shiftyer1
Member
Can anyone tell me why this pistol ejects each spent casing with a perfect trajectory to land right on the top of my head almost everytime?
gen 2 glock 17
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Dan-O
Member
Quit shooting it sideways.....aka, gangsta style.
VoodooMountain
Member
Check for a weak recoil spring. If that isn't the issue install the new style ejector. The new ejector fixed my ten 3.
shiftyer1
Member
I bought it used but judging by appearance i'd say barely broke in. I have little experience with glocks but I do own a 36 and don't have this problem.
I'm not saying the gun gets away from me from recoil.....it ejects them straight up in the air in a perfect arc to land on me. lol
Dan-O I was under the impression that glocks were supposed to be fired sideways because it improves accuracy by distributing the recoil side to side instead of up and down. It also decreases the wear to your barrel on the top and bottom because the slide is now moving on the sides of the barrel.
I'm not saying the gun gets away from me from recoil.....it ejects them straight up in the air in a perfect arc to land on me. lol
Dan-O I was under the impression that glocks were supposed to be fired sideways because it improves accuracy by distributing the recoil side to side instead of up and down. It also decreases the wear to your barrel on the top and bottom because the slide is now moving on the sides of the barrel.
This is fairly rare in a Gen2 and usually more common in late Gen3 and Gen4 models. It is also usually limited to 9mm models (G17/G19)
The empty casing is often left laying on top of the raising round in the magazine, to be struck by the returning slide, thrown into the front of the ejection port, and bounced straight back toward your face.
There is a fairly easy test for this.
1. Insert a loaded magazine and chamber a round
2. Remove the magazine
3. Fire the gun
4. If the casing drops through the frame and falls out the magazine well, the extractor isn't controlling it
While there are various "cures", the basic reason is that the extractor doesn't have a stable purchase on the case rim after it pulls the case from the chamber.shiftyer1 said:
The empty casing is often left laying on top of the raising round in the magazine, to be struck by the returning slide, thrown into the front of the ejection port, and bounced straight back toward your face.
There is a fairly easy test for this.
1. Insert a loaded magazine and chamber a round
2. Remove the magazine
3. Fire the gun
4. If the casing drops through the frame and falls out the magazine well, the extractor isn't controlling it
Gen 1 and 2 Glock 17's and 19's used a 19 lb non-captive recoil spring. Light loads don't necessarily give the slide enough speed to have the ejector hit the case hard enough to send it out the right side as it uses the extractor as a pivot point. First thing I'd try is to change ammo, a heavier load will likely work properly, esp if you have the original non captive spring.
If you have the non captive spring, updating it to the current lighter 17 lb captive spring will also likely fix the problem. I have a Gen 2 Glock 19 that the factory replaced the non captive spring with a new captive spring during a factory rep day at the local Gun store.
For ammo loaded to a more stout level try some of the Winchester NATO or Fiocci.
If you have the non captive spring, updating it to the current lighter 17 lb captive spring will also likely fix the problem. I have a Gen 2 Glock 19 that the factory replaced the non captive spring with a new captive spring during a factory rep day at the local Gun store.
For ammo loaded to a more stout level try some of the Winchester NATO or Fiocci.
As for solutions, I always believe in trying the easiest first.
The first thing to do is change ammo. Go with at least a 124gr bullet and avoid underloaded ammo like Winchester White Box
The first thing to do is change ammo. Go with at least a 124gr bullet and avoid underloaded ammo like Winchester White Box
Dan-O
Member
True dat, true dat. Surprised no one has said to quit limp wristing it yet.
In all seriousness though, I'd probably start with a new recoil spring/rod. I haven't shot anything other than my reloads in over 10 years so I don't know much about what factory fodder sucks less.
In all seriousness though, I'd probably start with a new recoil spring/rod. I haven't shot anything other than my reloads in over 10 years so I don't know much about what factory fodder sucks less.
I'm quite pleased to see that this made up solution to all-things-Glock hasn't made up most of this thread.
For what it's worth, a firmer grip only makes the situation worst...as will a newer/stronger recoil spring.
Going the "factory route", they'd first replace the extractor and then the ejector. Combined with shooting more powerful ammo, these fixes might be enough to cure the issue
The after-market route is an extractor from Apex Tactical (yes, the M&P/Revolver people)
Optimally, you'd combine the Apex extractor with lowering the side of the ejection port
rodinal220
Member
I would upgrade the following if they haven't been already:
1:Firing Pin
2:Extractor(Non-LCI/90 Degree Extraction Port)
3:Firing pin safety and spring
4:Spring loaded bearing(Non-LCI/90 Degree Extraction Port)
5:Trigger bar(trigger assembly)
This is part of the 6 part upgrade(recall) that Glock implemented in the early 1990s.
If you go to a GSSF Match the Glock Amourers will replace the parts for free.
The old parts have a black finish and the new parts have a silver finish.
I would replace the recoil spring assembly with a current one as well.
1:Firing Pin
2:Extractor(Non-LCI/90 Degree Extraction Port)
3:Firing pin safety and spring
4:Spring loaded bearing(Non-LCI/90 Degree Extraction Port)
5:Trigger bar(trigger assembly)
This is part of the 6 part upgrade(recall) that Glock implemented in the early 1990s.
If you go to a GSSF Match the Glock Amourers will replace the parts for free.
The old parts have a black finish and the new parts have a silver finish.
I would replace the recoil spring assembly with a current one as well.
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