swelled a bit more. It's range pickup not my gun. Much of the stuff that gave me no trouble would be my gun. Especially the ZQ1.
 
One Shot is 75% N Hexane. N Hexane is a major constituent in gasoline and is used to extract vegetable oils, and as a solvent in some contact cements.

Its main danger is that it will carry other chemicals and compounds that are dissolved in it into the lungs when inhaled. So whatever else is in One Shot is being carried deep into your lungs when you breathe it.

Safety[edit]
Acute exposure to n-hexane usually occurs by inhalation, but it may be absorbed orally and transdermally. Minor exposures may occur when people fill their automobile fuel tanks with gasoline. Recent research suggests that certain fungi may be able to produce n-hexane.[13]

The acute toxicity of n-hexane is rather low. However, it has been reported to be the most highly toxic member of the alkanes.[citation needed] When n-hexane is ingested, it causes nausea, vertigo, bronchial irritation, intestinal irritation and CNS effects. It has been reported that ~50 g of n-hexane may be fatal to humans[citation needed]. Furthermore, n-hexane is biotransformed to 2-hexanol and further to 2,5-hexanediol by cytochrome P450 mixed function oxidases by omega oxidation. 2,5-Hexanediol may be further oxidized to 2,5-hexanedione, which is neurotoxic and produces a polyneuropathy.[13]

Products with low viscosity such as hexane and other volatile hydrocarbons (petroleum ether) present an extreme aspiration risk. Even small amounts of a low-viscosity material, once aspirated, can involve a significant portion of the lung and produce a chemical pneumonitis. Hydrocarbon pneumonia is an acute hemorrhagic necrotizing disease that can develop within 24 h after the ingestion. Pneumonia may require several weeks for complete resolution. Therefore, gastric lavage is not indicated for hydrocarbon ingestion because of the risk of aspiration if the patient vomits around the lavage tube.[14]

n-Hexane is also used as a solvent in the extraction of oil from seeds (soybean, cottonseed, flaxseed, safflower seed, and others). It is sometimes used as a denaturant for alcohol, and as a cleaning agent in the textile, furniture, and leather industries. It is slowly being replaced with other less toxic solvents.[13]

A peer reviewed study found that inhalation of n-hexane at 5000 ppm for 10 minutes produces marked vertigo; 2500-1000 ppm for 12 hours produces drowsiness, fatigue, loss of appetite, and paresthesia in the distal extremities; 2500-5000 ppm produces muscle weakness, cold pulsation in the extremities, blurred vision, headache and anorexia.[15] The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has set a recommended exposure limit (REL) for hexane isomers (not n-hexane) of 100 ppm (350 mg/m3) over an 8-hour workday.[16]

Occupational hexane poisoning has occurred with Japanese sandal workers, Italian shoe workers,[17] Taiwan press proofing workers, and others.[18] Analysis of Taiwanese workers has shown occupational exposure to substances including n-hexane.[19] In 2010-2011, Chinese workers manufacturing iPhones were reported as having suffered hexane poisoning.[20][21]
 
The recipes I see for Lanolin/Alcohol seem to be 2 oz Lanolin 16 oz 99% Alcohol.

This is all I have ever used. Cheap, goes a LONG way and I have never had a stuck case so I see no need to try any of the more expensive, commercial brands.
 
This is all I have ever used. Cheap, goes a LONG way and I have never had a stuck case so I see no need to try any of the more expensive, commercial brands.

I have Lanolin on order. I think my work vehicle must need something at the auto parts store. (so I can also pick up a red bottle of HEET)
 
I am in the middle of resizing "500" (most are Lake City) 7.62x51 cases that I received from Jeff Bartlett (GIBrass.com) yesterday.

The corrugated cardboard holder that I created awhile back holds 254 5.56 cases or 202 7.62 cases for spray lubrication.

I am using Hornady One Shot.

I am pausing after completing 200 of the initial 202.

With those 2 cases I could tell as I started them into the die (RCBS Small Base mounted in my LCT, btw) that they were too tight, for some unknown reason, so I immediately reversed, removed them and put them aside for later investigation.

Makes me wonder how many One Shot Stuck Case Horror Stories involve cases that, by feel alone, should never have been jammed into the resizing die.

Just wondering ... welp, back to the reloading bench. :)


EDIT: I was wrong! :what:

Those two cases were not properly coated with lube. Once properly lubed, I was able to resize them.

My final totals: 505 immediately usable cases + 5 renovated munched-mouth cases = 510 usable cases. 4 discards due to irreparable massive-munch-mouth.

EDIT#2: It is 7:30pm and I am done ... the 16" floor fan in the basement is now drying everything and all dry equipment has been put away. 250 cases at a time in the F.A.R.T. for 3hrs with s/s pins, some AAW&W and citric acid crystals and they look almost new. Beooootiful. :)
 
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Using the lanolin mix I went back and sized all the culls that started this whole thread no problem. Interestingly, I put the calipers on those cases and they are slightly bigger than the brass that gave me no trouble initially. Being range pickups I have to think someone there has a chamber that's a little oversized.

When I moved that whole batch down the line to trim and prime it was clear there was lube on the cases. I could feel it.

And I've done a tub of 9mm with the One Shot since I posted and no issue there.

But I've got a 4 oz bottle of Lanolin now. I think I'll stick to the home made mix for the rifle brass. :)
 
Those 2 cases probably slid rather than rolled so they were only ½ covered. The feeling returned by those dry areas was not a happy one :eek: ... I am glad that I had not allowed myself to zone-out while doing all of that repetitious work.

I am working thru my last can of One Shot. I, too, have one of those 4oz containers of Lanolin on my bench that I plan on trying when the One Shot is gone. ;)

I think that one thing that I will do in future is get in the habit of "groping" each piece of spray-lubed rifle brass with my now-lube-sloppy fingers as I am moving it towards the press ... same as I do in applying Hornady Unique to my .32-20 cases.
 
I wonder if those unhappy with One Shot, at least the aerosol packaging, missed the instructions to shake the can well before applying.

No, not I; every time a reloader calls me and complains about a stuck case I ask; did you shake the can first?

There are times they sound puzzled/confused because what ever they were using did not come in a can.

F. Guffey
 
But I've got a 4 oz bottle of Lanolin now. I think I'll stick to the home made mix for the rifle brass.

Back in about 1954 Jack O’Conner wrote about lubing cases. It was only about a paragraph long; he was talking about his hands hurting all the time. To manage the problem he used Lanolin; when sizing cases he said he used extra lanolin. Then there is that part about getting lanolin off of the case after sizing. He did not say but I will tell you that stuff is like a magnet to dirt, dust, grit and grime. And then it dries out like a wax casing.

I have never been a fan of greasing my cases so I tumble after sizing.

F. Guffey
 
If you ever stick a case you come to really like Dillon dies the best with Lee coming in 2nd place for ease to get them out. No need to even remove them from the press.
 
Does it resist a basic "soap & water" approach to removal?

I think it would since the solvent is alcohol. But a quick tumble of finished product in corn cob etc. is what I'm hearing cleans it all up.

The other thing about the lanolin is it gets on my hands. Now for me at least in winter I'm always having to smear stuff on them to keep from drying out. So seems like just another added benefit of reloading. :)
 
I think it would since the solvent is alcohol. But a quick tumble of finished product in corn cob etc. is what I'm hearing cleans it all up. ...
What fguffey wrote can be easily construed as meaning that lanolin is difficult to remove, which is why I asked.

O'course, I will be testing its removal prior to ever applying it to any cases ... just figured I would ask someone who seemed to be familiar with the product. ;)

Any lanolin that I use on the cases will be long gone before I even prime the cases.
 
I did one and a half oz into a 12 oz bottle of Heet. It wipes right off. I'm not being fussy about it because I'm loading small test batches that get shot fairly quickly. Most of the residue is winding up on my fingers.

Once I have a load I will commit to and stockpile I plan to just throw them in the tumbler for a final clean.
 
Spray a little rubbing alcohol into your tumbler media and let it mix for a minute then put the oily cases in about 10 or 15 minutes later cases are clean and dry
 
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