Buying an 80% AR reciever

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ScotZ

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This is strictly for my personal use. Never to be sold etc..... Are there any pitfalls I should look for when purchasing an 80% lower. Is one company better than the next. Titanium over Aluminum advantages/disadvantages? I have access to a full machine shop but I have never attempted a project like this.

Thanks for your time and effort
Scot
 
But then I wouldnt have done the machine work it. That is kind of the point of this project. The only other guns I have ever built were muzzle loaders and that was years ago.

Thanks
Scot
 
Oh, well if you're looking to do machine work, then go for the 20 dollar forging on that site. I have a book, let me upload it, it's about how to finish an AR forging.
 
http://putstuff.putfile.com/54401/7516447

Got it, hope this can be of help to you.

The forging is only 20 dollars, obviously, the saved money will be made up with by time, equivilent exchange, you know? It'd still be cheaper, especially if you have all or most of the tools on hand, and you could buy 5 of the forgings for the price of one 100%, or like 7 for the price of an 80%, and you could complete them and make more rifles or sell them.

A 100% completed reciever only runs like 100 or so, cheaper than any 80% AR-15 reciever I've seen, and it'd be the most hassle free to build.
 
Thanks PK I am at work now. I will download it when I get home. I am exploring all possibilities at this time. It looks like its a bit of a challenge but very doable. I just want the gun to be considered manufactered by me for me.

Thanks again
Scot
 
Couple of tips:
Get one that has the buffer tube hole roughed in. Use the best reamer (floating Shell type) to get the hole right make sure it is straight them ream and tap. I find this the hardest part. Buffer tube tap is most important and specs vary get one from a quality supplier not a cheap one from the fixture folks. Spend the extra 20 bucks here and you will smile later. Make sure the hole is centered where you want it as well as tilt.

If not using a fixture to drill make sure you are square with the part it is hard to eyeball and that is not close enough.

Set the buffer retainer forward from the distance on the drawing and the front of your buffer will like you make sure the buffer will rest on the back of the carrier not the pin or it will eat buffers. Get it no more that 11 degrees tilt.

Most of the ones I have seen you are able to set the width across the trigger group to get it with no slack side to side so have your trigger group in advance. I cut the lower short of the trigger width and polish the trigger down to just slide in. Plan ahead measure well and don't assume that the hog out by the supplier is in the right place left and right. Where do you want yours is the important thing.

Drill the rear pin hole under size then mount your upper in the factory front hole and see where you are so you to get the best pin fit, tight by a couple of thous. You will be making the final top surface where they mate with the upper flat and the right height from the pin holes go slow with a new file lots of test fitting an checking will produce a very nice fit.

Deburr the inside edge of all holes something important goes inside outside deburr is for looks.

Use brand new high quality bits. Don't get cheap at this point and use an old bit once the bit goes through that is your hole. If not using a fixture use a spotting bit to place all holes. The hardest small hole is the bolt release pivot aircraft bits are your friend and spot it by hand first the surface your drilling will be angled I spot it with a dremel. Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate when drilling the holes.

If you get the fixture and drill the holes it will work fine but with a little fore thought you can get a custom fit and great performance. The set up is the fun and mind bending part the actual hole drill or tap should just take seconds set up should take hours. Go off and take a break come back and review the set up then drill or tap.

Good luck.
Oh one last tip:
Don't let your wife see the Amex bill! :evil:
 
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you could buy 5 of the forgings for the price of one 100%, or like 7 for the price of an 80%, and you could complete them and make more rifles or sell them.

It's my understanding you can "make" a firearm for yourself, but can't ever sell it unless you have an FFL06
 
Be very careful about following advice on the internet that involves possible violations of the law.

You could buy a bunch of receiver "blanks", but you have to be very careful that the guns you build are only for your use.
(A6) Does the GCA prohibit anyone from making a handgun, shotgun or rifle? [Back]

With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a non-licensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms.
[18 U.S.C. 922(o) and (r), 26 U.S.C. 5822, 27 CFR 478.39, 479.62 and 479.105]

Never have a friend purchase a finished receiver or firearm for you as this is a straw purchase and illegal.
ATF said:
STRAW PURCHASE
The acquisition of a firearm(s) from a federally licensed firearms dealer by an individual (the “straw” purchaser) for the purpose of concealing the identity of the true intended receiver of the firearm(s).
http://www.atf.gov/firearms/ycgii/1999html/ycgii/app.htm
 
you could buy 5 of the forgings for the price of one 100%, or like 7 for the price of an 80%, and you could complete them and make more rifles or sell them.

You better get you manufactures FFL 07 first, jail is not a nice place, nor is loosing your rights to own firearms ever again.
 
This gun will never be sold. I simply would not want the liability. This is for me persoanally. I cant even imagine all the crap you would have to go through to manufacture guns for sale. Nope this is for my gun safe only. I just want to prove to myself I can do it. Thanks for all the good advice!
 
If it is for reasons of having a project and saying at the range "Yeah I built that from a block of metal up myself" then that's fine and worth it. Kind of like buying a beat down car that needs a total rebuild, cheaper to just buy a car that runs and probably runs well, but if you want that sense of accomplishment then it is worth it. You seem pretty much set that you will never sell it so that wont be a problem. If you decide to sell it say 20 years from now since it is pretty obvious by then you didn't make it to sell it I think that's a bit of a gray area.

Now if it is just looking at it and going "Hey that's a lot cheaper then a finished one and no paperwork to boot" then no, it isn't worth it unless you plan to build many of them. Buy the time you buy the machine tools and what not you'd have to make several to make the savings on the 80% receivers come through.
 
Don't get an 80% receiver - it's just on the side of the gun grabbers. Get one that is 100%, or none at all.

Don't worry about the gun grabbers. They don't like 100% guns any more than 80% guns or 50% gun or 1% guns.

I have built 80% hunks of metal into working firearms and I had fun doing it while learning A LOT about their mechanical function.
 
I don't understand how building a 80% lower helps the Brady Bunch. Please explain and maybe I will see the error of my ways and toss them in the lake.:D

It is done to have some fun with machines and firearms at the same time for me. I own some nice factory ARs, I like to make metal things, so I wanted to see if I could get close to a known good unit. The shell reamer with arbor cost more than some lowers complete. Not to mention a GH4 tap that is a couple of weeks wait. It should be obvious that it ain't to save money or time. It is illegal to sell, anyway it would be like selling my dog. Well not really my dog but you know what I mean.:)
 
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