Cleaning up an old revolver?

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Mosin Bubba

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I ordered one of the "Ugly Smith" Model 10s that people were talking about off of Bud's the other day. I figured a 4" .38 would be fun to plink with, and at $269, it might make a fun project gun.

I've seen some pics coming back in from people who have bought these, and ho lee crap, they are definitely ugly. I don't have mine yet, but it's looking like it might take more cleaning than I had expected when it gets here.

I'm not a revolver guy at all and much more of a rifle shooter. What would I need to clean up on this gun to make sure it functions A-OK? With a rifle, I'd pry just swab out the bore, oil the bolt and raceways and call it good, but revolvers can get a little intricate.

Thanks.
 
I don't like to disassemble revolvers unless I really have to.

Get the grips off, and a can of your favorite aerosol gun cleaner, and hose out the innards as best you can. You'll have a big opening at the grip frame and you can cock the hammer to create a smaller opening up top. Also hose out the area under the ejector star, a tiny bit of grit there can raise havoc.

When dry, spray with aerosol lube - I've had good luck with RemOil - and clean the chambers and barrel per usual and see how she shoots.
 
Agree with Mike, if you are a bit of a wheelgun greenhorn, its best to just pull the grips, blast it out (I like brake cleaner- removes grease and grime, drys fast with no residue, but DONT get it on wood), relube and have fun.

On the other hand, for that price, if you are the tinkering type and want to pull the side plate and have a look around, why not? Don't pry it off- just remove the screws, wrap a rubber band around the plate (so it doesn't fly into another dimension)and give the butt a stout whack with a rubber mallet or block of wood- the plate should wiggle free.

Pulling the yoke (crane) is easy and you'll often find gunk and rust inside. As Mike said, the bottom side of the extractor is another rust and dirt reservoir that usually needs a good cleaning.

Do yerself a favor and get a MAGNETIC bowl to put the screws and bits in. Do yerself an even bigger favor and get a little blue Locktite for the screws when you reassemble. Just a dab will do ya, and a bit too little torque is better than a bit too much!

With any old revolver you want to check for excessive endshake, carry up, and looseness at the crane. Google is your friend here, there are many good YouTube videos that show how to inspect these things.

One spot many people forget to clean is the bolt locking lugs in the side of the cylinder. Rust and grime can accumulate in these over time and mimic a timing problem which is easily solved by gently scooping them out.

Good luck, bro!

Let's see sum pics when she arrives!
 
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I’m really wanting to see pics of those. I figure most folks will be into them around $300 all in and I just want to see how bad they are.
 
Kunhausen book on S&W is a good start.

If it were mine I'd take it through the revolver checkout thread here at the High Road.

Then I'd pop the side plate and spray fountains of degreaser and CLP in the guts till it came out sparkling. Then I'd make sure the ejector rod was tight and I'd put it all back together after a drop of oil graced the springs.

Then I'd check the bc gap and endshake. I'd check for cylinder rolloff and I'd check for hammer rolloff too. I'd test each chamber's alignment to the bore with a service range rod.

I'd shine a light in the bore and cylinder holes looking for cracks. I'd pay special attention to the forcing cone and above it.

I'd want to see the hammer block moving about.

I'd remove the trigger overtravel stop if it had one.

After all was said and done I'd take it to the range and fire it and check the primers and then I'd do it all over.

If the grips were wood I'd put a little renwax on them for shine.

Then I'd holster it and carry it.

Would not care a bit about wear and tear except for the action components.
 
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Years ago when the Brazilian 1917's were reimported I picked one up. I paid a premium (ten bucks I think) for a "select" one. It actually wasn't all that bad, but it was gunked up like you wouldn't believe. I think it still had the original shipping grease in the action.

I pulled off the grips and soaked the entire thing in a bucket of cleaner (dunk it?). A couple of days later I took it out and let it drip dry. The sprayed it out with an air hose. After that I removed the side plate, they really fit those things back then. Inside it was clean as a whistle. Lubed it up. put the side plate back on and went shooting.

That revolver has absolutely the best trigger pull of any handgun I own. And that includes several high dollar custom jobs.
 
There was a guy on here a while back who sent one to S&w and they went through everything it looked better then new when it was all done. Just something to think over when you want something nicer
 
jeepnik said:
Years ago when the Brazilian 1917's were reimported I picked one up. I paid a premium (ten bucks I think) for a "select" one. It actually wasn't all that bad, but it was gunked up like you wouldn't believe. I think it still had the original shipping grease in the action.

I pulled off the grips and soaked the entire thing in a bucket of cleaner (dunk it?). A couple of days later I took it out and let it drip dry. The sprayed it out with an air hose. After that I removed the side plate, they really fit those things back then. Inside it was clean as a whistle. Lubed it up. put the side plate back on and went shooting.

That revolver has absolutely the best trigger pull of any handgun I own. And that includes several high dollar custom jobs.
Click to expand...

I'll admit, there's a redneck part of me that just wants to throw the gun (sans grips) into a bucket of paint thinner and let it do its thing.

How hard is it to remove the side plate? I had always just figured it was a metal cover held on by screws, but Nightlord40K above is saying that it can go flying. This is the part that kinda worries me about revolvers, I don't know what I don't know about them.
 
jeepnik said:
Years ago when the Brazilian 1917's were reimported I picked one up. I paid a premium (ten bucks I think) for a "select" one. It actually wasn't all that bad, but it was gunked up like you wouldn't believe. I think it still had the original shipping grease in the action.

I pulled off the grips and soaked the entire thing in a bucket of cleaner (dunk it?). A couple of days later I took it out and let it drip dry. The sprayed it out with an air hose. After that I removed the side plate, they really fit those things back then. Inside it was clean as a whistle. Lubed it up. put the side plate back on and went shooting.

That revolver has absolutely the best trigger pull of any handgun I own. And that includes several high dollar custom jobs.
Click to expand...
My Dad had one of those Brazilian 1917s as his nightstand gun for decades, until a Ballaster Molina replaced it. He still has it, what a great gun!
 
Mosin Bubba said:
I'll admit, there's a redneck part of me that just wants to throw the gun (sans grips) into a bucket of paint thinner and let it do its thing.

How hard is it to remove the side plate? I had always just figured it was a metal cover held on by screws, but Nightlord40K above is saying that it can go flying. This is the part that kinda worries me about revolvers, I don't know what I don't know about them.
Click to expand...
They are so tightly fitted that frame stretching over the years causes them to aquire a bit of springy tension once the screws are removed. Conversely, this held in check by rust and grime buildup. So, when you whack the butt, it may pop off and send other internals flying.

As an alternative to the rubber band trick, leave the screws halfway in until the plate "pops" then remove the screws and wiggle off the plate.
 
OARNGESI said:
There was a guy on here a while back who sent one to S&w and they went through everything it looked better then new when it was all done. Just something to think over when you want something nicer
Click to expand...

I know there is a local gunsmith who offers to clean your guns for $30 or $40. I always thought that was ridiculous - $30 to clean a single gun! - but I'm now starting to see the value of it. I got looking at the THR revolver library's Model 10 disassembly guide (thanks for the link, guys!) and it gets pretty freaking involved. Much more so than I am comfortable with. If I tried to take it down past the revolver equivalent of a field strip, I would probably end up coming to him anyway with a bucket full of Smith parts.

I don't want to put more money into this gun than I have to, but if he has an ultrasonic tank or something that could clean it out really thoroughly, $30 may be worth my while.
 
I am lazy. Just ask my wife. (She might also add "poor listener".)

I got an old police turn-in Model 10 a few months go. I just did my basic cleaning on it: barrel and cylinders, under the star extractor, around the forcing cone, all around the inside where the cylinder normally is, the firing pin area, and added a couple of drops of light oil near the base of the ejector rod where it goes into the cylinder. I worked the ejector rod in and out a bunch of times and made sure the cylinder spun freely.

That was it. It shoots great. The trigger is excellent. I probably "should have" taken it apart or something, but like I said, I'm lazy. Apparently the armorer for the PD that sold the revolvers had been doing his job properly. If there had been a problem shooting it I would have taken off the grips and probably the sideplate, but I figure if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

View media item 1782
 
Lazy approach :

Remove grips. Easy to do. Important to use properly ground screwdrivers.

Remove cylinder. One screw , also easy to do. Really important to use proper screwdrivers.

Immerse in pan of Ed's Red (you can make your own) , let soak for a good week or more. Slosh around occasionally. (Easy slosh: Put soaking pan , well covered , in the back of truck and take it for the occasional ride. Lining pan with heavy aluminum foil will prevent abrasion. Forgetting pan in back of truck overnight or otherwise leaving unattended may lead to unwanted attention.)

Drip dry. When dripping ceases , blast compressed air through any possible opening.

Light lube of choice. Read up on lubes , lots of choices. Wipe down thoroughly , maybe apply Ren Wax. Replace cylinder. Replace grips. Load. Shoot.

Never broke a sweat.
 
I picked up one early last year. As soon as I had it in my hands it was completely disassembled. Very easy to do I think. I had to replace the cylinder stop, I was getting some lead splash on the face of the cylinder. I was lucky, the new one just dropped right in. Now I only have one chamber that splashes. It isn't too bad but I'll probably send to off to S&W to give it the once over and fit a new cylinder if needed. For now though it shoots great.
 
All right, the revolver came today, so it's picture time. Much cleaner than I thought it would be. Bluing is in bad shape, but no grime or rust.

index.php



Couple of thoughts:

-This is the stock image that Bud's sold it with. Every surplus gun will be different, but judging on the one I got, I'd say it's a fair representation.
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/images/hiRes/411558617_2.jpg

-Don't think I am going to clean this gun past pulling the grips, blasting it with brake cleaner, and re-oiling.

-The grip looks ugly, but it fits nicely in my hands. It's staying for sure.

-Just idly cocking and dry-firing it, the hammer and trigger seem to be smooth.

-The heavy barrel is fatter than I thought it'd be. Would prefer a pencil barrel, but oh well, it's $269. Maybe my opinion will change after I shoot it a bit.

-The real question is if I'm going to reblue it or not. As of right now I'm thinking no, but I've done Oxpho-Blue before and it's usually turned out well. Don't think I'd pay to have this hot blued or Cerakoted. Maybe I'll get an itch for a project later.
 
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Mosin Bubba said:
All right, the revolver came today, so it's picture time. Much cleaner than I thought it would be. Bluing is in bad shape, but no grime or rust.

index.php



Couple of thoughts:

-This is the stock image that Bud's sold it with. Every surplus gun will be different, but judging on the one I got, I'd say it's a fair representation.
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/images/hiRes/411558617_2.jpg

-Don't think I am going to clean this gun past pulling the grips, blasting it with brake cleaner, and re-oiling.

-The grip looks ugly, but it fits nicely in my hands. It's staying for sure.

-Just idly cocking and dry-firing it, the hammer and trigger seem to be smooth.

-The heavy barrel is fatter than I thought it'd be. Would prefer a pencil barrel, but oh well, it's $269. Maybe my opinion will change after I shoot it a bit.

-The real question is if I'm going to reblue it or not. As of right now I'm thinking no, but I've done Oxpho-Blue before and it's usually turned out well. Don't think I'd pay to have this hot blued or Cerakoted. Maybe I'll get an itch for a project later.
Click to expand...
i just did an early model 10 yesterday came out very nice it in the oil tank right now. i ill get some pics Tuesday when i assemble it. if your were local to me id trow it in the blue for u. and your right about the grips. the one i did has nice wood ones. hope he shots good.
 
Mosin Bubba said:
I'll admit, there's a redneck part of me that just wants to throw the gun (sans grips) into a bucket of paint thinner and let it do its thing.

How hard is it to remove the side plate? I had always just figured it was a metal cover held on by screws, but Nightlord40K above is saying that it can go flying. This is the part that kinda worries me about revolvers, I don't know what I don't know about them.
Click to expand...

I remove the side plate on every used revolver I buy. Some have been nasty inside and some sparkling, but you’ll never know until the plate is off. Only thing that ever comes out is the hammer block, but it is super easy to put back in. Watch some YouTube videos.

Use a proper fitting screwdriver and keep the screws in the proper order as you remove them so as not to mix them up. Turn the gun over so the sideplate is facing the bench just above the bench. Rap the grip frame with the handle of the screwdriver a few times and the plate will work itself out. Do NOT pry it up! Hose out the inside with break cleaner and then blow out with compressed air. Very lightly lube and put plate back on. You’ll see there is a little nub on the upper right of the plate. Slide that part under the frame first and press plate in. Put screws back in. Before you put the cylinder back in clean out the area of the frame that the yoke slides into to. I’ve pulled some sludge out of there.

Spraying brake cleaner into the guts with the plate still on does not do a thourough enough job.
 
On a used one, I always pull the side plate to check for rust and old gummy petrified lube. Homerboy's instructions are pretty much what I do, though if I see rust, I remove everything and clean with CLP and a nylon brush. A previous owner could have sprayed who-knows-what in there. Can't trust those previous owners!
 
I don't see much more reason to pull the sideplate on a S&W revolver for "cleaning" than I do for pulling the heads off the engine every time I wash a car. That doesn't mean the others are wrong, it just means that I'm lazy.

Pull the cylinder and the grips, then spray anything that looks like an opening with Gunscrubber or something similar. Then put a drop or two of oil here and there. It'll find it's way to where it's supposed to go. Put the cylinder back in, put the grips back on and shoot it. You don't need a lot of oil, but if you put in too much, it will just run back out, and you'll just have to wipe it off again. No problem.

If I want to clean the outside, I use Flitz polish. People say it will damage the finish but I've never seen any damage to any of mine. I don't use it on a gun that looks good already, but with something like these, you got nothing to lose really. You'd be surprised the amount to almost microscopic rust, dried body oil and "crud" you'll take off. Apply with your fingertips, and polish by hand with a soft, dry cloth. GENTLY! You're trying to polish, not sand a counter top. One time is usually enough. Then oil the exterior, or use Renaissance Wax if you prefer (I do). Again apply Renaissance Wax with your fingertips, allow to dry to a haze, and GENTLY buff off with a soft rag.
 
Years ago I had a 3" Model 10 that I gave to my brother-in-law. He works hard and has a family to support and doesn't make a whole lot so good thing to do I thought. I picked that one up as a police trade in too. I sprayed it without taking off the side plate when I got it and after that once in a while. Before I gave it to him I opened it up and the amount of caked in crud I found was surprising. So I did a total disassembly and had to use a brass brush, mineral spirits, and q-tips to get the crap out. After that I will pull that plate off anything new that comes my way. You never know what the inside will be like. The cleaning I did seemed to improve the trigger and cylinder release operation.
 
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