Getting started reloading the .30-30

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Armored farmer

Armored farmer

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I have searched THR for some answers but have had few results. In fact, the search feature doesn't seem to be working.

I have been casting my own bullets, and reloading for .45colt and .357 for years. Three shotgun gauges also.

I am going to start casting bullets, and reloading for my 336 Marlin also. I already have a press and a hand priming tool.

My questions:
1) I need to choose a bullet mold for a versatile .30-30 plinker/varmit/target/deer sized game bullet. I'm thinking 150gr???.
2) does it need to be a gas check bullet???
3) I am thinking Lee Carbide 3-die set, but do I also need a factory crimp die because of loading in the tubular mag???
4) does anyone tumble-lube w/alox??

I will most likely buy Lee equipment.
 
The 170gr FP Lee bullet (with gas check) shoots well out of most 30-30s that I have tried it in and does just fine with the Lee Alox.

I have RCBS dies with the Lee crimp die.
 
i like the Lyman 311041 i use this boolit in my win 94
and in my Encore 308 its a good all around boolit
 
I used a 173 gr lyman gas checked bullet, sized to .310" They can be loaded with IMR 4895/H4895 almost to full 30-30 velocity, using less powder. Get a Lyman "M" die to flare the case mouth for bullet seating. No crimp needed. CastBullets_20090207_001.jpg
 
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If you have the Micro Groove barrel like mine, it will save some frustration if you slug your bore and size the bullet .001 over.

I've shot some purchased cast bullets that were .309 and .311, plain base. Both were used with Unique, shot at low velocities.

I had much better results with the .311s. POI was much lower than jacketed factory.

Tonight I loaded up some TL 160 gr, .311 sized, G/C bullets that I cast myself. They're from a mold with a pointed tip, so they wont be going into the magazine tube.

I loaded them with IMR 4198 for about 1600 FPS. I plan on shooting them tomorrow night if the sun doesn't set before I get off work.

I'm still looking for a G/C mold that will drop bullets that I can size to .311. Lee doesn't seem to offer one in their aluminum line in the 170 gr range that I'm looking for.

I've read that the 185 gr .303 mold will cause chamber issues because of the nose profile, but that's secondhand internet scuttlebutt. Might be true, might not.
 
Hungry1 said:
If you have the Micro Groove barrel like mine, it will save some frustration if you slug your bore and size the bullet .001 over.

I've shot some purchased cast bullets that were .309 and .311, plain base. Both were used with Unique, shot at low velocities.

I had much better results with the .311s. POI was much lower than jacketed factory.

Tonight I loaded up some TL 160 gr, .311 sized, G/C bullets that I cast myself. They're from a mold with a pointed tip, so they wont be going into the magazine tube.

I loaded them with IMR 4198 for about 1600 FPS. I plan on shooting them tomorrow night if the sun doesn't set before I get off work.

I'm still looking for a G/C mold that will drop bullets that I can size to .311. Lee doesn't seem to offer one in their aluminum line in the 170 gr range that I'm looking for.

I've read that the 185 gr .303 mold will cause chamber issues because of the nose profile, but that's secondhand internet scuttlebutt. Might be true, might not.
Click to expand...
Microgroove barrel aside, the 30-30 is one of the easiest and most "forgiving" calibers to cast and handload for.
Buggest thing you have to remember, is until you are familiar with the operation, KISS applies.
Keep your variables to a minimum.. and hold your speed to around 1600fps..
 
The Lyman 311041 is the "classic" cast bullet for 30-30. It's been loaded/shot successfully in prolly every 30-30, lever, bolt, pump, and single shot...
 
Anybodys 30-30 seating die will crimp if you need to crimp.

It's only a matter of adjusting the die to crimp.

rc
 
I've found cast lead to be a challenge out of modern .30-30 rifles. Accuracy in all cases was easier to achieve with jacketed bullets. It may have something to do with the rifling. Is your Marlin Micro-Groove?

Also, I found it essential to give a very thorough cleaning and de-coppering to the bore before shooting cast loads out of it.

And there's the added issue of your bore diameter and how to size your bullets.

In any case this write-up by Jim Taylor is a great place to start:

http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/model94_3030.htm
 
Thanks for the info everyone. It is much appreciated.
Yes, my rifle is micro-groove rifled.

Thanks for the link Cosmoline. I am reading, and bookmarking that info for sure.

Is everyone in favor of the Lee carbide 3-die set??
 
Lee doesn't make a carbide die set in any bottle-neck rifle caliber.

In fact nobody does, except Dillon in .223 & .308.

If I was you, I would by a standard 2-die set.

And spend the money you save on a Lyman M-die expander since you plan to load cast bullets.
It will save you a lot of grief seating cast rifle bullets since there is no way to bell them to prevent lead shaving like there is with pistol dies..

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/dies/rifle-die-details.php?brand=3&cartridge=26&die=52

rc
 
I reload 30/30 with a plinking load. I use a gas checked cast lead Lee C309-113-F in front of 10 1/2 grains of Trail Boss. I get excellant accuracy and it a good plinking load with little recoil, however not a good hunting load for large game.
 
RD311165 for marlin 30-30 2.5 Sb/Pb, HT or WD GC's Any standard 30-30 die but Lee, M die for 303 (31 plug). H4895 or LeverE powder. 1 MOA. Best I've found yet. AC for unique or 2400 plinkers. Any lube will do, I just use Mazzola oil, good to ~ 2000 fps. Offhand shots.
 

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I use the Lee 170 grain .309 mould for my .30-.30. I load them plain based over 10 or so grains of unique for a nice plinking load. No leading and good accuracy. Lots of fun. Gonna have to buy some gas checks one day and see what I can really get that bullet to do.
 
I just traded this one- http://www.titanreloading.com/molds/bullet-molds/30-caliber-rifle/lee-dc-mold-c309-200-r-

For this one- http://www.titanreloading.com/molds/bullet-molds/30-caliber-rifle/lee-dc-mold-c309-160-r-

The 200gr I don't care for out of the 336. I just got the 160gr in trade for it yesterday and haven't had a chance to play with the 160's yet.



I've been loading .30-30 on and off for years, and just recently got my setup back together to load again(for everything).

One thing to be careful with, and I've only recently found out that the seat/crimp die is a pain to use. I've been having to seat the bullet, then go back and crimp it, can't do it in one stroke because no matter how many different ways I adjust it, I was crushing the shoulder.

These are Lyman dies that I use. I use a .308 expander die, not the M die, just a .308 expander that's with my .30-06 set. It opens the neck up to .310-311 and the boolits are sized at .309 and it fits well for the crimp.
 
FYI, I just started finding a plinking/coyote load for my Marlin 30-30. I wanted a load using the 110 g. copper plated round nose Berry's bullets that I have a thousand of. My goal was to find a load that will have the same POI as the Winchester 150 g. without scope adjustment. I have found that 13 g. of Unique at 2100 fps causes 50 yd. POI to be 1" low and 100 yd. POI to be 1" high. This meets my goal criteria however although the fired brass do not show signs of pressure problems I am a little concerned that this much pistol powder going BANG all at once may not be a safe load.

Any knowledgeable reloaders out there have a comment on this??

Next Friday I am going to try to duplicate the trajectory and accuracy features of this load with one of 5 rifle powders I have on hand.
 
Captain,
I've loaded up 14gr of Blue Dot for 2,000fps using Rainier plated, and avid poster of Blue Dot loads on another forum said 18gr was max, but I never went above 2,000 because that was all the bullet was rated for as a carbine bullet. I was getting pretty high velocity spreads, around 120fps. Fun plinkers.

Blue dot is a good bit slower than Unique, so I would be a little bit concerned with 13gr of Unique, but perhaps you worked up to it since you said it didn't show any signs of pressure. Consider blue Dot if you have any on hand.
 
50 yd. POI to be 1" low and 100 yd. POI to be 1" high
Click to expand...
Backwards? I've gone to 11, I think 13 is high. I've always done the seat & crimp in separate steps for everything. The Lee FCD works great for 30-30. Blue dot & 2400 are about the same. I used 17 of 2400 with 165 LFN GC'd - still shoots like a 22LR. How did that 200 gr. fit in the 30-30- case? My 165 is .05" from the lands.
 
The 200gr I don't care for out of the 336. I
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried to get the big bullets to work out of a Win 94 and it never cooperated. One thing I noticed about the .30 WCF is it likes what it knows. Stick with the standard range of 150 to 170 grain and the rifles will eat them up. But it's not a round that offers a lot of room for experimentation, esp. if you're dealing with a tube feeder.
 
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