Current production S&W Mdl 10 vs M&P .38

[Mr. Mosin]

I had the opportunity to fire a box of ammo through my friend’s WW2 era M&P .38 (what would go on to become the Mdl 10, from my understanding). With 158 grn LRN, this beauty was a tackdriver at any and all ranges, and it was very easy to handle. 4 3/4 tapered, pinned barrel, nickel plated, and locked up tighter than the vaults at Ft. Knox.

(As a side note, I ragged my cousin about his new Taurus 608). Told him my buddy has a 75 year old S&W .38 that has been used and abused, and STILL functions better and locks up tighter than his new Taurus. He didn’t take that too well.


Anyways, my question is; how will a new production Mdl 10 compare to a old warhorse like my buddies ? On a sidenote, is the new production worth $700, and what is the old M&P worth ?

 

[gotboostvr]

For what the new model 10's cost, I'd grab a 66 or 686 for not much more.

There's so many good used ones on the market for 1/3-1/2 the price of new I'd FOR SURE go that route.

The new ones might not have all the TLC the old ones got, but I've had fantastic ones of recent manufacture and stinkers from days gone by.

They're great guns that'll hold up to a few lifetimes of heavy use of +P usage.

 

[ontarget]

I have both older (early 70s) and newer production S&W 38s. All shoot well. Someone will come along with all of the material differences. I prefer the older models but only because I don't like the appearance of that dang lock on the newer models. In my opinion you can't go wrong with either choice.
BTW welcome to THR.

 

[Mr. Mosin]

@ ontarget thanks for the welcome.
@ gotboostvr I’ll bear that in mind.

 

[CoalTrain49]

I have a bunch of older S&W's. 19's mostly. I have a newer 625-8 also with an internal lock. They all shoot pretty well. I also have an old Taurus that has a canted barrel. It came that way from the factory. I used it exclusively to train dogs to hunt so never realized it was canted until last year when I took it to the range with loaded ammo.

My understanding is that many new S&W's are coming from the factory with some serious problems. They will fix those without charge but it's a real PIA to have to send a new revolver back to make it right.

My advice is to stay away from Taurus and new S&W products. Educate yourself about how to buy an older S&W (pre lock) and scrounge around until you find one in decent shape. They aren't hard to find.

Start here.

 

[BSA1]

Thanks in large part to restrictive gun laws been passed in States such as California demand for basic 3” & 4” barrel revolvers in those States are increasing and along with it the price.

In other words I would not wait for the price to come down.

 

[Pat Riot]

My understanding is that many new S&W's are coming from the factory with some serious problems. They will fix those without charge but it's a real PIA to have to send a new revolver back to make it right.

Really? Do you have details on these problems? I have heard of occasional issues but not many and not many “serious” problems.

 

[Barry loyd]

I bought mine for $349. It’s a 10-6 from 1974’ish. I like it more than my GP100.

 

[Waveski]

Mr Mosin ,

You can certainly find a vintage M&P or model 10 in very good working order for less than $700.
Now , if you wish to drop that amount of money for a modern reproduction with a hideous hole in it and a lot of mim parts , that is up to you.
IIRC I have 8 M&Ps , including variations such as a couple of 15s , a 14 and a 10 or two. All were well below $700. None have The Hole.

 

[Speedo66]

AIM Surplus has used stainless versions of the model 10, the model 64, for less than $400.

 

[Tallball]

The AIM ones looked like good deals to me. Fortunately or unfortunately, I already have two Model 10's and an M&P.

If the OP doesn't mind a used one, they aren't hard to find for $400 or less.

I have one from 1915-16, one from the early 60's, and one from the late 70's. They all work just fine.

 

[P5 Guy]

My 10-5 snub-nosed square butt revolver sat in a sock drawer for decades. Serial says 1967 ship date, when I bought this revolver in 2017 for $450.00 the only blemish was some freckles from sitting on the paperwork for 50 years. Came with the proper box, paperwork and cleaning kit.
Yes, I was told I paid too much but I look at as paying too early.

 

[GRIZ22]

I have a few Model 10s. You can't have too many Model 10s. The oldest is from the late 60s and the newest from the early 80s. They are not that popular where I live. The most I have ever paid was $300. That was for a pristine 6". The least, recently just a few years ago, was $100 in VG/EX condition. That was for a security agency gun that was carried a lot and shot little.

All these purchases were from private parties. Yes, I pretty much buy only bargains.

If you're looking to buy a 75 year old nickle plated gun there are a few cautions. First it is 75 year old metallurgy. I wouldn't use +P ammo. No issues in a newer gun.

Nickel plated guns are nice. Don't ever use a solvent containing ammonia or other copper solvent. Nickel guns are first plated with copper. If there is a microscopic pinhole in the finish a copper solvent will eventually work it's way through and cause the nickel to flake.

OTOH I am not a Taurus hater. Bought my first in 1988. No problems I haven't seen in S&Ws. Triggers vary from not as good but nothing you can't work with to actually better than S&W out of the box. I own a few and among them a 15 year old 608. The quality is not far off from a S&W IMO. That's my experience.

 

[Sistema1927]

I have older S&W revolvers, such as a Mod 64 no dash and pre-Model 10.

Yet, I have recently purchased two 64-8 surplus revolvers, a 4" and a re-imported 3". Both have the "infernal lock" and two piece barrels, but both are exceptionally smooth and great shooters. For less than $400 each they were great bargains.

 

[Riomouse911]

I have my Great Uncles old duty M&P duty gun that he carried when he worked Las Vegas PD 1945-1965. 20 years of desert sweat and someone etching an armory number on the side plate has worn on the exterior, but the trigger pull/ cylinder lockup is really good.

I’m not a great shot with the narrow half-moon front sight/channel rear, I find them a tough combination compared to more modern-wider ramp front sights like my M-13 has.

The thinner barrel and lack of a shroud over the ejector rod of the M&P brings the balance point back towards my hand more than the heavier barrel of more modern M-10 guns, which even with the 4” barrel feels to me to have a bit more weight out front. I like this slightly muzzle heavy feel over the lighter front end on the M&P.

Both are great guns, the difference is really in the sights and feel for me. I prefer the newer guns myself... but that’s just my personal preference.

Stay safe.

 

[labnoti]

Once any problems are worked out with the new ones, I think they are better than many but not all of the old ones. Problems can be things like burrs, excessive b/c gap, misfit parts that scrape, dings and scratches from the factory, and light-strike misfires. These problems can be serious in the sense that there is no quick fix even for a gunsmith. While the misfires might be the only problem that I mentioned which might be functionally serious, solving some of the other problems could include replacing the barrel or refinishing the entire gun. It is my experience that S&W will do whatever it takes. I cannot fault their customer service. But I also would not expect to order or buy off the shelf a revolver without needing to send it back. I have less experience with Ruger, but it has been exactly the same.

I believe the old S&W's were hit or miss. Some of them were among the finest examples of production revolvers ever made. Many others were far less than that. The new MIM parts and ECM barrels are consistently perfect. I don't see how anyone could fault these parts. They're all produced by a process that practically guarantees they're flawless. The old parts were produced by people operating a machine that could do a great job or a sketchy one. Over the course of more than a hundred years, it wasn't all a great job. The Hellstrom-era guns were more likely to be good. The Bangor-Punta days weren't better than now. I'm convinced that S&W is slowly improving their revolvers. That's pretty significant when you consider that nobody has made a serious attempt to best S&W revolvers for a long time.

 

[Jonesy814]

I have an old M&P from 1911, another from 1955 as well as a 1981 model 64, all with 4 inch barrels. The heavy barrel 64 is my favorite to shoot. A friend got a newer model 64 from SOG last year for about $300. It is an excellent shooter with a great trigger

 

[MacAR]

For what the new model 10's cost, I'd grab a 66 or 686 for not much more.

+1 on that! I only gave $395 for my pristine 66-3 in 2017. I run on to old K frames locally anywhere from $250 (fair condition M10.) to $750 (pristine M19 no dash in box), and I'd far rather pay for one of them as a new one from S&W. Most of the old Smiths I find have a little history behind them too. Most of them were owned by a law enforcement office of some sort, so they tend to have a good story or two to go along with them. Seems like people here look down on hand guns, and those that own them don't shoot them for fun or practice much. They're "just in case" guns, for use against snakes, or home invaders. This may be why I find so many of them in "carried a lot, shot very little" condition. But, getting back on topic, I'm sure if you'll do a little shopping and check out places on the internet like guns international or simpson ltd, etc. you'll be able to find a better deal than a new M10.

Mac

 

[earlthegoat2]

I was watching a Model 64 on GB the other day that sold for $250. Not beat up either.

Save your pennies and buy pre owned. They generally have better triggers anyway.