Engine oil use on guns

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tercel89

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I'm going to start using engine oil on my guns . For preserving one for my son for later and for lubrication and for rust prevention .
Engine oil is a lot cheaper . My question is which should I go with :
1. conventional or synthetic?
2. what weight?
3. conventional detergent or a non-detergent?

I just thought I'd see what you guys thought and what you were using . Thanks in advance .
 
Engine oils are for engines. They are Ph balanced for the inevitable acidification that will occur in an internal combustion engine which doesn't necessarily happen in a firearm....
 
Engine oils are for engines. They are Ph balanced for the inevitable acidification that will occur in an internal combustion engine which doesn't necessarily happen in a firearm....

True, but they work very well for firearms, after all they are a lubricating oil, also the price is right even if using any one of the synthetics. Even the Marines have a formula using Mobil 1. I doubt the weight will make any difference whatsoever.
 
Maybe you should have asked, "How many guys use car engine oil to preserve, lube,what ever" on their weapons. That way your counter-parts
would have had the opportunity to join in with their experiences .
"Engine oil is a lot cheaper." That`s the foundation for it`s usage?
Not trying to be a wise guy but I don`t agree with your motion that engine oil is the "proper lube" for weapons. Emergency, sure but not long term. Course you own the guns, so if cheap engine oil is your choice, go for it.
 
cheap engine oil is your choice, go for it.

To classify Mobil 1, Pennzoil PP, Redline, Amsoil, ect., as a "Cheap" oil is more than a little off the wall. I suggest you peruse the afformentioned thread very carefully, as its very imformative regarding "Cheap" oils.
 
I'm going to start to use Hoppes oil for my 350 4 wheel drive. After all I fyou can use engine oil on a firearm, why not use firearm oil in a motor.

See how wrong that looks. and if you do decide to use the engine oil you better get the high milage oil just in case you have more than 75,000 rounds through it.
 
whoa 5 qts of hoppes for a car would be like the price of 50 regular oil changes! i use regular 5w30 oil in my guns sometimes but i usually use Hoppes Elite oil cuz my guns seem to like that the best.
 
I'm going to start to use Hoppes oil for my 350 4 wheel drive. After all I fyou can use engine oil on a firearm, why not use firearm oil in a motor.

See how wrong that looks. and if you do decide to use the engine oil you better get the high milage oil just in case you have more than 75,000 rounds through it.

This is like saying you couldn't get excellent results using auto wax on their stock, see how stupid that sounds. And yet many suggest using Johnsons Paste Floor wax on their stock.

Using a high grade synethic motor oil on a firearm is overkill compared to using Hoppe's gun oil in your vehicle.

Like I suggested check out the thread that was posted in post #2, might give you a little knowledge on the supject.
 
I've been experimenting with Mobil 1, 5w30, simply because that is what I use in my cars and I have it on hand in the garage. Even a thin formulation like 5w30 is thicker than BreakFree CLP that I had been using. Mobil 1 tends to stay in place better than BreakFree CLP and seems to lubricate just as well.

I'm not a chemist, but my feeling is Mobil 1 is good enough as a lube, but if I was really concerned about long term rust prevention I would look for a product designed specifically for that purpose.
 
If the gun is going to be stored for a long period of time,use a 50/50 mix of any ENGINE oil (any weight)and STP oil treatment. Apply with an eye dropper or a syringe. This is for internal works only,wipe down the exterior with an oil cloth(WD-40,Rem-oil,etc.)
 
It'll be very interesting when the temperature drops, or raises to about 90 with high humidity.
 
Maybe if I say it this way, When motor oil is packaged as a firearm lube or rust preventative I might consider it.
This is like saying you couldn't get excellent results using auto wax on their stock, see how stupid that sounds. And yet many suggest using Johnsons Paste Floor wax on their stock.
Wood floor, wood stock.

High temp engine with lots of moving stuff
vs
percision firearm that might not benefit from all that the motor oil has to offer or whats it's lacking.

With as long as motor oil has been package it still isn't sold as a firearm lube. There is a reason why it hasn't been. I don't know it and that's fine with me.
 
i am certainly NOT going to beat you up for using engine oil on your firearms. many of us do, including myself. firearms are not exactly stressful applications, not even ar-15's. if you think about the huge load placed on a high-performance auto engine (not your everyday run of the mill 4 cylinder chevy), the heat generated, the huge torque loads, the thrust put upon cylinder walls and pistons, that is stressful. and for many, many years, conventional motor oil was all there was. then came racing oil, which is regular oil, with an additive package. then, mobil decided to do us all a huge favor, and decided to sell to the general public synthetic oil that was specificly engineered for HARD, HARD use. i have tried both castrol gtx 5w30, and mobil 1 on my guns. either seems to do the trick for me. i have decided on mobil 1 0w40 for my guns, and that is what i am going to stick with at least until this bottle is gone. which will probably be long after i am dead. in any case, the reason i opted for 0w oil is i do hunt, and sometimes it get really cold and nasty. i do not want the firing pin to be sludged up by oil that is to thick when that buck of a lifetime comes up out of that swamp. the reason i went with 0w40, is i also shoot my pistols when it is over 90 outside, and when you shoot semi autos faily quickly in hi temperatures, i want the film of oil to be stable, and not fly off. pick whatever you feel is best. just give proper consideration to temps and type of firearm, and the stress put on those parts. as for storage, for long term storage, i personally subscribe to straight STP. i stored my fathers browning for 20 years after he died with it. it took a while to get all of it off and out of all the nooks and crannies, but there was absoloutly not one spec of rust on this gun, not one. the only thing i ever did to it through all of those years was to look at it once every few years, and make sure it was doing fine. it is hard to beat that kind of sucsess.
 
Engine oil has properties not needed for guns but does not lack anything needed to be used on guns. Higher viscosity oils may slow an action at lower temperatures so a multi-viscosity oil would be better. Any oil will lubricate moving metal parts regardless of what they are assembled into. Any oil,grease or wax that is a barrier to moisture/oxygen will prevent the formation of rust.
 
Anybody ever use BP2380 turbo oil? It's for turbine engines, temps up to 1000 C. It's very light, and very fine, and designed to operate in a wide variety of temperatures.
 
I only use designated lube for firearms , mostly Militec . But if you're going the Engine Oil rout I would use Mobil 1 15,000 or Royal Purple. One court will last a life time.
 
My reserve unit fired 68,000 rds(5.56) in two days, I used clp two maybe three times and fired several thousand without a hitch. CLP is really cheap and doesn't build up like commercial moter oil. If you must grease parts like bolt lugs and rails LSA would work fine as well. When I say clp I mean the real stinky military stuff you can buy in 2.5 gallon white jugs not the crap I picked up once at wal-mart.
 
I use Triflow on my guns. Goes on thin to penetrate and sets up thicker to stay put. I bought a large can at the hardware store for $6.50. Nice handy aerosol tip for easy application. Lubed hundreds of guns, door hinges, etc, etc. Finally ran it dry after 10 years. That's 65 cents a year. Yes, I suppose using the 1/2 quart of motor oil left over after your oil change is technically cheaper, but I can't imagine it's possibly worth the trouble.

It's one thing to be frugal and another to be ridiculously cheap.
 
For preserving one for my son for later and for lubrication and for rust prevention .

Engine oils are lubricants. They are outstanding lubricants, and at $2.50 a quart, a bargin compared with "gun oils".

Engine oils are not rust inhibitors. It takes special additives to slow down the migration of oxygen, and for the life of me, I don't see why an internal combustion engine lubricant would have the stuff.

Boating stores have some excellent rust inhibitors. I purchased spray on cans of CRC Corrosion inhibitor at a marine store.

Still have cans of RIG, though that company went out of business.
 
I liked the one where he said he was going to use Hoppe's gun oil in his 350 engine.

Let's look at the cost of that.

Gun oil usually runs about $2 per ounce. 32 ounces in a quart would mean $64 a quart. 6 quarts of oil is $384. Yikes that is an expensive oil change.

My advice, use gun oil on guns and motor oil in engines. I use Rem-oil on my guns and Mobil 1 in my truck.
 
I liked the one where he said he was going to use Hoppe's gun oil in his 350 engine
.

Missed that.

Ed Harris, in his write up on Ed's Red made the statement that most gun oils are plain, straight mineral oil.

The difference between tea and water is additives. The difference between plain mineral oil and a great lubricant is additives.

The fact that gun oils have been straight mineral oil and no one has had real problems tells you that firearms are not stressed as much as combustion engines.

It also tells you can sell cheap oil, for lots of money, as long as the cans are colorful and have screaming labels.

It is better to use a product that exceeds your service envelope than one that does not meet it.

Running Hoppes in an automobile engine will lead to a $3,000 engine job.
 
Don't think engine oils prevent rust? Go to a junk yard, find an engine, ANY engine even one out of the vehicle and lying on the ground. Remove the crankcase oil pan. Remove a connecting rod cap and a main cap. Look at the highly polished crankshaft journals. How much rust do you see? Assuming it hasn't rained directly into the crankcase (with water standing inside) you will not see any rust because the journals are protected by run of the mill engine oil.
 
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Running Hoppes in an automobile engine will lead to a $3,000 engine job.
Compared to a day shooting at the range at todays ammo prices, That Hoppes oil change looks pretty cheap :)
 
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