sm
member
Joe,
Is there room to drill a hole?
Is there room to drill a hole?
Case Sodbuster Jr.
- Thread starter sm
- Start date
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Dave Markowitz
Member
Just FYI, to strike a good spark from a ferrocerium rod like those found on the magnesium fire starters, what you need is something with a good edge. It doesn't need to be sharp, as such, just acute. A 90 degree angle will work. Glass will work. My favorite striker for ferro rods is the reamer found on Victorinox Pioneers. It's made of stainless steel yet throws a wicked shower of sparks. (Said reamer is one of the most under rated tools out there, IMO. I've used mine A LOT.)
sm
member
*grin*
Dave,
You are correct about that reamer.
Ya know, we ought to hold a class:
You can do the SAK Reamer Tossing Sparks and Duct Tape Sheath Making bit...
I'm going to whittle with a traditional knife and make hot dawgs forks, start a fire with a Zippo and spoil your kids rotten.
*grin*
It is all good, and one is wise to think out of the box and know about others tips and tricks.
Dave,
You are correct about that reamer.
Ya know, we ought to hold a class:
You can do the SAK Reamer Tossing Sparks and Duct Tape Sheath Making bit...
I'm going to whittle with a traditional knife and make hot dawgs forks, start a fire with a Zippo and spoil your kids rotten.
*grin*
It is all good, and one is wise to think out of the box and know about others tips and tricks.
Dave Markowitz
Member
Deal! 
Joe Demko
Member
Not without drilling through the backspring.
sm
member
That was what I was afraid of.
Some makers do have a hole in theirs and without looking at them side by side with a Case, I wonder if the Case back spring is "better" or what the other folks did to allow for a hole.
Case always has stout back springs, in both Sodbuster and Sodbuster Jrs.
Some makers do have a hole in theirs and without looking at them side by side with a Case, I wonder if the Case back spring is "better" or what the other folks did to allow for a hole.
Case always has stout back springs, in both Sodbuster and Sodbuster Jrs.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Brought To You By USPS . . .
. . . Ta-daaahh!
I am in receipt, as of noon today, of my very own Case XX 3137 CV, with a fashionably bright yellow handle.
Shinier than a new silver dollar. Hypnotic.
Unlike the 2137 SS (stainless) there are no machining marks whatsoever on the blade, no etching or printing, just a mirror finish -- a concave mirror as it happens.
The nail nick is slightly larger on the CV blade, though you have to look at them side-by-side to see it.
The 3137 CV makes the 2137 SS look plain and ordinary. The CV goes with a tuxedo or suit & tie, the SS goes with bib overalls or blue jeans.
When Cinderella went to the ball, her Fairy Godmother turned her daily carry from a 2137SS to a 3137CV, and the gleam from the blade lit the way for the horses.
I'm gonna gaze at it a bit more before I go dunk it in a glass of highly corrosive fruit juice, after which I think I'll do up my face with shoe polish. High fashion.
I am now officially stalking for a 3138CV -- the big brother to the 3137CV. I wonder if Case would do a special run of them so I could have one.
Damn, that thing's pretty.
Oh, and did I mention, I have the cutest little bald spot on my left arm. Just above the wrist.
Purty. Very purty.
. . . Ta-daaahh!
I am in receipt, as of noon today, of my very own Case XX 3137 CV, with a fashionably bright yellow handle.
Shinier than a new silver dollar. Hypnotic.
Unlike the 2137 SS (stainless) there are no machining marks whatsoever on the blade, no etching or printing, just a mirror finish -- a concave mirror as it happens.
The nail nick is slightly larger on the CV blade, though you have to look at them side-by-side to see it.
The 3137 CV makes the 2137 SS look plain and ordinary. The CV goes with a tuxedo or suit & tie, the SS goes with bib overalls or blue jeans.
When Cinderella went to the ball, her Fairy Godmother turned her daily carry from a 2137SS to a 3137CV, and the gleam from the blade lit the way for the horses.
I'm gonna gaze at it a bit more before I go dunk it in a glass of highly corrosive fruit juice, after which I think I'll do up my face with shoe polish. High fashion.
I am now officially stalking for a 3138CV -- the big brother to the 3137CV. I wonder if Case would do a special run of them so I could have one.
Damn, that thing's pretty.
Oh, and did I mention, I have the cutest little bald spot on my left arm. Just above the wrist.
Purty. Very purty.
Unfortunate that this is no longer standard - most guns roll off assembly lines with a 400 grit finish or a sandblast finish. Matchless (that's the polish you can get lost in, it's so deep) takes a few times longer than either 400 or SB, so it isn't done often any more, though I've taken the time and done it to a few of my rifles and pistols before hot salt bluing.
Steve, VERY rarely would I argue any points or facts you present, as I have come to think of you as one of the great "Elders" of THR...
Be that as it may, you're a bit off on bluing. It does absolutely nothing to protect the metal, it might (arguably) hold oil slightly better than bare polished metal, but it's mainly cosmetic in nature.
sm
member
Congrats!
Sod Buster, Jr. #0032
3137 CV or 3137 SS
Skinner Blade
3 5/8" closed; 2.1 oz.
Sod Buster, Jr. #0032
3137 CV or 3137 SS
Skinner Blade
3 5/8" closed; 2.1 oz.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Fruit Juice
It stood for an hour or so in cold orange juice, which gave it a nice start, then it stood for maybe 20-30 minutes in a fruit juice mixture (today's brew: apple juice and mixed berry) that had been microwaved for about a minute and a half, bringing it to somewhere around 150°F.
In the hot juice it darkened quickly. Little bubbles formed along the surface, so I had to swizzle it around a bit to dislodge the bubbles from time to time.
Rinsed and dried. Wiped with vegetable oil. Stropped it on a smooth (not corrugated) cardboard box.
It has a gorgeous uniform shiny grey finish now, and the edge glistens in contrast to the patina.
The finish almost looks fake.
It's ready to go.
It stood for an hour or so in cold orange juice, which gave it a nice start, then it stood for maybe 20-30 minutes in a fruit juice mixture (today's brew: apple juice and mixed berry) that had been microwaved for about a minute and a half, bringing it to somewhere around 150°F.
In the hot juice it darkened quickly. Little bubbles formed along the surface, so I had to swizzle it around a bit to dislodge the bubbles from time to time.
Rinsed and dried. Wiped with vegetable oil. Stropped it on a smooth (not corrugated) cardboard box.
It has a gorgeous uniform shiny grey finish now, and the edge glistens in contrast to the patina.
The finish almost looks fake.
It's ready to go.
Mandirigma
Member
Arfin, you could you post some pics? I want to know how "far" or long I should let mine go.
Still searching around for a case peanut locally, can't find one at the big named retail stores, going to hit up BassPro and GanderMountain.
But I do have a "Case 7043 Razor - Jade Jigged Bone Handle" and I'd like to know when it is rusty, erm -ahem- patina'd enough.
sm, does it make a difference if you put both blades in at the same time or is it better to do one at a time?
Still searching around for a case peanut locally, can't find one at the big named retail stores, going to hit up BassPro and GanderMountain.
But I do have a "Case 7043 Razor - Jade Jigged Bone Handle" and I'd like to know when it is rusty, erm -ahem- patina'd enough.
sm, does it make a difference if you put both blades in at the same time or is it better to do one at a time?
sm
member
On a Peanut, I do both blades at the same time.
On a Stockman for instance, I do both blades on one side, and then the other or most of the time or I ...
<cringe>
...open all blades and set into a shallow dish and pour Dr. Pepper to cover all the blades at the same time.
*rut-roh*
I prefer Dr.Pepper (Coke, RC, Pepsi...others prefer...this is a running joke with me and mine) as this has never hurt one of these yellow handled knives.
Nor the old Shrades with Delrin, and others...
Then again I have done this with bone handled knives, and wash and dry and use Glycerin or Ballistol, or Mineral oil to go over the bone.
I am not affiliated with anyone just sharing SMKW has been having free shipping, New Graham is nice folks, Vintage was nice to some that ordered through him, Cumberland and there a basically too many nice knife folks to mention, really!
It make me and mine feel so good to know we have so many nice knife folks, and treating folks so well. Knife Knuts are Good People!
These folks really do deserve a pat on the back , firm handshake and hearty thanks.
They have earned it. !
On a Stockman for instance, I do both blades on one side, and then the other or most of the time or I ...
<cringe>
...open all blades and set into a shallow dish and pour Dr. Pepper to cover all the blades at the same time.
*rut-roh*
I prefer Dr.Pepper (Coke, RC, Pepsi...others prefer...this is a running joke with me and mine) as this has never hurt one of these yellow handled knives.
Nor the old Shrades with Delrin, and others...
Then again I have done this with bone handled knives, and wash and dry and use Glycerin or Ballistol, or Mineral oil to go over the bone.
I am not affiliated with anyone just sharing SMKW has been having free shipping, New Graham is nice folks, Vintage was nice to some that ordered through him, Cumberland and there a basically too many nice knife folks to mention, really!
It make me and mine feel so good to know we have so many nice knife folks, and treating folks so well. Knife Knuts are Good People!
These folks really do deserve a pat on the back , firm handshake and hearty thanks.
They have earned it. !
Joe Demko
Member
I don't think you are correct on this. Bluing does less to protect against corrosion than other finishes and it is fragile compared to something like hard chrome, but it is a protective finish. It is, in essence, a layer of deliberately applied pretty rust so that the bare surface of the metal is not exposed allowing unwanted ugly rust to form.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Evidence
Here's the new 3137CV next to the 2137SS.
Depending on angle, lighting, flash, and whatever, you get a different appearance.
The full-sized pictures are here: LINK.
You'll notice that the reflectance seems to vary with angle.
Some of the pictures look nearly matte black, while others show a dark grey sheen.
I'd post pictures of the "before" 3137CV, but a) I didn't take any, and b) even the stock photos on the web don't really capture the mirror finish.
Anyway.
I'm interested to know what you think.
Here's the new 3137CV next to the 2137SS.
Depending on angle, lighting, flash, and whatever, you get a different appearance.
Room lighting:
Also room lighting:
With flash:
Also with flash:
Room light:
More room light:
Again:
Also room lighting:
With flash:
Also with flash:
Room light:
More room light:
Again:
The full-sized pictures are here: LINK.
You'll notice that the reflectance seems to vary with angle.
Some of the pictures look nearly matte black, while others show a dark grey sheen.
I'd post pictures of the "before" 3137CV, but a) I didn't take any, and b) even the stock photos on the web don't really capture the mirror finish.
Anyway.
I'm interested to know what you think.
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sm
member
Nice Job!
Now doesn't that CV with patina look a lot better than that stainless steel one?
You want me to share how to make that blade lock?
*yep*
Now doesn't that CV with patina look a lot better than that stainless steel one?
You want me to share how to make that blade lock?
*yep*
Zeke/PA
Member
I sure like the looks of them thar yellow knives.
After my lastest score of 1/2 price CaseXX stuff I REALLY don't need another blade BUT:
A yellow Sodbuster beckons, as does a yellow Barehead Trapper.
And as someone mentioned, SMKW has free shippping.
Arf,
Nice photos by the way.
Zeke
After my lastest score of 1/2 price CaseXX stuff I REALLY don't need another blade BUT:
A yellow Sodbuster beckons, as does a yellow Barehead Trapper.
And as someone mentioned, SMKW has free shippping.
Arf,
Nice photos by the way.
Zeke
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Lock?
Super glue?
A fortnight in a bucket of brine?
Ultra magnets?
Uh, or maybe a twig.
Although, a popsicle stick might do in place of a twig.
Super glue?
A fortnight in a bucket of brine?
Ultra magnets?
Uh, or maybe a twig.
Although, a popsicle stick might do in place of a twig.
sm
member
Ya know, Case just should make a run of Case YH, CV bladed knives with a THR Logo and just give them to us.
Whaddya Think? *grin*
Maybe Dr. Pepper will give free samples away and Norton too...*hint-hint*
Whaddya Think? *grin*
Maybe Dr. Pepper will give free samples away and Norton too...*hint-hint*
sm
member
Gee, for an old fart you do some pretty good free thinking there dude.
*neener*
Dead Serious.
-Safety is between the ears, on any and everything, firearm, knife, matches...etc.
-Correct basic fundamentals applies to any and everything too.
That which need to be cut, gets the sharp edge - that which does not need to be cut, stays away from sharp edge.
This applies to using correct basic fundamentals with pocket knives, locking or fixed.
You get anything on the sharp side with a fixed knife you it will cut it.
It is not the knife that makes it safe, instead the user of the knife.
Now I am going back to when I was a kid born in mid 50's.
Mentors were doing this before I was born...
--Serious Situations arise.
Tornado, flood, fire, blizzards...whatever.
1. Folks made a wooden insert, that fit inside handles. Sodbusters, Slimline Trappers, Stockman, Peanut...applicable to all pocket knives.
Later when Locking knives come to be folks still did so with Buck 110 and the like.
Sleep deprivation, stress, and other factors make it harder to do simple tasks.
Even if correct basics are instilled, high stress will cause folks to make mistakes.
So an insert was made, that would fit , and go over tang. That blade would not close.
Sometimes held in place by grip...
Serious meant taking Fricton tape ( electrical tape today) and making sure that insert was in there good.
Essentially making a fixed, from a pocket knife or locking knife.
2. Field expedient, grab a stick whittle, and tape it .
I am serious, when a tornado hits, or fire, you do what you gotta do and fast.
You try to take care of the knife, and not break it, it is a very very valuable tool.
Still you hear a baby cry under some rubble, or a elderly lady cry out, you will get to scoring dry wall to break through, you will cut curtains, shower , curtains, carpet cut window screens and start prying a window lock...
A pocket in the pocket might be the only damn "tool" you have left after a tornado or fire.
And, you might have to use that tool to do what needs doing and fast.
You may approach a situation, and the knife you have, is the one in your pocket.
You need hands, and finger to stay safe, even with a fixed blade, so safety and correct basics are important, and if can, making sure a knife, even a locking on is safe, is critical.
BTDT and more than once.
JLaw
Member
My Case Sodbuster Jr. CV arrived today! I'm happy with SMKW, ordered the blade Saturday night and here it is Thursday and it was waiting for me when I got home.
Seems like the reviews are dead on, this knife screams "USE ME!". I suppose the yellow handles and no bolsters may grow on me after a while, but I didn't buy this one for it's looks, I bought it to use.
Also in the package was, what else...a Norton Sportsman Combo sharpening stone. Time to learn how to use that thing well.
JLaw
Seems like the reviews are dead on, this knife screams "USE ME!". I suppose the yellow handles and no bolsters may grow on me after a while, but I didn't buy this one for it's looks, I bought it to use.
Also in the package was, what else...a Norton Sportsman Combo sharpening stone. Time to learn how to use that thing well.
JLaw
sm
member
JLaw,
Congrats!
You have a real knife and real stone a lot of real farmers, ranchers, cowboys / cowgirls really do use in your neck of the woods.
Really is used all over the USA, and elsewhere in the world.
These folks depend on a quality knife, not only for them, also for each other and livestock.
They may handle all sorts of serious situations in a day, they may camp out for days, a long way from base, home and those two tools, Sodbuster Jr CV , and Norton stone, are proven.
Congrats!
You have a real knife and real stone a lot of real farmers, ranchers, cowboys / cowgirls really do use in your neck of the woods.
Really is used all over the USA, and elsewhere in the world.
These folks depend on a quality knife, not only for them, also for each other and livestock.
They may handle all sorts of serious situations in a day, they may camp out for days, a long way from base, home and those two tools, Sodbuster Jr CV , and Norton stone, are proven.
sm
member
Hey,
Lookee here...
SMKW has a sale on Case Sodbuster Jr CV with free shipping!
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...t.y=9&list=10&range=1&order=Default&SKU=CA032
Heck I need one of these (mine is gone) Heck I need another Case YH Peanut with CV blades too...
That SMKW is a good price!
Lookee here...
SMKW has a sale on Case Sodbuster Jr CV with free shipping!
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...t.y=9&list=10&range=1&order=Default&SKU=CA032
Heck I need one of these (mine is gone) Heck I need another Case YH Peanut with CV blades too...
That SMKW is a good price!
okay, I got a question....when I was growing up dad or my grampaw sharpened most of my knives for me....how do I learn to use a stone? I have a drawer full of knives that are dull...I thought about buying one of those "easy to use" Lanskeys, but I want to know how to properly use a pocket stome....
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