witchhunter
Member
heavydeluxe, Sinclair sells a tool that holds a deburring tool in a cordless drill. That makes it all better when you have a few hundred cases to do. bzzz. bzzz. done.
Confessions of a N00b
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I've got to agree. The people on this forum have been very helpful to a new reloader. Ask a question and you get a lot of positive feedback.
scottishkat
Member
Removing primers installed backwards
This has happenned to me twice now. Both times I removed with my press by backing out my decapping pin to the point where I new it would not contact the primer. Then run the case into the resizing die once fully in the die tighten the decapping pin until the primer came out.
Eye and Hearing protection sure but I have not had one go off.
Goodluck and shoot straight
Bob
This has happenned to me twice now. Both times I removed with my press by backing out my decapping pin to the point where I new it would not contact the primer. Then run the case into the resizing die once fully in the die tighten the decapping pin until the primer came out.
Eye and Hearing protection sure but I have not had one go off.
Goodluck and shoot straight
Bob
Swampman
Old Fart
Most Lee equipment is inexpensive but still does an excellent job.
Their case chamfer and deburring tool is just flat CHEAP, with all the negative connotations that the word implies.
Their case chamfer and deburring tool is just flat CHEAP, with all the negative connotations that the word implies.
Actually, the Lee chamfer tool works fine for me--provided you are chamfering bottleneck case long enough. It is NOT for pistol cartridges and, therefore, is less than totally useful.
Also, you only need a slight chamfer. Some sound like they are honing a razor-edge rather than chamfering.
Also, you only need a slight chamfer. Some sound like they are honing a razor-edge rather than chamfering.
heavydluxe
Member
Bumping my own thread, since this seems like a question other newbie reloaders would also have.
In today's post in the reloading components for sale thread, there are several sources for .223/5.56 once-fired brass listed. A couple indicate that their lots of cases contain 'no SAW brass".
Now, I know what the SAW is, but I guess it's unclear to me why you wouldn't want once-fired brass from that kind of gun. I have a 'loose' guess, but I'd love to hear someone more seasoned chime in.
In today's post in the reloading components for sale thread, there are several sources for .223/5.56 once-fired brass listed. A couple indicate that their lots of cases contain 'no SAW brass".
Now, I know what the SAW is, but I guess it's unclear to me why you wouldn't want once-fired brass from that kind of gun. I have a 'loose' guess, but I'd love to hear someone more seasoned chime in.
Weber
Member
Saw brass normally gets dented really bad, you may be able to clean it up, but it puts a major weak spot in the brass.
Also the saw has a loose chamber that allows for the case to be expanded more than normal. And sometime the extractor will tear up the rim, or bend the rim.
Typically most saw brass is not reusable due to the condition after being fired.
Also the saw has a loose chamber that allows for the case to be expanded more than normal. And sometime the extractor will tear up the rim, or bend the rim.
Typically most saw brass is not reusable due to the condition after being fired.
heavydluxe
Member
hi, Weber... Thanks! I had an inkling re: the loose chamber angle, but didn't know about the case deformation.
Elkton, MD, eh? Spent a lot of time in/around there growing up.
Elkton, MD, eh? Spent a lot of time in/around there growing up.
Swampman
Old Fart
Originally Posted by: Weber
I'd have to say that the statement: "most saw brass is not reusable", is a bit overblown in my experience.
While SAW brass is generally more beat up than the cases fired in most M4's, the vast majority isn't unusable, although it may take more prep time and usually won't last as long.
Occasionally you will get a batch with a high percentage of totally trashed brass, this is probably due to being fired through a barrel that wasn't properly set up and "mated" to that SAW. For this reason, it's a good idea to do the paperclip test on all used brass you acquire, particularly military brass that may have been fired with out of spec headspace.
As for the dents, unless they're so deep as to constitute an actual crease, they're really just a cosmetic issue. The dents will shoot out on the first reloading cycle and you won't even be able to tell where they were.
I'd have to say that the statement: "most saw brass is not reusable", is a bit overblown in my experience.
While SAW brass is generally more beat up than the cases fired in most M4's, the vast majority isn't unusable, although it may take more prep time and usually won't last as long.
Occasionally you will get a batch with a high percentage of totally trashed brass, this is probably due to being fired through a barrel that wasn't properly set up and "mated" to that SAW. For this reason, it's a good idea to do the paperclip test on all used brass you acquire, particularly military brass that may have been fired with out of spec headspace.
As for the dents, unless they're so deep as to constitute an actual crease, they're really just a cosmetic issue. The dents will shoot out on the first reloading cycle and you won't even be able to tell where they were.
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