Chinese VZ24

[Robk13]

I agree, I can see how using this for very long would certainly peen and beat up the firing pin hole in the bolt face its about 3/16" too long.

I'll be putting a NOS one on soon. Hopefully a few new parts will get the bolt to operational.

I know it's not economical as stated before with it being in this condition but the idea of owning a firearm that doesn't function as intended gives me the Willies.

 

[boom boom]

I agree, I can see how using this for very long would certainly peen and beat up the firing pin hole in the bolt face its about 3/16" too long.

I'll be putting a NOS one on soon. Hopefully a few new parts will get the bolt to operational.

I know it's not economical as stated before with it being in this condition but the idea of owning a firearm that doesn't function as intended gives me the Willies.

Sarco has new replacement Mauser 98 firing pins too. Regarding your firing pin, that is some Bubba craftsmanship there. Since firing pins are a critical issue for safety and smooth operation in Mausers, I would agree that you need a new firing pin. Welded ones sometimes break and that can render one unsafe or if the keys break/have burrs it can be difficult to operate the safety and fp protrusion can be an issue with an out of spec firing pin.

One thing to buy is the Sarco Mauser 98 spare parts kit as it has quite a few of the parts you might need for about $30 (firing pin is not pictured). Parts will be a mix of new, used, and a few might be trashed but generally cheaper than buying each part separately+s/h even if a few parts are unusable. They will be larded up with cosmolene though. I have bought several sets over the years and generally had pretty good luck with most of the parts and yes some will be CZ in manufacture.
https://www.sarcoinc.com/m98-mauser-spare-parts-kit/

 

[theotherwaldo]

According to my sources, all of the Czech vz. 24s made for China were marked 1937, regardless of when they were made.

Also, as stated in Wikipedia, "Starting in 1927, the Chinese Nationalist government began ordering rifles, and by 1937 had purchased 195,000 vz. 24s. They saw action during the Second Sino-Japanese War in the late 1930s and many of these rifles were captured by Japanese forces. They were then used to arm five infantry divisions stationed in China as well as the Collaborationist Chinese Army. After the war, Japan surrendered the rifles to China, which were then issued to Nationalist forces for use during the Chinese Civil War. China manufactured a copy of the vz. 24 that featured a shorter barrel and a side folding bayonet. Some of these rifles were captured by the People's Liberation Army and used in Korea. Japan also ordered 40,000 rifles for the Imperial Japanese Navy in 1938"

-According to my father, a Korean War veteran, 1937-marked rifles were fairly common trophies of the Korean War and were much preferred over the "Chiang Kai-shek" rifles (poor copies of the vz. 24 and other Mauser-type rifles that were made in China).

 

[Robk13]

Boom boom, thanks alot of the top about those parts kits those are a screaming deal considering pins alone sell all day for 20+ at auction sites.

That being said I ordered that kit and I couldnt resist buying one of those fn body bodies!

When I did a closer inspection of the old bolt I noticed someone cut the locking lugs back on that bolt!!! You can actually see where they ground them down, even the safety lug. I am not sure why they did this but it certainly doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy about shooting it, so the new one is on its way!

theoltherwaldo, thank you for posting that information! It's amazing to think what this rifle may have seen in its life. It's very cool to learn these rifles were bring backs for Korean war vets from a vet themselves. I have never seen a kai-shek rifle in person before but from what I understand like has been stated they are of poorer quality.

I am highly suspect that the bolt on this 1937 came from a Chinese produced Mauser because of all the Mausers I have owned and seen this one has the lowest quality finish and appears to be of lower quality. This new bolt will serve the gun well but I will keep all the old parts for historical purposes.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[boom boom]

Boom boom, thanks alot of the top about those parts kits those are a screaming deal considering pins alone sell all day for 20+ at auction sites.

That being said I ordered that kit and I couldnt resist buying one of those fn body bodies!

When I did a closer inspection of the old bolt I noticed someone cut the locking lugs back on that bolt!!! You can actually see where they ground them down, even the safety lug. I am not sure why they did this but it certainly doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy about shooting it, so the new one is on its way!

theoltherwaldo, thank you for posting that information! It's amazing to think what this rifle may have seen in its life. It's very cool to learn these rifles were bring backs for Korean war vets from a vet themselves. I have never seen a kai-shek rifle in person before but from what I understand like has been stated they are of poorer quality.

I am highly suspect that the bolt on this 1937 came from a Chinese produced Mauser because of all the Mausers I have owned and seen this one has the lowest quality finish and appears to be of lower quality. This new bolt will serve the gun well but I will keep all the old parts for historical purposes.

Thanks again everyone!

If you ever end up shooting it, give us a range report if you can. Due to medical issues, it has been awhile since I have been able to go to the range and even longer since I have been able to shoot rifles.

 

[Robk13]

I will certainly do that, I'm stocking up on that ppu, s&b as well as Egyptian 8mm ammo (and a limbsaver) so that I can make a day out of shooting my new Yugo and this vz24 one day.

When I make it out there I will keep everyone posted as to how the old gal functions.

 

[Robk13]

Well I got that fresh bolt built with new parts fully functional safety and all things look safe, I would estimate that 30-40 % of the material from the old bolt lugs was removed.

Does anyone have a way to guesstimate the headspace on bolt guns? I did the tape trick, I believe I understand the results but I am not certain.

The new bolt gets very tight with 4 layers of masking tape and the shoulder of the 8mm round is rubbed (it made contact with the chamber) The old bolt with the same 4 layers still has play back and forth when locked!!!! I'm not sure if it's lug set back or the removing of the lug material that caused it but I think it's good to go now.

Just one more Mauser and I'll buy the Forester gauge haha