Does anyone make a decent dehumidifier?

[everydefense]

Without going into a lengthy exchange to try and diagnose the problem, I'm going to make a few assumptions and suggest you get a timer switch (like one of those Intermatic things you plug into the wall and program by sticking the black and red clips into the appropriate slots in the dial) and set it to run the dehumidifier twice a day for 30 minutes at a time. I know the unit has all sorts of controls on it, but they were not designed to work properly when the dehumidifier was operating in a small enclosed space. You'll gamble about $10 and if I'm right your dehumidifier will run for several years.

I tried that idea, but unfortunately the model I have doesn't have a physical clicker switch for on-off... anytime it loses power, the initial state upon regaining power is "off" even if it was on before. So that means you either have to physically press the power button to turn it back on each time the power is cycled, or open up the dehumidifier and create an electrical bypass to that switch with a mechanical switch that could always be left on on... I haven't gotten around to trying option #2, and option #1 makes automating part of it pointless (since I'd still have to press a button)...

Either he is buying el cheapo Chinese junk or used-either way, spend a few bucks more and get one that will give you long life.

If only it were that simple... please, show me a new, currently available model that ISN'T made in China (and has a long life, as you state), and I'll gladly buy it. Rest assured that the new model I did purchase wasn't inexpensive...

I am willing to spend twice as much on one that will last. Every dehumidifier I looked into had parts made in China (some "assembled" in the USA). The only USA made dehumidifiers I could find on-line were huge units for office buildings.

Exactly... exactly!!!

 

[22-rimfire]

With such short lifespans, it makes one wonder if a more robust system could be made by a skilled technician, either from scratch or modifying common parts so that regular maintenance (cleaning coils, replacing freon, etc) could be performed and keep it going for a decade or two... seems absolutely insane that a person would need to spend $150-200 every 2-3 years on these things...

I agree, but that does not seem to be the modern manufacturing approach. It is all about the retail sales price and the unit lasting as long as their warranty. The same applies to central HVAC systems. It was not unheard of for one to last 25 years; now you're lucky to get 10 years out of one.

With the hurricane (Irma) effects (wind and rain here mostly), I have noticed the humidity level slowly rising inside my house. It's now at about 60% RH when it normally sits at about 50-55%. Considered turning my heat on for a bit since it's too chilly for the AC at normal temperature settings. But I hesitate. Money ya know.... I'll let the indoor temp drop another couple of degrees and if outdoor temps stay below normal.

 

[fireman 9731]

I have a vintage Westinghouse dehumidifier in my basement where the safe is. We inherited it from the previous owners when we purchased the house. I would have to guess its from the 70's or 80's. It's drained to a floor drain and the control knob only says more dry or less dry. It just keeps on ticking in the summer and fall. I do notice it on my electric bill though.

Humidex makes a real deal dehumidifier for serious use.

I also have a Golden Rod in the safe.

However, the best solution to most humidity problems is to simply exhaust the humid air to the outside and replace it with conditioned air from somewhere else in the house. EZ-Breath ventilation systems work very simply just by drawing air from the floor, and exhausting it to the outside. Its then replaced by conditioned air from the rest of the house. It can be controlled by temperature or humidity. I was going to buy a system to replace my dehumidifier and deal with a slight radon issue. Then I found the Breeze system for a fraction of the price and I plan on purchasing it in the very near future. Air exchanges are much more efficient than running a dehumidifier.

 

[boom boom]

I have a vintage Westinghouse dehumidifier in my basement where the safe is. We inherited it from the previous owners when we purchased the house. I would have to guess its from the 70's or 80's. It's drained to a floor drain and the control knob only says more dry or less dry. It just keeps on ticking in the summer and fall. I do notice it on my electric bill though.

Humidex makes a real deal dehumidifier for serious use.

I also have a Golden Rod in the safe.

However, the best solution to most humidity problems is to simply exhaust the humid air to the outside and replace it with conditioned air from somewhere else in the house. EZ-Breath ventilation systems work very simply just by drawing air from the floor, and exhausting it to the outside. Its then replaced by conditioned air from the rest of the house. It can be controlled by temperature or humidity. I was going to buy a system to replace my dehumidifier and deal with a slight radon issue. Then I found the Breeze system for a fraction of the price and I plan on purchasing it in the very near future. Air exchanges are much more efficient than running a dehumidifier.

Thanks for the tip. I am now looking at a breeze system for my partial basement and crawlspace. About the same price as a good dehumidifier but uses a lot less juice.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

The pre-1990 units used R12 refrigerant which is why they had few problems. The post 1993 units use R134a which has issues with salts being generated as a by product of the POE oil, R134a refrigerant, and heat, which is probably the reason for your units early failures. If you really want reliable non-refrigerated dehumidification you can check into a Munters unit. I have installed several of these in industrial applications for about $12,000 a pop, but they are relatively trouble free as long as the filter is cleaned on a regular basis.

 

[boom boom]

The pre-1990 units used R12 refrigerant which is why they had few problems. The post 1993 units use R134a which has issues with salts being generated as a by product of the POE oil, R134a refrigerant, and heat, which is probably the reason for your units early failures. If you really want reliable non-refrigerated dehumidification you can check into a Munters unit. I have installed several of these in industrial applications for about $12,000 a pop, but they are relatively trouble free as long as the filter is cleaned on a regular basis.

Or you could buy one $300 humidifier every year when it failed and still it would take 40 years to reach the nominal cost of the Munters unit.