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I have 6 .44 cap/ball replicas now (well 9, actually but 6 new ones in shooting shape) but hadn't had a .36 until a couple days ago. Cabela's has the steel Pietta frame 1851 "yank" (brass grip frame) on sale for $179. $10 off coupon and cabelas points paid for it. Checked timing and fit of stock/grip in the store, and brought it home.
Made a video and will post later for any interested. Man what a hoot!
The wedge was VERY tight from the factory, the worst I've seen yet. But a brass hammer and brass punch eventually did the trick.
The .44s do have more "thump" and I prefer that overall, but the .36 is a shooter and balances and points well. I shot about 8 cylinders full with 20 grains Goex FFFg (20+ years old) and lubed felt wads, Hornady .375" round balls, and remington No.10 caps yesterday, and as long as I kept dropping a bit of ballistol on the arbor in front of the cylinder it kept running. Caps are a problem, but if you rotate the pistol to the right while cocking it helps. didn't really have a jam but got close a couple of times. I will consider sending it to Goon's for a rake and other goodies. Maybe try some Slix Shot cones.
Second cylinder I put 4 shots into about an inch at 15 yards one-handed, and pulled a couple high right.
I did try one cylinder with 30 grain charges and no wad (which fit nicely, but just barely) and it felt more like a .44. I'll stick with the 20 grain loads most likely, or maybe 22 or 25 max, depending on how they shoot.
One thing I noticed is the clearance on the right side for a capper is VERY close. If it were relieved a bit more the ted cash capper would slip on there more easily. The original Colt is much more aggressively relieved there.
Shot about 4-6" high at 15ish yards, which I understand is to be expected. but right in line.
FUN!
One other question: when I checked the fit of the grip/wood in the store it felt perfect, but now after disassembly/cleaning/reassembly there's a slight sharp edge of proud wood along the right edge of the backstrap. I assume something shifted a little depending on how I torqued the grip frame screws?
Made a video and will post later for any interested. Man what a hoot!
The wedge was VERY tight from the factory, the worst I've seen yet. But a brass hammer and brass punch eventually did the trick.
The .44s do have more "thump" and I prefer that overall, but the .36 is a shooter and balances and points well. I shot about 8 cylinders full with 20 grains Goex FFFg (20+ years old) and lubed felt wads, Hornady .375" round balls, and remington No.10 caps yesterday, and as long as I kept dropping a bit of ballistol on the arbor in front of the cylinder it kept running. Caps are a problem, but if you rotate the pistol to the right while cocking it helps. didn't really have a jam but got close a couple of times. I will consider sending it to Goon's for a rake and other goodies. Maybe try some Slix Shot cones.
Second cylinder I put 4 shots into about an inch at 15 yards one-handed, and pulled a couple high right.
I did try one cylinder with 30 grain charges and no wad (which fit nicely, but just barely) and it felt more like a .44. I'll stick with the 20 grain loads most likely, or maybe 22 or 25 max, depending on how they shoot.
One thing I noticed is the clearance on the right side for a capper is VERY close. If it were relieved a bit more the ted cash capper would slip on there more easily. The original Colt is much more aggressively relieved there.
Shot about 4-6" high at 15ish yards, which I understand is to be expected. but right in line.
FUN!
One other question: when I checked the fit of the grip/wood in the store it felt perfect, but now after disassembly/cleaning/reassembly there's a slight sharp edge of proud wood along the right edge of the backstrap. I assume something shifted a little depending on how I torqued the grip frame screws?
