Favored Synthetic Gun Oil?

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Just like a car, there are 2 different types of lubricants that I use. Oil and Grease. For Metal-On-Metal, I use grease. 1 Tube of Walmart Super-Tech Moly-Lithium Grease costs $4.97. It's enough to last an entire lifetime. No matter how many guns you have. It uses Molybdenum Disulfide. (Look it up. Molybdenum Disulfide is recommend by most manufacturers as a lubricant. Even gun manufacturers. It's in a lot of different gun oils). I use the grease on slides, outside of barrels like for semi-auto pistols. AR Bolts and carrier groups. Any place where two metals touch each other.

Then there's the oil. I use that on moving parts that aren't metal on metal. Such as trigger groups, springs, (Except AR Buffer springs. I use the grease there). I also use the oil on latches, safeties, hammers, etc... I use whatever oil is convenient. For hard to reach areas, I use CLP or Rem-Oil which is spray on. For trigger assemblies and areas I can touch, I use a drenched q-tip and a motor oil.

But the majority of a gun is metal-on-metal. For that, I use the Moly-lithium grease with Molybdenum Disulfide in it. Now; considering that most people clean their weapons after returning from the range, or at the most, after 500 rounds, just about any lubricant will work. If you shoot often, it doesn't matter what you use. You'll be most likely stripping it, cleaning it, and relubing it often anyway. For guns that sit in safes a long time, the grease is the best. It never runs, fights corrosion, and will still lubricate a year from now when you want to use the gun. $4.97 a walmart, and I promise you that you'll NEVER need to buy another tube as long as you live. Even if you use some of it on your car or other applications. Anyone who is spending the $7, $10, $15, $20 for gun lubricant is simply wasting their money. Of course, they'll rationalize it and say that it's such a little amount to pay for lube, when you paid hundreds for the weapon. Whatever. That's why there's debates. Even if they're wrong, they can rationalize it. Most gun lubes are not "Specially Formulated". Most are common lubricants that are repackaged and the price is jacked up. FYI. Hoppe is contracted out to Castrol Oil for production. There's no "Special" gun lube out there. Matter of fact, today, my wife took a can of my rem-oil to work with her, so you could lube a squeaky chair and some cabinet hinges.
 
I use synthetic ATF, the walmart brand listed above. I've also got Slip 2000 EWL and Breakfree CLP. To be honest, I can't tell any difference in performance between the Slip and ATF, but I don't run things hard and I clean them before they are real dirty. I like ATF as it protects from corrosion better than motor oil and seems to lubricate as well. I figure between Slip and ATF, everything I need to oil is covered.
 
jcwit I meant I'd pay $200 per gallon for fuel (like the lube costs) if I only had to use a tiny bottle every couple of years (like the lube).
 
Breakfree CLP and FP-10. I like the FP-10 and have a quart, which will last me through the next three zombie invasions and Democrat administrations. As a rule (from my Garand usage), if it rolls, oil it. If it slides, grease it. Any moly grease for most of us here.
YMMV
 
The cost vs benefit thing isn't overstated. At $2 an ounce, typical gun oils cost $32 a quart. Are they really $32 a quart oil? Nobody even tries to sell motor oil that high, and a car engine takes on a LOT tougher job than a gun. It tries to contain the explosion, and suffers from a lot of internal venting, too. Plus, it "fires" thousands of rounds a minute, not a year.

Since much of what gets applied to a gun is blown off in a few mags, oil is nice, but synthetic surface treatments go much further. Milspec dry lube, nitro carburizing, tennifer, and the others put the "lube" into the surface of metal where it won't come off. The ion spray applications have to be literally machined to remove it, they are that integrated and tough.

After that, all I add is some Dexron, it's over 55% detergent with additional high pressure additives, and it's NOT $32 a quart. Build it right, you don't need Mobil One. In fact, you won't need much at all, just something to keep powder residue from sticking.
 
Not a synthetic but I'm very happy with Aeroshell Fluid 18. It is designed as a gun oil and runs about $30 a gallon. It's pretty thin but has lots of EP additives even after it dries off.

I get mine at skygeek.com

And I totally have to disagree that internal combustion engines have a tougher life than firearms. Show me a firearm that's run at a nearly constant temp and uses an oil pump to move pressurized lubricant around and I might agree that motor oil is suitable.

Look at it this way, nobody really expect their rifle to last 100,000 rounds w/o needing major components replaced. At idle, a internal combustion engine running at 600rpm would need a overhaul after 2.7 hours, if it were subjected to the same wear conditions as our guns are.

BSW
 
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I use LPS2 and Breakfree. I swear they are the same. I might give Mobil 1 a try. I use it in my motorcycles because of the way it stands up to the Texas heat. chris3
 
jcwit said:
What pray tell do you think they make synthetic oil out of, water? possibably corn silk? refined coal dust? Of course it starts out as petroleum products from the oil fields. There are a few mfg. making it from plant products tho.

According to Mobil's website, you're incorrect.

From http://www.mobil.com/australia-english/lcw/audiences/synthetic_v_mineral.asp

We know that basestock composition has a significant effect on the overall performance of motor oil. There are four different types of base stock used in the motor oil market today.
Group 1 - Conventional - Mineral oil derived from crude oil
Group 2 - Hydroprocessed - Highly refined mineral oil
Group 3 – Severe hydroprocessed - Ultra refined mineral oil
Group 4 – Full synthetics (chemically derived) - Chemically built Polyalphaolefins (PAO).

As it infers Groups 1 – 3 basestocks are derived from crude oil pumped from the ground whereas Group 4 basestocks are chemically derived, most often from ethylene gas, and contain none of the contaminants present in mineral oils. Just as distilled water is pure water derived from gas so Group 4 basestocks are pure oils derived from gas.
 
Look at it this way, nobody really expect their rifle to last 100,000 rounds w/o needing major components replaced. At idle, a internal combustion engine running at 600rpm would need a overhaul after 2.7 hours, if it were subjected to the same wear conditions as our guns are.

so would one be more ill advised running rem-oil in their crankcase, or mobil 1 in their AR?
 
Well, I don't really like Rem-oil, but a good gun oil would be creepy enough to leak out around the seals of of the engine and the EP additives would probably choke the catalytic converter.

The AR would run but rust protection would be minimal and Mobile one has way less EP additives than a good gun oil, so the AR would wear faster.

Is goose grease better lube than nothing? Sure. Is it optimal? No. And neither is IC engine oil. It's like running turbine engine oil in your car. Gas turbines have higher temps than IC engines so turbine oil must be better, right?

BSW
 
According to Mobil's website, you're incorrect.

Nope, not quite. POA's AKA Polyalphaolefins are made from refinery gasses ie; ethylene which is a product of petroleum.

Here are the synthetic oil "groups" as defined by the industry.
Group III, severely hydroprocessed distillate.
Group III+ subgroup is Shell XHVI base oils made from isomerized wax or "slack wax"
Group IV, Polyalphaolefin (PAO) made from refinery gasses like ethylene
Group V, esters made by treating alcohols with acids

ExxonMobil also makes Alkylated Napthelene which is Group III to me, but they claim a new Group VI for it.

Esters are the only "non petroleum" synthetics and cost a lot more. The original Castrol R was castor oil based and full of natural esters.

There you go!
 
Oil- militec-1, this stuff is outstanding.. Once it's bonded to the metal after a shoot in period or you can actually bake it on, easiest guns to clean, ever. Nothing sticks.
Grease- tetra gun grease or the glock copper slide stuff
Also use acf-50 as a corrosion inhibitor after I've cleaned and greased/lubed all respective parts.
 
Hoppe's 9 for solvent, FP-10 for overall wipe down, bore, and all metal parts, and I'll use Tetra gun grease on specific guns and areas. Sometimes JB bore paste for bad funk.

My guns get stored oily, and seep oil out the joints a bit when used.
 
How about for use on the outside of guns which stand in gun safes for months, or a year between trips?
Does it matter what gun oil is used on the metal, as long as very little touches the old wood?

Two of these are collector Enfields, and the wood is dry, with nothing done (yet) to preserve it.
I've never taken the trigger groups or other components out, and don't like forcing stiff barrel bands etc back together.
 
For your enfields in the safe, I would go ahead and oil the stock. I use Mobil 1, I dont have a degree in chemical engineering, but the results for me show it to work in my environment.

I have and enfield No1MkIII that i keep, mostly in the safe due to the cost of the ammo. I oil the whole thing, wood and all. i leave the metal with a good coating and rub a little into the stock. If your wood is dry, I would go ahead and oil it heavily. You will need to do this the next several times you clean / oil them. I do not let my guns sit for a year between cleaning. I will clean them all regardless of use 2-3 times per year.

If I get out a gun I have oiled more for storage than maintenance, I will field strip and wipe it down to get the excess oil off before using it.
 
I also use Militec oil. I have a bottle in my shooting box. Militec grease is the best. The LPS I use is a milspec rust preventative and lube that dries. I have used it as my wipedown oil and bore protectant for many years. I have never had a rust problem ever with it...chris3
 
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