OP
OP
Here are a few closeups showing the main features. Note the brass track, off-centered cable guide and metal stirrup:
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Crisbow Crossbow (pic heavy)
- Thread starter Odd Job
- Start date
OP
OP
There were some documents with this crossbow also. Firstly a manual:
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OP
OP
And there was also a fold-out catalogue:
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OP
OP
I'll let you know how that imbuia version shoots once I have put a scope on it.
I also managed to get hold of a Cheetah MKIII GRP (glass reinforced plastic) stock and I'll be taking photos of that alongside of my MKIV stock to highlight any differences.
I also managed to get hold of a Cheetah MKIII GRP (glass reinforced plastic) stock and I'll be taking photos of that alongside of my MKIV stock to highlight any differences.
Doem
Member
Very good buy that. I found that my trigger is very hard to pull. Any suggestion on how to make it lighter and smoother?
OP
OP
Hi Doem
I opened up a Quadro trigger mechanism to have a look at the springs and it seems to me (in my humble newbie opinion) that there isn't much that can be done about it besides maybe spraying the mechanism with Remoil or similar lubricant. Most of that trigger resistance is due to tension on the string. I don't have the means to measure the trigger pull on mine, or we could compare weights.
I'm going to post detailed pictures of the access to the trigger mechanism in the next few weeks, with thanks again going to Risxc for describing the procedure in previous posts.
I opened up a Quadro trigger mechanism to have a look at the springs and it seems to me (in my humble newbie opinion) that there isn't much that can be done about it besides maybe spraying the mechanism with Remoil or similar lubricant. Most of that trigger resistance is due to tension on the string. I don't have the means to measure the trigger pull on mine, or we could compare weights.
I'm going to post detailed pictures of the access to the trigger mechanism in the next few weeks, with thanks again going to Risxc for describing the procedure in previous posts.
OP
OP
I opened two trigger mechanisms: one was on a well-used Cheetah MKIV and the other was a never-fired Cheetah MKIII. The process is the same for both so I'll post pictures of the MKIII sequence here. Many thanks to RISXC for describing the process originally.
First, you need to remove any pins holding the plastic dovetail rail insert to the main scope/sight mount. In this case there was one pin (arrowed):
Next, wind the elevation nut (blue arrow) all the way up by turning it counter clockwise. Note under the nut there is a plastic hook (yellow arrow) which is part of the dovetail insert and which must be moved rearward before it can be released:
You can now move the dovetail insert rearward and lift the rear up, just make sure you don't damage the coil spring whilst freeing up the insert:
With the insert removed you now have access to the knurled nut and the spring (arrowed). Remove the spring and then get a hex key for the grub screw in the center of the knurled nut.
Hold the nut tight with your left hand and loosen the grub screw with the hex key, remove the grub screw entirely.
You now need to slide the knurled nut out. It will only come out the right side, and it is a tight fit. In my case it would not come out unless I used a flat screwdriver to lever it out:
With the knurled nut out, you have access to the main screw holding the sight/scope mount onto the frame. Unscrew that (blue arrow):
Now you can remove the mount by lifting the front up (arrowed). The rear sits in a recess in the frame, take care not to damage the mount or the recess:
Continued...
First, you need to remove any pins holding the plastic dovetail rail insert to the main scope/sight mount. In this case there was one pin (arrowed):
Next, wind the elevation nut (blue arrow) all the way up by turning it counter clockwise. Note under the nut there is a plastic hook (yellow arrow) which is part of the dovetail insert and which must be moved rearward before it can be released:
You can now move the dovetail insert rearward and lift the rear up, just make sure you don't damage the coil spring whilst freeing up the insert:
With the insert removed you now have access to the knurled nut and the spring (arrowed). Remove the spring and then get a hex key for the grub screw in the center of the knurled nut.
Hold the nut tight with your left hand and loosen the grub screw with the hex key, remove the grub screw entirely.
You now need to slide the knurled nut out. It will only come out the right side, and it is a tight fit. In my case it would not come out unless I used a flat screwdriver to lever it out:
With the knurled nut out, you have access to the main screw holding the sight/scope mount onto the frame. Unscrew that (blue arrow):
Now you can remove the mount by lifting the front up (arrowed). The rear sits in a recess in the frame, take care not to damage the mount or the recess:
Continued...
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OP
OP
You can now see the trigger mechanism but you cannot pull it out yet!
You need to take the safety catch off (orange arrow) and then whilst pulling the trigger you need to move the cable catch (green arrow) forward.
You then have access to the lower screw securing the trigger mechanism to the frame. Unscrew that (blue arrow):
Removed:
Don't try to pull the plastic buffer out of the front, it is retained under the trigger mechanism floor plate! Instead, gently rock the mechanism out. A flat screw driver at the top rear (white arrow) will help, and the plastic buffer will rise with the trigger mechanism. Use the cable catch (yellow arrow) to lift the front:
Lift up the whole mechanism until the floor plate (white arrow) is clear of the track and the buffer (red arrow):
You can then rotate the trigger mechanism clear of the plastic buffer:
You can now take out the trigger mechanism and you will have a lot more space to get at the plastic buffer if you want to take it out (but there is no need unless it is damaged).
I will show you the components of the trigger mechanism next...
You need to take the safety catch off (orange arrow) and then whilst pulling the trigger you need to move the cable catch (green arrow) forward.
You then have access to the lower screw securing the trigger mechanism to the frame. Unscrew that (blue arrow):
Removed:
Don't try to pull the plastic buffer out of the front, it is retained under the trigger mechanism floor plate! Instead, gently rock the mechanism out. A flat screw driver at the top rear (white arrow) will help, and the plastic buffer will rise with the trigger mechanism. Use the cable catch (yellow arrow) to lift the front:
Lift up the whole mechanism until the floor plate (white arrow) is clear of the track and the buffer (red arrow):
You can then rotate the trigger mechanism clear of the plastic buffer:
You can now take out the trigger mechanism and you will have a lot more space to get at the plastic buffer if you want to take it out (but there is no need unless it is damaged).
I will show you the components of the trigger mechanism next...
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OP
OP
Now that you have the trigger mechanism out, you can use the same hex key from before to remove the single machine screw that holds the mechanism together:
When the screw is removed the side plate can come off and you can see the innards. There are two plastic spacers and one metal washer to be removed next:
Next, the cable catch:
Once that is removed, you have access to the safety catch:
Remove that carefully:
You can now get at the safety catch spring and a safety catch plastic spacer (not shown is a metal washer on the underside of that spacer):
Next there is a sear arm which sits on the trigger plate:
Once that is out, you have access to the trigger itself:
If you turn the unit over carefully you can see where the trigger spring hooks on:
Continued...
When the screw is removed the side plate can come off and you can see the innards. There are two plastic spacers and one metal washer to be removed next:
Next, the cable catch:
Once that is removed, you have access to the safety catch:
Remove that carefully:
You can now get at the safety catch spring and a safety catch plastic spacer (not shown is a metal washer on the underside of that spacer):
Next there is a sear arm which sits on the trigger plate:
Once that is out, you have access to the trigger itself:
If you turn the unit over carefully you can see where the trigger spring hooks on:
Continued...
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Doem
Member
awesome. This will help me a lot. Thanks
OP
OP
Here's the spring without the trigger:
This is for Doem, a picture of the trigger spring:
And lastly all the components of the trigger mechanism laid out (remember there is a metal washer under one spacer):
This is for Doem, a picture of the trigger spring:
And lastly all the components of the trigger mechanism laid out (remember there is a metal washer under one spacer):
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Doem
Member
Hi guys
I am looking for a new set of cams for my MK3 Crissbow. Could it be re-manufactured out of aluminium? Mine still functions but not in to great a shape. Please help
I am looking for a new set of cams for my MK3 Crissbow. Could it be re-manufactured out of aluminium? Mine still functions but not in to great a shape. Please help
OP
OP
I can't see a reason why aluminium won't work, but the issue will be how it is manufactured. You might be able to send the existing cams to a company who can laser scan them and then make them in a CNC process but I suspect that will be quite expensive!
OP
OP
Welcome to the High Road, Defjust.
I suggest you start a new thread and include the following information:
1) Your location
2) Pictures of the crossbow (all the components and spares, if any)
3) Price
If you don't get any interest, you can also try Crossbow Nation:
http://www.crossbownation.com/forum/index.php?
I suggest you start a new thread and include the following information:
1) Your location
2) Pictures of the crossbow (all the components and spares, if any)
3) Price
If you don't get any interest, you can also try Crossbow Nation:
http://www.crossbownation.com/forum/index.php?
Doem
Member
Hi guys. I am still looking for a set of cams for my Mk111 please
I like the versions with wooden Imbuia stock. Can anyone help me or offer crossbow for sale? Thanks a lot!
OP
OP
Daniel, SSA archery definitely has old stock of the imbuia version of the Quadro. The problem is they are based in Belgium and have dealer connections mainly in Europe. Here is their updated contact page:
http://www.ssa-archery.be/sporting-goods-blankenberge_contact.asp?taal=en
The guy I dealt with was Axel. He sent the crossbow to Chiltern archery in the UK and I got it from them for around £200.
http://www.ssa-archery.be/sporting-goods-blankenberge_contact.asp?taal=en
The guy I dealt with was Axel. He sent the crossbow to Chiltern archery in the UK and I got it from them for around £200.
OP
OP
Edit: see post 175 for a 3D file which you can use to have a spare buffer printed from thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU)
Hi Pieter1, welcome to the high road.
I have a crossbow where that plastic buffer has perished over the years. I was able to make another one out of laminated acrylic but I found that the material was too brittle, the string catch cracked the new buffer after only 2 shots.
I was able to make another one from pine, which has lasted very well, but if I had to do it over again I would use a dense rubber instead.
I don't think you are going to be able to buy that buffer but it is not difficult to make.
Is you buffer broken or missing? Do you need the dimensions?
Hi Pieter1, welcome to the high road.
I have a crossbow where that plastic buffer has perished over the years. I was able to make another one out of laminated acrylic but I found that the material was too brittle, the string catch cracked the new buffer after only 2 shots.
I was able to make another one from pine, which has lasted very well, but if I had to do it over again I would use a dense rubber instead.
I don't think you are going to be able to buy that buffer but it is not difficult to make.
Is you buffer broken or missing? Do you need the dimensions?
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Doem
Member
Hi guys. I have the MK3 Crisbow and have been looking for cams for over a year. Well great news - found a guy that made me two aluminium ones. Exactly as the old rubber ones. Going to fit it sometimes. Included a pic of the new ones
OP
OP
Would be good to see a pic of the new cams mounted, and a link to who makes them.
Doem
Member
Hi all
The person who makes the cams is Gerhard Minnie in Uitenhage, South Africa, just of Port Elizabeth. Hi email is [email protected].
The person who makes the cams is Gerhard Minnie in Uitenhage, South Africa, just of Port Elizabeth. Hi email is [email protected].
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