Factory vs. Reload for .223

[Picher]

My recent .223 handloads out of my bolt action rifles are scary accurate since buying some new Starline brass. All three are shooting .2" to .4" MOA, using Varget and Sierra 53-55 grain bullets. Note that the first shot on the square was from a clean, cold barrel at 100 yards.

 

[FL-NC]

For factory loads, I would try Black Hills 77 grain OTM (MK 262 in the military) or Hornady 75 grain BTHP. Either round should tighten your group up considerably if you do your part. I have had excellent results with both rounds on deer and larger targets overseas. As for your trigger, Larue is selling the MBT trigger for $87 now.

 

[Nature Boy]

I’ve been working on a load using 90g Berger VLDs and varget for my son to shoot his .223 bolt action in F Class at 600 yards. You can’t buy those commercially loaded, as far as I know

 

[cougar1717]

Everyone who asks, "What's your favorite 223Rem load?" is going to get a lot of different answers, like you see. The good thing is that there are many different ways to achieve great accuracy. Or at least something that is better than 4moa XM193.

The first question is that of expectations: is the goal to get clover leafs OR sub moa and close OR "red dot accuracy" 1.5-2.5 moa and calling it good.

If you are just trying to work your way toward smaller groups, one of the easiest things to do is use some inexpensive, yet reasonable quality factory ammo as a way to check your build.
Some like Black Hills, Fiocchi w/Vmax and those are very good. I like Norma Tac 223 55gr. It's inexpensive and if you cant get one, five shot group to be around 1.5", then you know that you need to take a closer look at your rifle.

If you're going down the moa to sub moa to "I want bugholes" road, handloading is the way to go. Generally, a 1:8 should find something good between 55gr and 68gr, but that is not always true. Sometimes another bullet weight is the cat's meow. The thing is, you don't know until you try and no one on a forum can definitively tell you what combination is going to work in your individual rifle. There are generalities, but there are some things that others rave over that didn't work well for me.

If you're loading for volume, ball powder will go faster than extruded.

Also, as the OP noted, getting clean trigger breaks is night and day in terms of confidence.

 

[badkarmamib]

Everyone who asks, "What's your favorite 223Rem load?" is going to get a lot of different answers, like you see.

Yep! I just wanted to see if 90% would agree that X bullet doesn't work as well as the manufacturer claims, or Y powder gives consistent groups with most bullet weights. My main concerns are availability, easy metering, and relatively lower cost components, with a goal of the 1MOA that my Faxon barrel is guaranteed to produce. Handloading is the obvious answer, and my starting point, but, until now, I have loaded for volume in pistol, and deer-hunting accuracy in rifle. I don't have the time, money, or patience to try every possible combination, so if handloading cannot produce at least acceptable groups, I wanted to have some good suggestions for factory loads to try. So, I came for advice to help avoid any potential pitfalls, and the members have delivered in spades. Thanks to all!

 

[Bbear]

I purchased re-manufactured rounds several years back. In my Daniel Defense I get .75" groups with those. They are a 'basic' FMJ bullet with unknown powder. I took the brass, segregated by brand and worked up some loads for a Tikka T3 in 223 using Nosler 2nd's 64 BSB. I went through 7 or 8 powders before finding a load that gave me a .5" (or better on a good day) using Benchmark. Alas, all of my reloading records are in the middle of a clean-up from a garage fire. It will be a while before I can get to them.