Colt SAA help

Buy to Rope & Ride

  • $1200 Colt Montana

    Votes: 2 11.8%
  • $1500 Colt Samuel Special

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Don’t buy

    Votes: 9 52.9%
  • Both Guns cuz 2 is 1 & 1 is none

    Votes: 6 35.3%

  • Total voters
    17
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About that rolling thing, I reckon it all has to do with your preferred shooting style. If it's got lots of nasty recoil then I can see wanting it to roll in your hand. My preference is to grip the pistol very loose with my thumb tip touching the recoil shield controlling the amount it can roll. I learned this from a retired cop that used to win a turkey shoot every year in Southern Arizona with a snub nose .38. The loose grip gets the shaking down by a substantial amount compared to having a death grip on the gun.
 
I have a question about checkered grips on SAA's. It seems to me that the SAA is a design that should "roll" in the hand upon recoil. If that's the assumption, then smooth grips would be more comfortable than checkered grips. Anyway, I found that the checkered Eagle grips were "biting" my hand. The one-piece smooth walnut worked better for me.

Howdy Again

This pair of 2nd Gen Colts is my Main Match pair of pistols in CAS. They get fired more than any of my other Colts, with full house 45 Colts loaded with Black Powder. The one at the top shipped in 1973, the one at the bottom shipped in 1968. Notice the one at the bottom has no blue left at all, and the colors of the Case Hardening are all gone. Before I bought it a previous owner 'antiqued' by stripping all the blue and he removed the Case Colors, probably by using Naval Jelly or some other solvent to remove the colors. That is what I meant when I said the colors of Case Hardening are fragile and easy to remove. Anyway, when fired with my standard Black Powder loads recoil is stout. Not overpowering, but stout. I learned a long time ago that the best way to fire stout loads in a SAA was to not try to cram my entire hand onto the grip. Doing so puts the knuckle of my index finger in contact with the rear of the trigger guard and the knuckle gets whacked in recoil. And it hurts. Instead I curl my pinky under the grip. This lowers my hand on the grip, and most importantly it opens up a space of about 1/4" between the rear of the trigger guard and my knuckle. I can shoot these Colts all day this way, and my knuckle does not get whacked. The other part is I do not hold them in a vice grip. I hold them a little bit loosely, and yes the grip rotates a little bit in my hand when they are fired. The checkering and raised detail on the grips does not prevent them from rolling in my hand, I hold them loosely enough that they rotated freely.

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These photos demonstrate how I hold a Colt with my pinky curled under the grip and how my thumb is able to reach up and cock the hammer.

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This video should give you an idea of what I am talking about. Please excuse the rubber boots, it was a rainy day.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FcCOlbFibMA
 
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I never understood the "rolling in your hand" nonsense. I don't want my sixguns moving within my grip at all when I shoot but I also don't want checkered grips. The pinky under hold prevents your grip shifting.

You also do not want to lock your elbows or use a white knuckle grip. It should be like a firm handshake and your wrists and elbows should absorb the recoil. You're not going to manhandle it and keep the muzzle from coming up, so let it rise.
 
@Driftwood Johnson

This is the way I hold my Peacemaker when I shoot.

There's a functionally ergonomic design to the shape of the grip and I'm quite sure Sam Colt didn't design it that way by accident.

Guns of similar design in that era had similar grips for a reason. A revolver has a fairly highly mounted barrel axis which lends itself to significant muzzle rise and "torque" on the wrist, especially in larger calibers with larger powder loads.

Such guns COULD have been easily designed with a flatter, more angular grip similar to that of typical semi-automatics of later decades. But they didn't.

Imagine the difference in muzzle rise and wrist torque on a 1911 if its barrel axis were raised to match that of the SAA. The 1911 grip wouldn't be "fun" at all after a bit of shooting.
 
I never understood the "rolling in your hand" nonsense. I don't want my sixguns moving within my grip at all when I shoot but I also don't want checkered grips. The pinky under hold prevents your grip shifting.

You also do not want to lock your elbows or use a white knuckle grip. It should be like a firm handshake and your wrists and elbows should absorb the recoil. You're not going to manhandle it and keep the muzzle from coming up, so let it rise.
I grip HARD and just slightly unlock my elbow.

From my USPSA days, I tried the whole “Elbow shock absorbing” thing. Slowed me down.

Grip Hard, then add 20% more
 
I’m just playing around! entertainment! But I can’t wait to scuff up the 1964 that the shop said it in unfired condition. Shame to see a gun unfired

EXACTLY!

The target you see in my post above was the first six shots from my new, unfired SAA when I got it!

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Post 111

The "This is a collector's firearm" out of the owner's manual!
 
EXACTLY!

The target you see in my post above was the first six shots from my new, unfired SAA when I got it!

EDIT:

Post 111

The "This is a collector's firearm" out of the owner's manual!

I can't leave a gun unfired. If I've got a gun it will be fired even if I have to figure out a way to make ammo for it (been there, done that). One of the most collectable guns I have is a S&W 1926 3rd model. It was close to 100% when I got it. It's considerably less now. Collectors be damned.
 
I can't leave a gun unfired. If I've got a gun it will be fired even if I have to figure out a way to make ammo for it (been there, done that). One of the most collectable guns I have is a S&W 1926 3rd model. It was close to 100% when I got it. It's considerably less now. Collectors be damned.
Collectors need to stop bring so picky! lol … it’s gun, not baseball cards
 
Collectors want pristine guns. The closer to new the better. Then they will languish in a safe somewhere never to be fired again. I may devalue my guns but I take guns away from the collectors. Guns were made to be used, not to sit in a safe somewhere. If I had a pristine 1873 Colt with a single digit serial number with provenance it had never been fired I'd shoot the snot out of it.
 
Collectors want pristine guns. The closer to new the better. Then they will languish in a safe somewhere never to be fired again. I may devalue my guns but I take guns away from the collectors. Guns were made to be used, not to sit in a safe somewhere. If I had a pristine 1873 Colt with a single digit serial number with provenance it had never been fired I'd shoot the snot out of it.
Hawg… I like you man! don’t care what @Rustmangler say about you.
 
Collectors want pristine guns. The closer to new the better. Then they will languish in a safe somewhere never to be fired again. I may devalue my guns but I take guns away from the collectors. Guns were made to be used, not to sit in a safe somewhere. If I had a pristine 1873 Colt with a single digit serial number with provenance it had never been fired I'd shoot the snot out of it.

I have said this before and I will say it again.

I am tired of guys who look down their noses at collectors.

What makes you guys think that all collectors want is pristine guns?

I am a collector. My collection has guns from all eras, the oldest being the little 22 Short S&W No 1 Tip Up 1st Issue, 5th Type at the top of this photo that was made in 1859. Have I ever shot it? No, and I do not intend to. Modern 22 shorts would probably damage it.

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I bought this Savage North Navy Cap & Ball revolver a few years ago because I thought they are very cool, and this one was inexpensive enough that I could afford it. No, I have not shot it yet, but I have not ruled out the possibility.

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S&W Model 1926? I've got you covered. This one shipped in 1929. It was carried by an officer through WWII, I even have the holster he carried it in. It was so worn that at some point somebody had it refinished (badly at that) and nickel plated. Have I shot it? You bet.

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Triple Locks. For many years my Holy Grail gun was a Triple Lock. This one shipped in 1913, and it is a pristine target model. No, I am not going to shoot it.

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This Triple Lock is a very early one, it shipped in 1907and the serial number is less than 200. The grips are so worn the checkering is almost gone and there is hardly any blue left on it at all. The high end collectors were not interested in it so I got it for a song. Have I shot it? You bet. I

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A couple of favorites, a S&W New Model Number Three that shipped in 1882 and was refinished at the factory in 1965, and a Merwin Hulbert Pocket Army that was made sometime between 1881 and 1883. This pair gets taken to a CAS match usually once a year and yes they sure as shooting get fired.

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These are just a few. So spare me your negative thoughts about collectors. I can tell you for a fact that I do not buy old guns as investments, unless you run into something incredibly rare you will do better investing in the stock market than buying old guns. I collect old guns because I am fascinated with them. If I don't want to shoot one because I know it will blow up with modern ammo, or because I want to keep it pristine, that is my business, nobody else's.

P.S. Regarding that Colt that Colt said was a 'collector's firearm': Colt was doing that to cover their butt against lawsuits. Colt was afraid somebody would load six rounds, then drop the thing and have it go off when the hammer hit the ground. So they included that note to cover their butts against lawsuits. Why do you think the Italian imported replicas of the Colt have to have a safety device of some sort while Colts do not? For the same reason. Colt has gotten away with keeping the mechanism the same as it was in 1873, and not having to include a safety device, by declaring the SAA is a 'collector's firearm'.
 
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