Can I use gun oil or CLP as oil / rust inhibitor on a knife?

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JLStorm

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I've gotten my first good quality camping / survival knife and I want to know if I need a specific rust inhibitor for knifes, or will the gun oil or CLP I use for my firearms work just as well? I decided against stainless steel for several reasons, but the obvious downside of that is that even with a weather resistant finish, the knife has to be kept up more regularly.

If the stuff I have laying around the house wont work, can someone suggest something?
 
I would guess that the "Preservative" part of "CLP" would work on gun or knife. Just be careful if you plan on using that knife for preparing food.

You can always use mineral or other food-safe oil if that is the case.

I prefer wax on my knives (and guns) since it stays in place longer.
 
There's no good reason to use that expensive stuff, but there is good reason not to.

If you're using it as a survival knife, and you end up using it for food, you're going to get CLP in your food.

Not good.


Just use light mineral oil.
(Cheap, edible and won't mess with the handle materials (epoxy, wood, etc...))
 
DoH! I didnt think about food contamination. I have mineral oil that I use on some older antique knives. I didnt think that it would be protective enough for real world use...I guess Im wrong.
 
IMHO I use Rem oil on all of my knives. I do a lot of Damascus and 1095. You could always use Crisco. I use my EDC to cut my Steak and I spray it with rem oil every few weeks. As for taste I never taste it. If you are in survival situation. Rem oil or any other lube on the knife you are eating with should be the last thing on your mind.
 
But the nausea, diarrhea and fluid in the lungs you could possibly get from Teflon ingestion should be on your mind.

Not trying to be rude, but "I do this all the time" doesn't cut it for me.
 
Many products work, but there are a few that work much better than others at preventing rust.

I have lots of carbon steel knives. I use White Lighting and Renaissance Wax as a rule. For long term storage I'll just leave it thick enough to leave a haze on the blades. If I want to display them I'll buff the haze off with a soft cloth. Living in East Tennessee with the wet and humidity I rarely have a problem following this practice.
 
I know Ren Wax uses petroleum distillates, but you can use carnuba or beeswax to protect your blades from the outdoors.

Using food fats does run the risk of it going rancid on you.
 
I really like the mineral oil idea, but mineral oil only seems like it would protect from the amount of humidity found in the home. I need something that will protect as well as possible from sweat, humidity, and rain. Yes, I know blood, a good soaking in a river and a few other things are pretty bad for carbon steel, but I plan on taking care of this blade, so I'll be cleaning it, but in between cleanings, I just need something to really protect it. Yes I will use it for food, but not on a normal basis.

Given that information, is there anything that is a good compromise between what can kill me and what is harmless but doesnt protect so well?
 
I really like the mineral oil idea, but mineral oil only seems like it would protect from the amount of humidity found in the home. I need something that will protect as well as possible from sweat, humidity, and rain. Yes, I know blood, a good soaking in a river and a few other things are pretty bad for carbon steel, but I plan on taking care of this blade, so I'll be cleaning it, but in between cleanings, I just need something to really protect it. Yes I will use it for food, but not on a normal basis.
Given that information, is there anything that is a good compromise between what can kill me and what is harmless but doesnt protect so well?


All of those Japanese dudes running around with ponytails on top of their heads in the 15-1800's thought that choji oil worked just fine for their swords.

Choji oil = mineral oil with a couple drops of clove oil for scent.
 
I think that pharmaceutical grade mineral oil laxative is the compromise that you're looking for. It's used on electric hair clipper blades, it's a solvent, cleaner, protectant and is safe for ingestion.

http://www.amazon.com/Vi-Jon-Inc-S0883-Mineral-Oil/dp/B001B2RG1C/ref=pd_sbs_hpc_2


Mineral oil is a petroleum product. Jojoba oil is a vegetable based oil/wax that's touted as the closest substitute for whale oil which was the best lubrication before petroleum by-products were developed:

Jojoba oil is also used as a replacement for whale oil and its derivatives

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jojoba_oil

There's Rust Free:

http://www.agrussell.com/product.asp?pn=RF125

For the best protection, see all of the facts about Eezox knife and gun care products:

http://www.eezox.com/knife-care.html

http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

http://www.eezox.info/truth.html
 
DAVIDSDIVAD
All of those Japanese dudes running around with ponytails on top of their heads in the 15-1800's thought that choji oil worked just fine for their swords.

Choji oil = mineral oil with a couple drops of clove oil for scent.
Clove oil, I believe, has some anti-bacterial properties. A few drops of oregano oil would probably work too.

The japanese also use camellia oil; food safe as well.
 
Plus one for the wax - I've used the Johnson's Floor wax on guns for a long time and it works great. Another good option is the oil - a couple of drops smeared around with a finger tip works for my carbon steel kitchen knives. I use vegetable oil on those due to food prep concerns.
 
+1 for RemOil. I use it on my Leatherman, Kershaws, and guns. Its great. Kinda gums up the works on the "speed safe" Kershaws but after using them a couple times they are back to working great.

I really do not worry about the oil getting in the food. If I am going to use one of them for food I just make sure to clean the blade well.
 
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