Bipod schooling please

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Bubble levels help, you must make sure both the rifle and the scope are level. The cross hairs must be centered over the bore when you shoot and vertical. The reason is that the path of the bullet will be a vertical arc. Your crosshair must be vertical to remain on the path of the bullet at all ranges. Another way is to use a plumb bob so the line is centered in both scope and bore or on a building that you know is plumb. If you scope is plumb with the rifle it doesn't matter if you put the level on the scope or rail. It is more important that the rifle be in the same vertical plane as the center of the scope than the cross hairs perfect at the zero'd range. I am still trying to figure out what bipod to get.
 
Up until 2016 I would just stick with Harris swivel or Atlas bipod.
I had too many experiences with unreliable junk that looked like a Harris.
But now the imitations are getting better. I built some rifles for hunting 2016:
Cheap rifle 308
Expensive rifle 25-06
Light rifle 6mmBR
Heavy rifle. 7mmRM

So I got some cheap bipods.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU6FG6Y/

No bipod problems. I shot two antelope and one mule deer.
 
Varmitinterror, could you show a good, affordable collimator to buy? Maybe that will clarify this for me!

Thanks guys,

Russellc
 
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Whoops, I missed Barts post, I will look at those,

Again, thanks guys!

Russellc
 
Bart B. said:
I think the Sweany Site A Line is the best; I've had mine since 1971. Got a set of Bushnell adjustable spuds cheap at a gun show for it that work well across 22 to 45 caliber bores.

Bushnell's laser bore sighter may be darned near as good. I've thought about buying one, then clamping a barrel in a vice such as the laser spot would be 50 feet away. Then orient the bore sighter every 90 degrees in the barrel to see if its spot went around in a circle. If it does that, it's laser beam is not aligned with the plastic spud in the bore.

I know 7 people who've never made a mistake, error, boo-boo, or other ne'er do well things in life. 'Course they never did anything worthwhile in the first place.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will check these out. Thanks for the use tips as well, that answered a few questions.

Russellc
 
I found it at Brownels, I am sure I will have some questions once I have it in hand.

Thanks for bearing with me.
Russellc
 
For bore sighting, I like the
Leupold® Zero Point™ Boresighter
I have come up with a process to change the LED and change the battery pack.

Here is the 10 second version with 2,000 views

Here is the 32 minute version with 10,000 views
 
Orcon said:
Buy a Harris S-L and either a "pod-lok" kit or buy the parts from T-Nuts and install. The bi-pod swivels and the handle will allow you to lock it down, plus the legs are notched for fast and secure field adjustments.

I can tell you from experience that if you buy a cheap "Harris-style" bi-pod you will ultimately be disappointed, maybe not right away but eventually. I've bought 3 cheap-ohs, and regretted each one. The Harris, on the other hand, was worth every cent.
Click to expand...



I agree, Thats what I use on my 300WM for long shots.
 
"...why there isn't some adjustment..." Cost of manufacturing/designing that would significantly increase the retail price. A cant, even with a bipod, isn't really a good thing anyway.
"...align cross hairs with a plum bob and string..." No you cannot.
"...a cheap "Harris-style" bi-pod..." 'Cheap' being a relative word. $100 plus for something that primarily adds weight isn't exactly cheap.
 
d2wing said:
Bubble levels help, you must make sure both the rifle and the scope are level. The cross hairs must be centered over the bore when you shoot and vertical. The reason is that the path of the bullet will be a vertical arc. Your crosshair must be vertical to remain on the path of the bullet at all ranges. Another way is to use a plumb bob so the line is centered in both scope and bore or on a building that you know is plumb. If you scope is plumb with the rifle it doesn't matter if you put the level on the scope or rail. It is more important that the rifle be in the same vertical plane as the center of the scope than the cross hairs perfect at the zero'd range. I am still trying to figure out what bipod to get.
Click to expand...
I've got the Harris on the way, using a "copy" of it now, but it wasnt expensive so may not be to long lived, but looks just like the Harris.

Russellc
 
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wally said:
I have an inexpensive bipod that QD clips to a rail, the legs extend from a spring loaded "pivot" that allows about +/- 20 degree cant. This is much faster than futzing with trying to perfectly level it by adjusting the legs. Works well for me, but I've not yet been able to get to targets past 300 yards, so I may need better for longer ranges -- its been too wet these past six months to get the brush cleared and dirt work done :(
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips and opinions, much appreciated.

Russellc
 
Sunray said:
"...why there isn't some adjustment..." Cost of manufacturing/designing that would significantly increase the retail price. A cant, even with a bipod, isn't really a good thing anyway.
"...align cross hairs with a plum bob and string..." No you cannot.
"...a cheap "Harris-style" bi-pod..." 'Cheap' being a relative word. $100 plus for something that primarily adds weight isn't exactly cheap.
Click to expand...

Read closer: "Harris style" not Harris....try 25 bucks! With the Atlas I looked at pushing 300, there is plenty of middle room to play.

Russellc
 
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Varminterror said:
The effect of a canted rifle is fairly similar to that of the middle case in this picture below, but the picture itself is meant to illustrate the importance of a colimator, rather than simply a laser boresighter to ensure the reticle is true to the bore. The Orange dot is the POA on of the target picture, with a 4MOA hold-over. The green dot on target is the resulting POI. Even though all 3 cases show the same POA, the POI shifts according to the angle of the reticle vs. truth line to the bore.

CrookedScope_zps68a3a672.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice simple explaination with visual aids!

Russellc
 
Varminterror said:
The effect of a canted rifle is fairly similar to that of the middle case in this picture below, but the picture itself is meant to illustrate the importance of a colimator, rather than simply a laser boresighter to ensure the reticle is true to the bore.

CrookedScope_zps68a3a672.jpg
Click to expand...
+1. I am currently using UTG/Leapers Tactical OP for pistol caliber carbine accuracy testing and it allows infinite adjustment. I tighten one leg and raise other until the cross hairs are plumb and I tighten the knob.

I paid $39 but now it's down to $32 - https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Tactical-Rubber-Center-Height/dp/B0035L35A8
 
I tighten one leg and raise other until the cross hairs are plumb and I tighten the knob.
Click to expand...
Fine if you are shooting at something that isn't going to move, but I prefer some yaw and roll built into the bipod to compensate for uneven ground -- although if its really uneven across the span of the bipod then its going to be difficult to get off a quick stable shot. I've one of those Leapers/UTG bipods and it works almost as good as a sandbag off a portable shooting bench or prone (when the weeds aren't too high) and is a whole lot lighter to carry!
 
Walmart used to sell Winchester branded Harris knock offs. I have a handful of legit Harris bipods, and a handful of the Winchester knock off's. Other than ONE SCREW, I can't tell the difference between the two for weight or stiffness. I've had two of the Winchester knock-off's for almost 20yrs, purchased right after I purchased my first Harris. Can't honestly tell you I noticed any difference when they were new, nor any difference over all of those years.

When I want to go prone and really stabilize my rifle, but not use a machine rest, I'm on a Sinclair ski-pod.
 
If you're going to run up and flop, down a swivel bipod will be quicker because you are the one controlling the angle of the rifle.

On lots of bipods that are mounted ridged to the rifle the feet can be set to any length you want.

If I am shooting from the same position, to the same spot I prefer the "set it and forget it" style though. Should have flopped it the other way for the photo but the one on the right is a pivot that will accommodate greater angles than shown.


image.jpeg

There are also swivel bipods that you can lock into position when you have it where you want it.
 
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Two different things, same wprd: Cant.

Scope cant is near universally bad (although there are Bubbas in legion who disagree o_O). Collimators area great help--if with the occasional hiccup with AR (carry handle scopes are usually way above the collimator).

Cant in bipods is a different sort of thing. If with a touch of debate. Some of the run-and-gunner like a fully rigid bipod, they don't want to waste any precious time futzing about with a bipod while shooting against a timer. It's a legit case to make.

My preference is that the bipod be rigid fore-and-aft, but flexible at the head of the bipod which allows the rifle to be rotated until it' is plumb. So, I like bipod legs tha have very secure length adjustments. Or, to put it a different way, I'm no fan of "infinite" length adjustments with wingnuts or the like for friction fit (friction fit fails when least desired).

I'm a fan of being able to roll (e.g. cant) a rifle over the bipod as shooting benches are seldom as level as they appear.
 
I would absolutely recommend Harris bipods as long as you can decipher their model numbers and know what you're getting. Whether you desire the cant feature depends on where and what you're shooting. For benchrest with a short bipod, I would suggest the friction legs and no cant. The bench is solid and not going to move. The friction legs allow for very minute adjustments and once it's set, you just have to adjust up and down with a rear bag and do not have to be concerned with holding the rifle in the center as it tries to move against the springs that allow the S models to cant.

On uneven ground is where the cant is worth it. The leg notch models give positive, graduated stops of set length. The friction models give unlimited adjustment within the adjustment range, but are difficult to get exactly even. Friction vs. leg notch is really just a shooter's preference. In the field, the cant is great for small adjustments that don't require changing the length of the bipod legs. If you have the bipod set for a certain direction and game comes from a direction that you don't expect, cant won't always make up the difference in the uneven ground if you have to change position. If you're in a hurry (since game doesn't operate on hunter's schedule) and the new position is really out of whack from your previous one, it's usually too late to try to adjust the bipod legs. However, it wouldn't be the first time that a hunter balanced the rifle on only one of the bipod legs for a quick shot.

Last thing, don't think that you need one of those tall, sitting position bipods unless you're hunting big game. At extension, the tall bipods are more wobbly than most realize when shooting from a sitting position. I'm sure someone, somewhere has shot something sub-moa with that setup, but it's not easy.
 
"Pintier, imagine what would happen if your scope was twisted 45 degrees left in its rings when you zeroed it at 100 yards. Then you wanted to adjust it to zero at 300 yards and needed to raise bullet impact 6" by coming up 2 MOA.

What adjustment would you make on the scope with its elevation adjustment twisted 45 degrees left from a line between bore and scope centers with the rifle held upright? 2.8 MOA up on the elevation knob, 2.8 MOA right on the windage knob.

What if the scope was mounted normally so it's elevation adjustment axis was parallel to a line between bore and scope centers? 2 MOA up on the elevation knob."


Thanks, but I understand why you want the scope axis aligned w/ the bore. What I don't get is how a collimator helps. Is the idea that the collimator crosshairs or grid comes from the factory precisely aligned with the spud mount, or is there some optical magic, or what?
 
If you are looking for a bipod recommendation I would just by a Harris. The cant feature on a Harris is there to accommodate for an uneven surface under the bipod, not to align the vertical axis of the scope with the bore. The few bucks you will save buying a cheap bipod or one without a cant feature will be money you wish you had back when you end up buying another bipod. A Harris cant bipod works on a bench and on uneven ground.

The military uses Harris bipods. No point in making this any harder than it needs to be.
 
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