Garand Owners: What should accessories should a new owner get?

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Doc7

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Hello all,

Based on the timelines I am seeing on the message boards at The CMP forums (for which I have been awaiting a board user activation email for a week!) I may get my Garand which was mail-ordered last week within the next 3-4 weeks!

I am trying to figure out what I need or probably should have.

- Ammo (Will order from CMP as soon as I get my E-Store activation)

- Gas Cylinder Wrench for my initial cleaning breakdown

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-wrench.html


- Clips - Should I also get 2-rounders for an Appleseed? or is loading the 8 with 2 rounds the recommended method? I have seen video tutorials online for some sort of twisting action that holds 2 rounds in before they get inserted into the rifle. I hope this works well under the stress of an Appleseed timed shoot.

http://www.brownells.com/magazines/rifle-magazines/magazines/m1-garand-ammo-clips-prod42370.aspx or anywhere else

- A plan for breakdown and cleaning - Do I need any solvents etc? My Otis Pull Through cleaning kit ok?

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-tutorials/


OPTIONAL: - A ported or adjustable gas plug for modern ammo (nice-to-have, not on my need list)

Am I missing anything that I will want to have available? I have a GI Cotton Web sling from Appleseed already.
 
The web slings are fine, but I like the 1907 sling (leather or biothane, by Turner) better. You can find installation instructions at the CMP.

You should pick up the buttstock cleaning kit, with the combination tool. You can use the tool to disassemble the bolt, or to remove the gas cylinder lock screw.
 
Doc7 said:
I am trying to figure out what I need or probably should have.

- Ammo (Will order from CMP as soon as I get my E-Store activation)
Click to expand...

The CMP is no longer always the low-cost supplier for .30-'06: Privi Partisan makes a M1-specific loading which can sometimes be found for the same or a little less than the older mil-spec surplus rounds the CMP sells. Hmm, brand new production from a known-good manufacturer, vs. 20+ y.o. surplus, neither on clips? The CMP was great back when they were selling ammo for less than the scalpers' prices, but once they caught on to how much they were losing [and no criticism for this: their mandate is to provide instruction for future generations, so they need to get as much as they reasonably can...]

- Gas Cylinder Wrench for my initial cleaning breakdown
Click to expand...

Not absolutely necessary. The cylinder nut shouldn't be cranked down that tight anyway. You might want to wait & see before worrying about that part.

- Clips - Should I also get 2-rounders for an Appleseed? or is loading the 8 with 2 rounds the recommended method? I have seen video tutorials online for some sort of twisting action that holds 2 rounds in before they get inserted into the rifle. I hope this works well under the stress of an Appleseed timed shoot.
Click to expand...

Save yourself some grief & use a 22lr for Appleseed. And yes, to fire a 10-shot string, you can load 2rds loose in a clip [since you usually get to lock & load prior to the start being called for the rapid fire string.]

- A plan for breakdown and cleaning - Do I need any solvents etc? My Otis Pull Through cleaning kit ok?
Click to expand...

Yes, sure. Usual solvents. You'll need a good grease to lube key points on the Garand.

Am I missing anything that I will want to have available? I have a GI Cotton Web sling from Appleseed already.
Click to expand...

A decent shooting mat is nice.
 
Ah yes I did see something about a tool that cleaned lugs or the chamber or something? Not quite sure about that, is that the combo tool mentioned above?
 
Surculus said:
Save yourself some grief & use a 22lr for Appleseed. And yes, to fire a 10-shot string, you can load 2rds loose in a clip [since you usually get to lock & load prior to the start being called for the rapid fire string.]
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip...I already made Rifleman with a tech-sighted Marlin 60 22LR and am really interested in doing it with a Garand as well.
 
If you are setting it up for Appleseed, go with the web sling. The leather is a mystery to them, and it digs into you until it is broken in.

Depending on the Appleseed event organizer, you can use workarounds. The load 2 in a clip does not work well for me in a speed reload. I was faster single-feeding the last 2. The instructor said I could just load a 2nd full enbloc and stop at 2, but under pressure I lost count at least once.

Then I cheated (kinda.) I seated bullets in spent brass and drilled holes in the sides of the case making obvious dummy rounds. I did 6, and loaded them in an enbloc with 2 live rounds. Bang, Bang, click. The instructor let me use them, so all is good. Paint the bullet tips and case head green so you don't load upside down.
 
Don't need a cylinder wrench, I bought one and yet to use it. I did buy a gas plug from Garand gear. I don't shot regular '06 ammo through my Garands, but it does slow the action down some to were the gun doesn't beat itself to death.
 
A sharp pointy thing (bayonet). Amazing how nice it feels with the bayonet attached.
 
Doc7 said:
Ah yes I did see something about a tool that cleaned lugs or the chamber or something? Not quite sure about that, is that the combo tool mentioned above?
Click to expand...

Some combo tools come with a chamber brush [no lugs to clean a la' an AR: the Garands lugs are out in the open, not part of the barrel extension, which a Garand doesn't even have!], but later designs have a bolt disassembly tool instead. I prefer a ratcheting chamber brush to the combo tool mounted one anyway.

Now that you've clarified your desire to shoot an Appleseed w/ the M1, I understand better where you're coming from. Remember that without a clip, the Garand is just a clumsy single-shot, so always have 2 spares [remember, 2 is 1 and one is none! ;)] in addition to your loaded clips.

You can take 2 loose rounds and an empty clip, slip the rounds into the clip as if you were refilling it, then splay the rounds so that the fat part of the cases will push against the clip & hold the rounds somewhat in place. Now you can set that clip down [gingerly!] and pick it up & load it by dropping it into the open action:it will stop part way in, resting on the splayed rounds; with a little push they'll drop into correct position, continue pushing until the clip latches in, and pull your thumb out of the way of the bolt! There, you've just loaded two rounds. If you have the luxury of loading before the call to start firing, you can lock the action open, drop the mt clip in, put one bullet on one side of the lifter, lift the clip & slide another bullet under the clip on the other side, push the clip down until it latches & lift your thumb out of the way as the action closes.

Kinda makes you wish the Army had gone with John Garand's earlier design for the M1, with interchangeable box magazines, doesn't it? :rolleyes:
 
When I shot Service Rifle with a Garand, I liked using the two round clips for the rapid fire stages. But, you can certainly load two rounds using an 8 round clip.

Also, I liked using a SLED for slow fire but you have to remember to remove it before going to a stage that uses clips.

If you gas plug has the crossed slots in the end, a quarter inch drive socket wrench will work quite well. As said, you do not have to hog down on the plug.

I only shoot Garand safe ammunition so I do not have an adjustable gas plug. If you are thinking of shooting modern hunting ammunition, you will want an adjustable gas plug.

Other suggestions already posted are good.
 
That gas cylinder wrench is fine. I have that one and it fits. Be aware that some (I had a blue one from Fulton) do not fit ALL gas cylinders; my blue one fit my WWII Springfield service grade, but did NOT fit my HRA service grade special). I learned at an M1 Clinic (which is a GREAT thing to go to, by the way, and probably good to take BEFORE the Appleseed, to get more familiar with the M1) how to use an old rag and an adjustable wrench to do loosen and tighten the gas cylinder without marring the finish or loosening the barrel splines. I do have a gas plug wrench, which is very handy - haven't seen that mentioned yet.

Everything else is good. I use the red Supertech grease from Wal-Mart for lube. I like the web sling; I might get leather one day. I have one 2-round clip; if I forget it for a match, I put two rounds in an 8-rounder as has been described. Get a chamber flag - you probably already have one from Appleseed. I have the combo tool, but I rarely use it for anything. Sure, the Otis is fine for cleaning. Bore-snake works well also. Chemicals of your choice.

One more thing: it's nice to get some rubber or plastic tubing (of the right size) and cut a couple of short 1" or so pieces, and put one on the end of the muzzle (to protect the crown) and another on the op rod handle (to protect everything else in the vicinity). You can buy these plastic things ready-made, but no need to be fancy. If you don't do this, and rifles are closely spaced in your safe, the op rod handle can gouge other stocks or actions. A little padding is good there.
 
grease

may or may not need gas cylinder lock wrench... none of my CMP guns have been tight.

gas plug tool/wrench comes in handy

bolt disassembly tool is nice, but not really necessary. a large nail pounded into a bench or wall helps reassembly.
 
Get a new op rod spring. You never know how worn the old one is, even if it has been gauged or tested. What if it was worn but still serviceable? With a new spring you know you are starting on square one.
 
Lots of good suggestions.

For lube, I also like the red Supertech automotive grease from Wal-Mart. Its rated for high temp, and it is super cheap. I use it on the slide rails of all my semi auto handguns, as well as parts on my M-1 carbine.

Here's a nice guide for what to grease and oil on an M1:

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease

Most tend to overdo it. I apply a very thin film with a small artist's paint brush.


Also, most of the significant components in the M1 are marked with a "drawing number". You can locate and research all the components in your rifle to find out how close to original it may be:

http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/Parts.aspx?action=home
 
You need the tool to take down your bolt (eventually).

In your excitement (and believe me we are excited for you, too!) resist the temptation to break down the gas system for cleaning every time you clean up after shooting. It is unneeded. I know it will be hard to resist, but it is gentler on the parts concerned.

It sounds like you have your bases covered except that the next accessory you will need will be Garand No. 2 for your stable. They get lonely by themselves.
 
I recommend the ratcheting chamber brush. You do need to clean the chamber after shooting.

I use the gas cylinder wrench. If your gas cylinder lock screw ever carburizes up , you will appreciate the wrench. I recommend using anti-seize on the threads of the gas cylinder lock screw. You can get anti-seize at an auto store.

I do not recommend removing the gas cylinder from the barrel. Take the gas cylinder lock screw off, leave the gas cylinder lock on, unless it is real dirty, but don’t knock the gas cylinder off the barrel. You want it tight in place. I peened the splines on the barrel and drove the gas cylinder down with a wooden block. I do not want the gas cylinder wobbling on the end of the barrel. I have one match M1 where I also epoxy glued the gas cylinder to the end of the barrel. I have no idea if the glue is holding, but I do remember the loosey goosey group I got with that rifle at 500 yards, because the gas cylinder was loose on those splines.

Get a 1/4" artist brush and use that to paint grease on the rifle parts.
 
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Useful stuff for maintaining M1 Garands:

Nylon covered/carbon fiber cleaning rod with muzzle protector or Otis Pull-through Cleaning Kit

Chamber brush, bore brush, .30 cal cleaning jag

Lubriplate, tetra- or other gun grease

Gas plug wrench

Gas Lock wrench

Bolt disassembly tool

punches for various pins

lots of Q-tips and .30 cal patches

Nylon-tipped hammer

solvents (I like Hoppe's #9, CLP)

Harry
 
All good suggestions, so I will be a little less orthodox.

-An extra clip latch is always good to have,

-An extra gas cylinder

-An extra firing pin

-Op rod catch pivot pin. I lost one once while disassembling my rifle

-Op rod catch

Those are the parts I keep around because I have had or seen problems with them on the rifle. I keep others around too, but I view those as nice things to have on hand.

Other things to consider-

-A gas cylinder gauge. USGI or similar.

-A muzzle and throat erosion gauge. I take mine to gun shows with me to check potential rifles for purchase.

-Also, save all your HXP brass. It is good for reloading and you will probably want to start that after the Greek is gone.

-A technical service manual. My favorite is the "TM 9-1005-222-35 Department of the Army Technical Manual DS, GS and Depot Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tool Lists Rifle, Caliber .30 M1, M1C (Sniper's) and M1D (Snipers)" Mine is dated 1966 and cost me $10 about 4-years-ago. It has a wealth of knowledge and includes a trouble shooting and general maintenance section.

Remember: You are dealing with a rifle that hasn't been mass produced since 1957 and while well known, might not have smiths readily available. It is good to be able to trouble shoot them.
 
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Mobile 1 synthetic red grease. adjustable gas plug if you are hand loading for your rifle and a single shot en bloc clip come in handy. I don't care for web slings, I ended up using a 1 1/4" montana leather sling on my Garand.
Oh, and real US military contract en bloc clips certainly may save you some grief. I had many issues trying to use the en bloc clips from the Greek ball ammo I bought.
 
minutemen1776 said:
Get an Orion stainless op rod spring.
Click to expand...

Why? The op rod spring is greased & generally protected from exposure, and stainless steels don't make the best springs. Why wouldn't you want a superior material like chrome-silicon steel used for the op-rod spring?

Stainless sounds like it will be lower maintenance, but if the spring sacks faster because of being made from the wrong material, it's a false economy.
 
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