Century Romanian AES-10B, courtesy of ClassicArms.us

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RyanM

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The good:

Fast shipping! I ordered it Monday morning, had it Wednesday morning.

Straight front sight. Looks perfect to me.

Overall good condition, not rusted or anything. Just the usual scratches and dents that Romanians and Century Arms guys put there.

Barrel is actually a bit over 23.5", which is correct for an RPK. Most websites say 21" for the AES-10B, which was kind of disappointing. But no, it's 23.6" or so. Hooray!

The bad:

Typical Century magwell. The included 30 round magazine flops like a fish, but the 40 rounder and drum aren't too bad. I'm just going to pretend that RPKs are supposed to fit their own magazines better than AK-47 ones. I've got a buttload of unissued condition 40s coming from CDNN today, so we'll see if 40s in general fit better.

The gun was filled with metal shavings! I hope that's not bits of jacketing from a test firing. The gas tube was full of them. But, I assume this is also a Century hallmark, and a result of the magwell job. Shavings could get in the gas system easily, and they probably didn't bother to clean it.

The guy that welded on the muzzle nut was determined to make it impossible to remove, and be functional. Put the weld right on the notch for the whatchamacallit anti-turn thing. I'm going to have to buy a replacement nut after I file the weld off.

The weld that holds the carrying handle on broke when I had the wood off. But, it seems like the wood was practically the only thing holding the handle on anyway, so it still works, just a little wobbly. And now I can remove the handle easily later, if I want to use blactical tactical shmactical furniture.

The cleaning rod bends so much going into the handguard that it needs two teams of mules, pulling in opposite directions, to get it out. It doesn't help that the middle hole is crooked by a good bit, but fortunately, everything else pinned to the barrel is straight. Looking at pictures, I imagine every AES-10B has that problem. Lining the hole in the handguard with a metal tube might help, as it mostly drags on the wood.

The ugly:

I wish someone had warned me about the cleaning kit compartment in the butt! I almost didn't get my thumb back! It took me 5 solid minutes to get my thumb out of there. I thought I was going to have to go to the hospital with an 11 pound rifle dangling from my hand. Not fun. Now I know exactly how a monkey feels when it tries to get a nut inside a box, and can't remove its hand! I wonder how many Soviet conscripts lost fingers, for this very reason?

The magazines stick. It seems to be related to rotational play. Looking at the rifle from the bottom, if I rotate the magazine as far as possible counterclockwise, it snaps in fine and comes out easy. Rotated clockwise, the mag catch gets stuck on the whatchamacallit on the way in, and I need a screwdriver for leverage, to move it again (or to rotate the mag counterclockwise). This is my first AK, but I suspect this isn't normal. It looks like the top of the mag catch is uneven. From the bottom, barrel pointed up, the right side is taller than the left. And looking at the mags, the side of the lug thingie that touches that side of the mag release is getting polished by scraping against it. So filing that down until it's even might help. It's off by about 0.12 mm, according to my caliper.

Overall:

I'd say I got my money's worth. Seems like a pretty typical Century job, functional but not refined. The sticking mag problem is the main negative, but I think that's an easy fix. Going to wait for someone that knows more about AKs to chime in before I file anything, though.

I'll have to wait until the weekend to shoot it.

Might take pictures later.
 
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Wow. I don't know what to think about that. I ordered one from Classic Arms on Tuesday. I really don't have any illusions about what I was ordering (a four hundred dollar Kalashnikov put together by our favorite Century monkeys), but yet I find myself feeling a bit conflicted.
I guess I'll be happy as long as it works. Minor problems I can handle as long as I can fix them myself.

Yeah, that's it.



Whew. Is it warm in here or is it just me?:rolleyes:


Jeffrey
 
Well, there are more negatives than positives just in terms of hard facts, but none of the bad stuff is anything you won't find on at least 75% of Century-imported Romanian guns. I went ahead and filed the magazine latch, and 5 minutes of work solved the problem. The barrel nut... I'm just anal about details like that. I may have trouble finding a US-made nut, though, as I'm guessing it was welded on to turn the barrel + nut into a single foreign part.

But don't get me wrong. Overall, I like the gun. It's big, heavy, and ugly (which is exactly what I wanted), and I'm betting it's going to be more accurate than I am. I'm sure I'll like it even more once I get a chance to shoot it.
 
As luck would have it, I just picked up my AES-10B from the local gunshop at lunch. Man, Classic ships fast. Quick inspection doesn't reveal any obvious problems, but I won't be able to go over it thoroughly until tonight.
I'll post again then.

Ryan, it looks like you and I bought these beasties for the same reason---big, heavy, and ugly.
What's there to not like?



Jeffrey
 
I wish someone had warned me about the cleaning kit compartment in the butt! I almost didn't get my thumb back! It took me 5 solid minutes to get my thumb out of there. I thought I was going to have to go to the hospital with an 11 pound rifle dangling from my hand.

Thank you for the best laugh I've had today. The visual is priceless. I doubt I'd have gone to the hospital with the entire rifle as replacement AK stocks are easy enough to come by. I'd have been out in the garage with the skillsaw, slicing the buttstock in half. :D
 
I wish someone had warned me about the cleaning kit compartment in the butt!

Hey, look out for the cleaning kit compartment! :) I have fond memories of frantically trying to unscrew the screws from the buttplate to rescue my finger!
 
Overall good condition, not rusted or anything. Just the usual scratches and dents that Romanians and Century Arms guys put there.

Sounds good, but pics would help us a lot more. ;)
 
Terrible quality photos, but I'm feeling lazy right now.

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Overall.

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There are a lot more dings and dents on the bulged trunnion area than what showed up in this pic.

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Hard to see, but someone was having a little too much fun with the number stamper thingie.

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I have no idea what this black crud under the lower handguard is.

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Giant weld, but it broke pretty easily.
 

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You call that a safety detent hole thingie? I think the guy doing the receiver stuff had too much Vodka that day. Much like my camera while I was taking the picture.

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This is probably what the underside of the receiver looked like to Vodka-dude when he was putting it together. You can't tell, but the trigger guard is pretty crooked. Had to inlet an aftermarket grip to get it to fit, and it's still crooked. More comfortable than the tiny little one that came with it, at least.
 

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Mine came in much the same condition.

The mag catch was uneven, had to file it and found a giant bur stuck in there as well.

There were some serious burs in the receiver I dremeled out with some rubberized abrasive wheels and a couple good dings on the gas block that got the same treatment.

My gas tube had some corrosion I needed to clean up and cold blue.

The lower hand-guard looked as if it was put on with a hammer creating yet another nasty bur that needed dremeling and cold blue.

Cold blued the scratches on the receiver.

Polished up the trigger.

Cut off the welded nut and put on a slant brake.

My cleaning kit was rusted shut. That needed cleaning and a soak in CLP to get it open.

Refinished the wood.

I'm very happy with it. Century welded the hell out my carry handle as well but enough of it must have stuck cause it's still on. :)

I'm wondering if it is OK to cut that welded barrel nut off and put a brake on this rifle?

AES-10B-2-1.jpg
AES-10BFront.jpg
AES-10BClubStock.jpg
AES-10BReceiver.jpg
 
My gas tube had some corrosion I needed to clean up and cold blue.

Are you sure it wasn't gunked up cosmoline mixed with powder fouling from a test-fire? Mine had a ton of rusty-looking crap in it too, but I don't think it was actually rust. Came off too easily.

I'm wondering if it is OK to cut that welded barrel nut off and put a brake on this rifle?

If it's American-made, definitely. If not, I don't know. I'm guessing, at least, that they weld those on in order to make the barrel and nut a single foreign part rather than two.

The parts count law is ridiculous, and it's pretty much impossible to tell a lot of stuff apart. I'm planning on putting a Phantom flash hider on mine, probably. Sorta torn between one of those, and just a US made nut. I really doubt the RPK needs a brake, with all the weight. And 24" of barrel with an intermediate rifle cartridge, probably not a whole lot of still-burning powder, either.
 
Quote:
My gas tube had some corrosion I needed to clean up and cold blue.

Are you sure it wasn't gunked up cosmoline mixed with powder fouling from a test-fire? Mine had a ton of rusty-looking crap in it too, but I don't think it was actually rust. Came off too easily.

No, definitely rust and corrosion. Right off the flange on the rear of the tube. Had some metal missing from the rust. These are RPK parts kits I believe. Not brand new stuff but it's all good.
 
I picked up a pair of AES-10B's last Friday.
Turned the first one into a "battle field pick-up".
Added an old extra stock set I had.

I like that look too...

I also had to order a drum from Century. This rifle needs a drum. :)
 
Well, after disassembling and beginning to clean up my AES-10B I've come to the conclusion that anyone buying one of these should probably look at it as a 90-95% complete kit gun. Everything on my rifle was assembled correctly and straight and most everything functions properly (haven't fired it yet), but it isn't quite finished--especially the furniture, which is very rough and may not be varnished at all. Just as Ryan posted, the rifle was filthy upon arrival, metal shavings and all, and is completely covered in a reddish-brown cosmo. The bolt required a good soaking to get all the cosmo out. The Century simians apparently pulled the parts out of their crates, assembled the rifles, test fired them (the gas system and receiver had powder residue) and packed them up again for shipping.
The magazines I received (a thirty and a forty round, which were also filthy) fit great in the rifle, as did several other steel mags I had on hand. They do wobble just a tad, but not much and no more so than my other Kalashnikovs.

As Ryan also pointed out, the cleaning rod is nearly impossible to remove as is. The hole in the bipod through which the rod passes doesn't extend far enough away from the rifle to allow the rod to be pulled down and away from the gun enough for the rod head to clear the two lugs that hold it in on the end of the barrel. This was remedied with a bit of dremeling to the inside corners of the lugs (although you could modify the bipod as well), and I'll post a pic tonight, time permitting.

I actually love the gun. For four hundred bucks I can't really complain, and kind of expected to have to do at least SOME work to it. And if it runs with no problems, I'll be ecstatic.


Jeffrey
 
This thread perfectly explains why I prefer to pay perhaps a bit mor and buy from a gun show where I can inspect what I get before I take it home.

I've had good luck with Century guns, but I've often looked at four or five before finding the one I get.

--wally.
 
This thread perfectly explains why I prefer to pay perhaps a bit mor and buy from a gun show where I can inspect what I get before I take it home.

I've had good luck with Century guns, but I've often looked at four or five before finding the one I get.

Like I've said before, dollar for dollar, the AK-47 and AR-15 are basically on equal footing. It's just, there are no AR-15s that are as crappy as Century WASRs, nor are there any made with milsurp parts.

---------

Well, after disassembling and beginning to clean up my AES-10B I've come to the conclusion that anyone buying one of these should probably look at it as a 90-95% complete kit gun.

Probably the best approach. The wood on mine seems to be unfinished as well, but on the bright side, it's not soaked with cosmo!

As Ryan also pointed out, the cleaning rod is nearly impossible to remove as is. The hole in the bipod through which the rod passes doesn't extend far enough away from the rifle to allow the rod to be pulled down and away from the gun enough for the rod head to clear the two lugs that hold it in on the end of the barrel.

Hm, my problem is where it goes into the handguard. It bends so that it goes in at an angle, and scrapes on the wood a lot.

I need to decide what color to paint the stocks. I'm thinking red, probably. It's a classic look.
 
This thread perfectly explains why I prefer to pay perhaps a bit mor and buy from a gun show where I can inspect what I get before I take it home.

--wally.


Ahhhh, that takes all the fun out of it! :)

Honestly, I like tinkering with them but if someone is expecting a rifle ready to go out of the box, look elsewhere. These need a good going over.
 
I've got a few questions for all you folks with semi-auto RPK's. How well are you able to simulate the effect of a machinegun burst with them? Are you able to hit targets the same or close to the same at 400 or 500 yards as you would be able to with a light machinegun or does having to repeatedly pull the trigger make it more difficult to get hits at medium to long range?

I've thought of picking up an RPK while I still have the chance, but I'd like to know if they're really any better than a standard AK when it comes to getting hits downrange.
 
The RPKs are supposed to be quite capable of 2 MOA, easily. I'll find out... not sure. It's supposed to rain a lot this weekend.

Rate of fire really isn't much of a factor to getting hits. The general rule of thumb for full auto fire is if your first shot misses, the rest of the shots in the burst will miss. If your first shot hits, the second and subsequent shots will miss.

Hitting stuff is mostly trigger discipline and inherent accuracy of the gun. In terms of #2, the 23.6" heavy barrel (and probably the reinforced front trunnion as well) help a lot.

Just to give you an idea, the Romanian PSL, which is reputed to be just as accurate as the Russian SVD, is built on an RPK receiver.
 
I've got a few questions for all you folks with semi-auto RPK's.

How well are you able to simulate the effect of a machinegun burst with them?

Are you able to hit targets the same or close to the same at 400 or 500 yards as you would be able to with a light machinegun or does having to repeatedly pull the trigger make it more difficult to get hits at medium to long range?

I hope the weather is good tomorrow and I can make it to the range but I have no intention of simulating any kind of "bursts." To me, bump firing or any such tomfoolery amounts to purposeful abuse. I intend to squeeze off aimed shots and see how it groups, just as I would with any other rifle. :)
 
So machineguns are just "tomfoolery" then? As someone who has fired more than a few belts from an M60, I can tell you that bursts and area fire are an extremely practical and useful tactic. That's why the machinegun revolutionized warfare, not because they are just tomfoolery.

The RPK was designed as a light machinegun. If the AES-10B can't be used in that role, then it's basically just an oversized and overweight semi-auto AK. I'm open to the possibility that it perhaps can be used in that role however, and not with bump firing but with aimed rapid fire.
 
I will be shooting my AES-10b tomorrow and will post some results and pictures. I am going to order a GAT crankfire system and try that out in a couple of weeks and will post results also. The GAT should work pretty will on the AES from the prone. If it works good I may have to get a 75 round drum as well.
 
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