AR .22 conversion. Sticky

G

gun'sRgood

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Feb 16, 2021
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I've got a .22 conversion for an AR 15. Don't recall which one. But it sticks about halfway into battery. Or close to battery which allows the trigger to be operational but render soft strikes. I traded uppers and have the same issue. The thing "seems" to function fine out of the upper. Ideas? Thx
 

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Almost every AR to .22lr conversion I have heard others talk about has had problems. There is no way I would even think about doing an AR conversion or letting someone give me one. For that price I could buy a good .22lr rifle without the headaches.
 
AK Hunter said:
Almost every AR to .22lr conversion I have heard others talk about has had problems. There is no way I would even think about doing an AR conversion or letting someone give me one. For that price I could buy a good .22lr rifle without the headaches.
Click to expand...
That’s great thanks



OP make sure it’s clean, lubed, and the ejector/alignment rail in particular is sliding freely in its slot. Also make sure it’s not binding on the charging handle. If it moves freely when out of the rifle then it has to be binding or interfering with something when installed.

My Gen 1 CMMG stainless conversion runs 100%.
 
PLUS:
Is your upper using a military .22 adapter or is it a made for .22 upper?
Will the lower operate normally with a different upper?
Using the charger handle, and the no lower connected, will the bolt rack from back to front and into battery?
With a lower attached, and an empty magazine locked in, will the bolt rack from back to front and into battery?
Is the upper clean, including the bolt, extractor, extractor recess, feed ramp and chamber?
Will a .22 round press into the chamber by hand and come back out easily? (Clean & Dry)
 
Last edited:
One more thing- although you don't, theoretically, need to have the buffer spring installed they usually run better with it. If the spring is removed, the entire conversion bolt can slide backwards out of battery a tiny bit, adding drag.

My AR 22 is built around the old Colt pattern conversion and runs perfectly as long as the buffer and spring are in place. c19.jpg
 
AK Hunter said:
Almost every AR to .22lr conversion I have heard others talk about has had problems. There is no way I would even think about doing an AR conversion or letting someone give me one. For that price I could buy a good .22lr rifle without the headaches.
Click to expand...
Hmmm.... Not like this one.
 
1KPerDay said:
That’s great thanks



OP make sure it’s clean, lubed, and the ejector/alignment rail in particular is sliding freely in its slot. Also make sure it’s not binding on the charging handle. If it moves freely when out of the rifle then it has to be binding or interfering with something when installed.

My Gen 1 CMMG stainless conversion runs 100%.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my thoughts as well, and tried. Thinking of going the other way, clean everything and cover with marker to see where the binding is?
 
DustyRusty said:
PLUS:
Is your upper using a military .22 adapter or is it a made for .22 upper?
Will the lower operate normally with a different upper?
Using the charger handle, and the no lower connected, will the bolt rack from back to front and into battery?
With a lower attached, and an empty magazine locked in, will the bolt rack from back to front and into battery?
Is the upper clean, including the bolt, extractor, extractor recess, feed ramp and chamber?
Will a .22 round press into the chamber by hand and come back out easily? (Clean & Dry)
Click to expand...
K, thx. A bit to unfold. Not military, mill spec. Yes lower works very well on other applications. No, the rub happens w/o a lower. No the same issue with several lowers. Yes, everything is clean an lubed. Or even REALLY lubed. Yes, rounds or no rounds, same issue. Rounds, however may not extract as the sticky happens with bolt going forward into or out of battery. All good questions. I'll check all of these once more. Thx
 
NIGHTLORD40K said:
One more thing- although you don't, theoretically, need to have the buffer spring installed they usually run better with it. If the spring is removed, the entire conversion bolt can slide backwards out of battery a tiny bit, adding drag.

My AR 22 is built around the old Colt pattern conversion and runs perfectly as long as the buffer and spring are in place.View attachment 1188394
Click to expand...
Well I'm jealous. Mines Glock.
 
1KPerDay said:
Excellent point. I run mine with buffers and springs in place. Works great on the three rifles I’ve tried it in.
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I've had it run w/o the bolt and spring but.... It works fine until it's in an upper. Thx all. sigh...
 
Have you tried 'spinning' the chamber? This is a tip used a lot on 22LR semi-auto actions. Chuck a bronze brush up in a cordless drill, add oil of choice, insert brush into the chamber, and pull the trigger ... errr, the one on the drill.
 
OP are you trying to insert this conversion/bolt into a .22 LONG RIFLE chamber or a .223 REMINGTON/WYLDE/5.56x45 chamber? It looks to me like the front part of the assembly (the fake 5.56 "cartridge" that goes into the AR-15 chamber) isn't going in fully.
 
OP…if you can get us some pics of the bolt conversion OUT of the upper that may help.

I am another (very) satisfied CMMG conversion customer. Mine operates *almost* as reliably as if I were using 5.56. I only say *almost* because: .22LR.

I have used it in 3 different uppers (2 PSA one Aero Precision). Once it was broken in on the first one no hangups on the next two.

I will warn you, accuracy with 1:7/1:8 twist barrels isn’t going to win you any matches but for getting folks used to operating the AR platform I think it was worth the $185 I paid for it (with three mags).

PS-anyone who knows where I can get a good .22 rifle for $185 please send me the link. Thanks!
 
BBBBill said:
Now I'm confused. Your WHAT is a Glock? The AR that you're trying to get the .22LR concersion to work in?
Click to expand...
Sorry about that. I'm also battling a cold and got a bit side tracked on a 9mm conversion. CMMG is the one I'm using.
 
Jonah77 said:
OP…if you can get us some pics of the bolt conversion OUT of the upper that may help.

I am another (very) satisfied CMMG conversion customer. Mine operates *almost* as reliably as if I were using 5.56. I only say *almost* because: .22LR.

I have used it in 3 different uppers (2 PSA one Aero Precision). Once it was broken in on the first one no hangups on the next two.

I will warn you, accuracy with 1:7/1:8 twist barrels isn’t going to win you any matches but for getting folks used to operating the AR platform I think it was worth the $185 I paid for it (with three mags).

PS-anyone who knows where I can get a good .22 rifle for $185 please send me the link. Thanks!
Click to expand...
.22.jpg

Am I seeing that the gas tube is riding up on the conversion by ~9/16"? If so, cut the tube? Bend it? This is a range play thing. Fun for the grand kids. If I get it to run. Thx guys.
 
Jonah77 said:
OP…if you can get us some pics of the bolt conversion OUT of the upper that may help.

I am another (very) satisfied CMMG conversion customer. Mine operates *almost* as reliably as if I were using 5.56. I only say *almost* because: .22LR.

I have used it in 3 different uppers (2 PSA one Aero Precision). Once it was broken in on the first one no hangups on the next two.

I will warn you, accuracy with 1:7/1:8 twist barrels isn’t going to win you any matches but for getting folks used to operating the AR platform I think it was worth the $185 I paid for it (with three mags).

PS-anyone who knows where I can get a good .22 rifle for $185 please send me the link. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Please note pic attached in replies. Thx. Ideas?
 
Hmmm... if you don't care about your AR ever being able to run 5.56/.223 again, then I suppose cutting the gas tube could be an option. I'm more concerned about why it's interfering though. Let me go check mine
 
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