Glock Trigger Inconsistencies

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WrongHanded

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I know a lot of people don't like Glock triggers. If you're not a Glock fan, just go ahead and pass this by.

I have two Gen4 Glocks. A G22 and a G23. The G23 has always had the better trigger. I installed the NY-1 spring in both guns. The G23 still had the better trigger. It breaks with a crisp snap, but the G22 has always seemed a little mushy. In fact the G22 trigger seemed so bad that I decided to try a 3.5# connector with the NY-1 spring.

Even though the G23 didn't seem to need it, I bought two ZEV 3.5# connectors and installed both. The G23 trigger is now awesome. The G22 was still mushy, and had some stacking or was binding up a little. I looked at every aspect of this trigger system I could think of, and smoothed out everything I could thing of. I even tried reshaping the trigger bar where it interacts with the connector. This helped a little, but it's still not the same.

I'm starting to wonder if the G22 isn't actually bad, and maybe the G23 trigger is just particularly good. I used to think Glock triggers were all fairly poor but basically the same. I can't say I still believe that.

I'll have to get my hands on some other Glocks to double check. Anyone else notice a difference in the triggers between their Glock pistols?
 
They are definitely not all the same even among the same model and generation. The same generous tolerances that make them easy to work on and reliable mean that variations can combine to make one trigger better than another.
 
I have the APEX Action Enhancement trigger package assembly on my Gen3 17, and this is the best trigger setup of all my Glocks. This has a nice rolling trigger break which I like. The APEX setups use the stock striker spring, the stock FPB spring, and the stock trigger return spring. My Gen3 19 has the trigger bar takeoff from the 17, and the APEX firing pin block plunger and connector, and that is also a nice trigger. The 19X and the Gen4 21 have stock triggers, which I like.
 
I love Glocks, but their triggers are frustrating. I have four of them and all are a little bit different. The best is my Gen 4 G29; 4 lbs and crisp.

I just brought home a Gen 5 G23 and it is as good as the G29's, just a little heavier at 5 lbs.

I've found that I can make any Glock trigger better with polishing and the OEM (-) connector, but I can't make them the same. It's weird.
 
I have a bunch of Glocks and couldnt tell you if one trigger was any different from another, simply because I dont pay attention to them when I shoot.

My focus is on the sights and target, and the rounds pretty much always go where I was looking when the gun goes off.

I do the same thing with all my other guns too, and it works really well. :)
 
I have a bunch of Glocks and couldnt tell you if one trigger was any different from another, simply because I dont pay attention to them when I shoot.

My focus is on the sights and target, and the rounds pretty much always go where I was looking when the gun goes off.

I do the same thing with all my other guns too, and it works really well. :)

That's a good way to look at it when shooting. I don't obsess over triggers when I shoot. I just shoot. Both guns will work just fine for SD.

But this is about the mechanics of the trigger system. Which, being mechanically minded, I find both interesting and perplexing.
 
That's a good way to look at it when shooting. I don't obsess over triggers when I shoot. I just shoot. Both guns will work just fine for SD.

But this is about the mechanics of the trigger system. Which, being mechanically minded, I find both interesting and perplexing.
There's certainly differences in the geometry of components between frames which may be one factor. Also the little things that it's tough to pinpoint , like the striker interrupter thing that may bind or have extra resistance but must move before firing for example. There are lots of parts and every example will have variations to one degree or another.
When I bought my g30sf it was weird and unreliable , as far as I know it was a trigger bar issue that arose from putting a standard part in the smaller area afforded by the slightly smaller frame dimensions . That's how I understood it but may be off. Either way, my point is even though parts are generally interchangeable the result won't ever be identical because of the relationship between parts that have minor difference that may be hard to notice or even measure accurately .
JMO
 
I have two Gen 3 G34s, a G45 and a Gen 3 G26. Out of the G34s one is 9 months old snd the other I got this month. Both triggers feel different from each other. One is mushier.
The G45 trigger is smooth but doesn’t have a distinct feel or step just before release. The G26 actually has a really nice feel to it. I do believe I will be upgrading the two G34 triggers.
 
There's certainly differences in the geometry of components between frames which may be one factor. Also the little things that it's tough to pinpoint , like the striker interrupter thing that may bind or have extra resistance but must move before firing for example. There are lots of parts and every example will have variations to one degree or another.
When I bought my g30sf it was weird and unreliable , as far as I know it was a trigger bar issue that arose from putting a standard part in the smaller area afforded by the slightly smaller frame dimensions . That's how I understood it but may be off. Either way, my point is even though parts are generally interchangeable the result won't ever be identical because of the relationship between parts that have minor difference that may be hard to notice or even measure accurately .
JMO

Yep, I hear what you're saying. Stamped and bent parts aren't ever going to be identical, and the simplicity of Glocks is based in part on fairly generous linkage between those parts. I ran through all the various little contact points, and all those friction surfaces. The G22 trigger is certainly much better than it originally was, and closer to the G23.

Realistically both triggers are more than good enough. But sometimes I get this bug where I really want to know the reason why.

Currently I'm thinking there are three possibilities. The friction where the NY-1 spring contacting the underside of the sear tab on the trigger bar. The trigger itself rubbing in the frame, or the trigger sear and striker sear interaction is still a little rough. Some of the parts in the G22 (the drop safety plunger and the sear surface of the striker) had some sort of copper colored coating on them which seemed a little rough, and began to wear through. I though that was a little odd.
 
Yep, I hear what you're saying. Stamped and bent parts aren't ever going to be identical, and the simplicity of Glocks is based in part on fairly generous linkage between those parts. I ran through all the various little contact points, and all those friction surfaces. The G22 trigger is certainly much better than it originally was, and closer to the G23.

Realistically both triggers are more than good enough. But sometimes I get this bug where I really want to know the reason why.

Currently I'm thinking there are three possibilities. The friction where the NY-1 spring contacting the underside of the sear tab on the trigger bar. The trigger itself rubbing in the frame, or the trigger sear and striker sear interaction is still a little rough. Some of the parts in the G22 (the drop safety plunger and the sear surface of the striker) had some sort of copper colored coating on them which seemed a little rough, and began to wear through. I though that was a little odd.
I've had the flaky silver coating on some parts that caused some possible roughness but not anything crazy. I have no experience with the NY -1 modification but I've heard that it gives a heavier but crisp trigger, I could be incorrect on that .

When I shoot glocks I'll ride the reset and that helps my trigger control a lot. I'm a single action revolver shooter at heart and to me nothing even comes close, that's why I just leave my glocks alone now.
 
I have no experience with the NY -1 modification but I've heard that it gives a heavier but crisp trigger, I could be incorrect on that .

The NY-1 as a drop-in with the standard connector is supposed to make the trigger heavier, but gives a more consistent weight through the pull. It was supposed to feel more like a DA revolver trigger.

Well, it does most of that, except it seems to present a wall at the end of the pull. That wall is pretty heavy. The trigger is fighting against the NY-1 spring, and the friction on the sear, as well as the downward trajectory of the standard connector. My G23 is crisp through that wall, but the G22 is mushy.

Now, with the NY-1 spring and a 3.5# connector instead of the standard 5# connector, the wall at the end of the pull disappears. Which makes the trigger a smooth and consistent weight that breaks as a surprise in my G23. In the G22, there's a little stacking or or something. If it weren't for the "glass rod" break of the G23, I would probably think the G22 trigger was great.

Anyway, I like the NY-1 and 3.5# connector combo. It costs about $20 and seems well worth it to me. But DA revolvers are where I started shooting, and maybe that's why I like this setup.
 
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