45 Dragoon
Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2013
- Messages
- 2,772
I was wondering what mods (if any) most folks do or get done to their Open Top revolvers (including cartridge O.T.'s). I go through mine as soon as I get them (before shooting) to "fix" what the factory did or didn't do. Keep in mind, I am not complaining. I think the Italians do a great job filling a huge need for us and at a reasonable cost. I add things that are needed such as a hammer stop and filler in the arbor hole as needed/ if needed. I start with the hammer stop, which stops all movement and prevents bashing of the hand. I do this by drilling and tapping a hole in the trigger guard and installing a set screw for the mainspring to bottom out on. The stopping point is dictated by the engagement of the full cock notch. At full cock, the trigger sear snaps under the notch and at the same time, the bolt locks the cylinder. The Colt S.A.A. (1873) has a built in stop. The hand has a boss where it attaches to the hammer. As the hammer is thumbed back, this boss contacts the stop when the hand reaches it's full travel.
Since our clones/copies don't have stops built in, this would be a worthwhile mod. If your revolver was in time before the stop was installed, it should still be "in time" ( as long as it's not binding while holding the hammer back). This will save you from replacing "worn out " hands ( they shouldn't wear out).
After smoothing and polishing (correctly) the action, I tune the springs to my liking. Then it's time to attend the barrel / cylinder gap. Yes, the short arbor thing !!!
Since this has been covered VERY well here at THR, I will spare the time and space. The only thing I would add is, resurfaced metal moves. It "sets", "wears in" when you shoot (That's why new guns are tight when you get um, loose after you shoot um !!!) I install cartridge conversions to be permanent so I go for a tighter gap (.003-.005) (I also don't reload any blk. powder). In doing so, I fit them to zero tolerance. This means NO binding of the cylinder whatsoever and a free spinning cylinder at half cock but no observed gap when pulling back on the cylinder with hammer down. When fired at the range, the natural "setting" will give you your barrel/ cylinder gap. My Dragoons will go to the range with a .004" gap, shoot all day and come home with a .004" gap. Life is grand !!!
Since our clones/copies don't have stops built in, this would be a worthwhile mod. If your revolver was in time before the stop was installed, it should still be "in time" ( as long as it's not binding while holding the hammer back). This will save you from replacing "worn out " hands ( they shouldn't wear out).
After smoothing and polishing (correctly) the action, I tune the springs to my liking. Then it's time to attend the barrel / cylinder gap. Yes, the short arbor thing !!!
Since this has been covered VERY well here at THR, I will spare the time and space. The only thing I would add is, resurfaced metal moves. It "sets", "wears in" when you shoot (That's why new guns are tight when you get um, loose after you shoot um !!!) I install cartridge conversions to be permanent so I go for a tighter gap (.003-.005) (I also don't reload any blk. powder). In doing so, I fit them to zero tolerance. This means NO binding of the cylinder whatsoever and a free spinning cylinder at half cock but no observed gap when pulling back on the cylinder with hammer down. When fired at the range, the natural "setting" will give you your barrel/ cylinder gap. My Dragoons will go to the range with a .004" gap, shoot all day and come home with a .004" gap. Life is grand !!!
Last edited: