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tcoz
Member
IMO, the slotted Sheridan gauge is the most useful case gauge you can buy and the slotted version is definitely worth the extra cost over the non-slotted version. Like the JP, they’re made to minimum SAAMI spec so if your finished cartridge passes the gauge it’s guaranteed to chamber in your gun. Unlike any other gauge though, the slot allows you to see exactly where the problem is if the round doesn’t pass.
Blue68f100
Member
Some what. Since hardly any mfg follows the spec when it comes to free bore. That's a crap shoot unless you have a barrel made. And like always depends on how many barrels the reamer had cut before it got to yours. But min spec is min, so if it fits it fits unless you have a super tight neck. It's also a good way to over work the brass too. Doing more sizing than is required, shortens brass life.
Varminterror
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I'm with @Walkalong on the neck tension test - personally, I'm surprised in a 223rem, factory chamber, you had enough neck tension to hold the bullet from falling into the case at all if they weren't resized. Coming back to this thread this morning, I grabbed a 77 SMK and pulled a few cases from 4 bins of fired brass for different factory chambered 223 brass, none of them hold a bullet - they just drop straight through. Only brass fired from my custom chambered, tight neck (not surprising) rifle held the bullet, and it allowed me to "seat" the bullet with finger pressure, and WOULD drop through if I kept pushing...
Maybe if you have your seater set up to crimp, you're getting enough grip to hold the bullet after the fact, but unless you're running a compressed load, I would have expected the bullets to drop into the case as soon as you placed them on the case under the seater...
Maybe if you have your seater set up to crimp, you're getting enough grip to hold the bullet after the fact, but unless you're running a compressed load, I would have expected the bullets to drop into the case as soon as you placed them on the case under the seater...
Yep.
I'll leave it to others to discuss case gauges and the like and instead just mention that it is my belief that reloading procedures should be reduced to a checklist and a copy of the checklist associated with every batch of cases and checked off only as each step is completed. This is particularly crucial in situations where the reloading operation may be interrupted.
Had the OP had a checklist and been following it, then he would know whether he had sized his brass or not because he would not have checked off the sizing step until it had been completed.
Of course, it goes without saying that it is bad idea to reload (drive, handle explosives, medications, etc.) when distracted, drinking or taking mind-altering drugs.
Had the OP had a checklist and been following it, then he would know whether he had sized his brass or not because he would not have checked off the sizing step until it had been completed.
Of course, it goes without saying that it is bad idea to reload (drive, handle explosives, medications, etc.) when distracted, drinking or taking mind-altering drugs.
Agreed.
Anytime rifle brass goes in a box a note goes with it.
Such as:
"Tumbled, checked internally"
"Tumbled, checked internally, sized"
"Sized, trimmed, deburred, chamfered" (I know that if I sized it, it was checked internally)
"Sized, trimmed, deburred, chamfered, primed with Win small rifle primer"
Pistol brass is done the same way, but I don't trim auto brass.
If I let it lie around 20 years, when I get it out I will have that note. Of course, if it has been that long, I'll double check those things listed.
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