chain fire in black powder cap-and-ball revolver

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Hey Guys,

I really don't think it comes from the cap end, least ways not a true chain fire.
I can see where a battered ring on a brass framed revolver could allow the cylinder
to move back thus causing a capped nipple to hit the ring and fire.
In the previous video I posted, or the pdf, you do see the next cap ignite only after the chamber had fired.
Here is another video, this time it was attempted with undersized balls.


I really believe John Fuhring hit the nail on the head with his powder trail theory.
Paper or Brass Cartridges are the safest way to go.

Just my opinion, AntiqueSledMan.

Just from my two experiences, I can tell you it came from the cap end. I had wads in and 50/50 crisco beeswax sealing the chambers.

What I believe happened was when I was firing, the cap to the right got knocked off and I didn't notice. Leaving a nice open hole for ignition.
 
My personal opinion is that no manly pursuit should be undertaken with undersized balls. Even with properly-sized ones, things can go wrong...

I had 1 chain fire back in the 80's with my 1st BP revolver, an Armi San Paolo brasser 1851 navy in .36. I had been carrying it in the hilly woods - literally carrying it, as I had no holster - by gripping it around the frame to keep my finger off the trigger. I'd loaded with FFFg powder (don't remember charge amount), & .375 balls (shaved a ring), and topped the cylinders with commercial BP lube. At the end of my stomp, I went to "unload" it the best way I knew, shooting into a natural berm near the house.

1st trigger pull set off all 5 loaded chambers. Scared but didn't hurt me (thanks be). At the time, I surmised my warm hand had caused the lube to melt out and allowed sparks to jump cylinders; it didn't occur to me it could have been loose caps.

I recently got that revolver back out & found the bbl/forcing cone gap was 0.2" - egad! (I'm in the process of fixin' her up; more on that later.) There is evidence of gas cutting on the top of the arbor pin under the gap. Clearly, it was ill-fitted originally, and now I'm betting the chain fire was a result of copious sparks & flame coming out that gap. But it could've been loose or missing caps... it's all guess work close to 40 years later!

The good news is that it never did that before nor has it since. And I've learned to be more cautious in how I load, carry, and shoot black powder.

This particular tuition payment at Life U. was very, very reasonable.
 
I remember something about torqueing a nut on a stud.
I remember a propeller nut dry torque of 86ft/lbs and a wet torque of 64ft/lbs
So what does lube and torque have to do with cap and ball revolvers?
Not a dab gum thing.
And yet when you start lubing it up around the bullet you have all the advantages of lubrication.
It breaks the surface tension.
Thats why you spray lubricant on rusty dry nuts and bolts to get them appart.
A skinny ball and lubed up cylinder.
Your going to get that ball to move.
Sometimes even when you dont want it to.
 
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