Black Powder Substitutes and Users Deserve Respect

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G'day

i've been playing with non black powder, black powder, and mixes, on and off for years

sugar based

fulminates

and stuff ya cant do now with the laws the way they are..

I'm drawn to it by long term fuctionality

as we all know BP and moisture ... its trouble

but with sugar based mixes drying out is the issue..

and mix of the 2?

anyone have anything to advise? or

is this a serious thread to discuss this or will it be better elsewhere?

cheers

jack
 
With Black Powder ya jus' gotta keep it dry...in the event it gets wet you dry it out and there ya go.
I don't buy or shoot any substitutes cause there's nothin' better than the Holy Black...you can mail order up to 50/lbs. of it. Or a minimum of 5/lb. 10/lb. or 25/lbs... at Powder Inc.
 
Generally, there is more to gain from cooperation than from competition. While I prefer black powder over its substitutes, I cannot fault a shooter for using the latter. Sometimes, it's the only stuff (s)he can get. I can't get it around my area but thanks to the internet, I learned I could (and have) mail ordered the real stuff.
 
When I started shooting BP substitutes many years ago, its all anyone carried around here. :)
Because of all the hype about shipping and BP's unstability, I became parinoid about even thinking of using the real stuff. :uhoh:
Then I stumbled onto the Black Powder forums :what: and after much reading, the temptation was so great :fire: I had to give it a try. So I saddled up and headed out of Oklahoma for Powder Inc. in Central Arkansas to get some real black powder, :cool: and I'm glad I did. :neener: :D

They both go B00oom!, make smoke, and that's the fun of it.
 
Glad I got to this last pic as I was just going to ask the question-
Who makes REAl Holy Black?
I'm with the guys that will shoot whatever goes bang.
Bought 1 jug of 777 to try in my ROA and if I figure the right size lead I will try it in my 1860 too but still need load data.
The quick clean up aspect doesn't bother me a bit-
I am used to dealing with very corrosive ammo in belt fed mgs and instead of messing up a $3-400 pistol its some mighty spendy parts to get ruined so clean up is pro forma fast-
Think about keeping some spray windex or other ammonia based spray near you- drench it down then blow it all out with alcohol brake cleaner, wipe it all down and get back after it and start shooting. Quicker than you think to do-
 
T7 C&B load data: http://www.hodgdon.com/ml-warning.html (check the box and click on 'Get Muzzleloading Data'

Here's the C&B portion:
CAP AND BALL REVOLVER POWDER MEASURE SETTING TRIPLE SEVEN FFFG
36 cal. 1851 Navy Steel Frame 15gr. 20gr.
375 Hdy. RB Ox-Yoke W/Wad 662 832
44 cal. 1858 Rem. Steel Frame 20gr. 25gr.
454 Hdy. RB Ox-Yoke W/Wad 536 763
44 cal. 1860 Army Steel Frame 20gr. 25gr.
451 Spr. RB Ox-Yoke W/Wad 524 592
45 cal. Ruger Old Army 30gr. 35gr.
457 Hdy. RB Ox-Yoke W/Wad 845 987

T7 cleans up with plain old every day cold water. A couple wet patches; a couple dry patches, and a patch sprayed with Balistol is about all it takes to clean my '66 Carbine.
 
Thanks Fingers- Much appreciated-
Gotta go find myself some .451 balls for the 1860 and some of those wonder wads and maybe the wonder seals otherwise I know I will be wearing more Crisco on me than in cylinder. Messy childhood I guess.
 
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