Federal small pistol primers.

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SunnySlopes

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I'm curious concerning variations in diameter of different manufacturer's primers. I picked up some Federal primers and, my last range trip, had some reloads that did not ignite. Acted like light primer strikes.

Once fired brass. Never had that problem before. The only difference was primer brand.

Are Federal primers maybe larger in diameter and did not seat? The press is a Dillon Square Deal dedicated to small primer calibers.
 
99% of primers failing to ignite is the primer not being seated to the bottom of the primer pocket.

Federals are the easiest to ignite, and they are easy to seat.

I would make sure they are getting seated firmly against the bottom of the primer pocket
 
I use to have that problem with CCI's in my Charter Arms 38spl. After hand priming, I do and extra push with the primer on my hand press before loading in gunpowder. I haven't had an issue since.
 
99% of primers failing to ignite is the primer not being seated to the bottom of the primer pocket.

Federals are the easiest to ignite, and they are easy to seat.

I would make sure they are getting seated firmly against the bottom of the primer pocket
I have CCI, Federal and Remington. In your experience, are any of them any more difficult to seat than other popular brands?
 
Because of supply issues I've been shooting what I can get. Been through about 2k fed spp this year no issues. The 1300 rem spp have had around 9 ftf and 4 that didn't go after a second hit.
 
You shouldn't notice any difference between brands of primers seating on the Dillon Square Deal B press. I use one and have loaded thousands of each of the brands listed, but I do stand when I load to get full leverage, especially on the primer seat 'press' of the handle.
 
I love my Dillon SDB but yes, sometimes the primers don't fully seat. Brand doesn't matter. Never have figured out why.
I alway check (pick up two at a time and look from the side) for high primers and any I find I use my Lee hand press to complete.
 
It is very common to find differences between primer brands if your seating tool isn't too brutish to notice. I have a batch of .375H&H brass that is scrap-loose on Win LRP, and had been perfectly snug on S&B LRP for several cycles.

Adapt and learn.
 
I love my Dillon SDB but yes, sometimes the primers don't fully seat. Brand doesn't matter. Never have figured out why.

Low leverage for one thing. I had little trouble with SDB 9mm but could not be assured of good seating in .45 ACP.
I once ran a rifle primer pocket uniformer into some .45 ACP cases. The SDB would then seat primers easily and deeply, which showed me that the press had plenty of travel, just not much oomph.

So now I load small primers in 9mm and .38 on 550B and large in .45 on S1050.

I have been getting some wonky Federal primers in 9mm, some taking a nudge with a hand primer. I don't know if it is the primers or the mixed brass. None so far out as to not be usable for practice.
 
I have CCI, Federal and Remington. In your experience, are any of them any more difficult to seat than other popular brands?

I use Fed, CCI, Rem, Win, and Fiocchi. The only difference I have noticed with these is hardness.
Fed is the softest, then Fiocchi, Win, Rem, and finally CCI. Even though Fiocchi is a metric primer and supposed to be a tad larger in dia, I never noticed a difference on my LNL-AP or my Lee Auto Prime ll when using them.
Mostly because they are on the soft side.
What I have noticed is that the CCIs are definitely the hardest and they de-prime the hardest also.
CCIs would be the hardest to set off with a weak hammer spring too. Fed would be the easiest.
As far as seating, unless you were using Tula, or Wolf, which are the hardest primers on the market, you probably won't be able to tell the difference between any of them.
 
I have progressives from Dillon, Hornady and RCBS. Every stoppage I've ever had has been primer related. Hand priming cured that.
 
If Federal primers don't seat right definitely check your press. Those are about the easiest to seat of any primers.
 
I very seldom use Fed primers due to their packaging. I have noticed if my Rem primers are loose, Fed fit tighter. Which allow me to get a few more firings before the brass is recycled.
 
I use Fed, CCI, Rem, Win, and Fiocchi. The only difference I have noticed with these is hardness.
Fed is the softest, then Fiocchi, Win, Rem, and finally CCI. Even though Fiocchi is a metric primer and supposed to be a tad larger in dia, I never noticed a difference on my LNL-AP or my Lee Auto Prime ll when using them.
What I have noticed is that the CCIs are definitely the hardest and they de-prime the hardest also.
CCIs would be the hardest to set off with a weak hammer spring too. Fed would be the easiest.
As far as seating, unless you were using Tula, or Wolf, which are the hardest primers on the market, you probably won't be able to tell the difference between any of them.
Ditto, this advice! This has been my experience as well. I use Federal primers in any relatively light striking vintage firearms and CCI is all the rest. But, with the limited supply on the market I'll use what I can get. ;)
 
Likely not your problem, but: Make sure you aren’t using any of those aftermarket plastic tabs you can put on the sdb brass pins (particularly at station 2) to make them easier to put in and out. They can slightly alter the pin position ever so slightly affecting case position and priming.
 
I have used 50k Federal SPP in the last couple of years and the only issue I've had with them was when they weren't seated completely...which is a press/user issue. I have several friends who load on Dillon presses and primer seating depth isn't an uncommon issue.

Using primer tube loading tools, I have noticed that CCI SPP feed the most smoothly, Federal SPP seem a bit wider, and Winchester SPP seem the largest. I no longer use Winchester SPP and have never used Remington primers. Ginex (from Bosnia) feed as well as CCI and are much softer.

I highly recommend priming off press for consistent primer seating
 
Are Federal primers maybe larger in diameter and did not seat?
One of the uses of the caliper depth rod is to measure depth. I shoot for 3-5 thou below flush, and it’s a QC check as well. As others have said, typically the perceived light strike is a too proud primer. You mentioned Federal, in fact the revolver crowd that tune and lighten the trigger use Federal since they’re so soft.
 
A hint; any time you are having priming trouble try a ram prime with the suspect primers and cases. I have ram prime. By far the most positive, consistent and repeatable priming system is my ram prime. When I felt I had a questionable lot of primers or priming problems with a specific brass, I'd get out the ram prime. If the ram prime seats successfully, I can then look at the problematic method, press, priming tool, etc., to remedy the situation (fix it).

I gave up "below flush" seating measurements many years ago and just seat primers, securely, to the bottom of the pocket. I cannot remember my last FTF from improper primer seating...
 
Don't forget to check the firearm also. I was having problems with primers on my 550 and my Taurus PT99. Light primer strikes, with a second time setting them off. Switched over to my SDB and was having the same problem. Turns out, that after 10k rounds some guns need the firing pin, springs, and firing pin channel cleaned. Whoops
Screenshot_20220706-142531_Gallery.jpg
 
Don't forget to check the firearm also. I was having problems with primers on my 550 and my Taurus PT99. Light primer strikes, with a second time setting them off. Switched over to my SDB and was having the same problem. Turns out, that after 10k rounds some guns need the firing pin, springs, and firing pin channel cleaned. Whoops
View attachment 1088487
My glock 17 never had an ignition issue, but when I finally disassembled the slide it was gross. In my defense it was my first firearm.
 
I've found that CCI are hardest and S&B are the softest. Wolf are pretty hard as well. At this point, I won't turn my nose up at any sm pistol primers.
 
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