gong target size for 100 & 200 yd

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mainecoon

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I'd like to know what are some good sizes for metal gongs for a target range. I have some core-10 steel and was going to get it cut in a variety of diameters for each distance. Going to be shooting from 22LR up to 30.06. Thanks!
 
Smallest steel target I have is 2 inches in diameter not much of a "gong" as they are part of a plate rack. It resets off of a 5" target on the opposite end so if folks can't hit the small target at distance they can at least play with the larger ones.

This is a video of how it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezrB98q4pc0
 
For standing pistols I have a 24" gong at 100 yards, standing rifle 10" gong, and for benched rifles two 2" and one 4" spinner I set at 150 yards.
 
How thick does the metal need to be for a .30-06 at 200 yards? I do not want to hijack the thread, but thought it was related, thank you.
 
For iron sights shooting I would have one at least 10" in diameter for 100 yards. If scoped, even 4" is big enough, but it'll be a tough shot off hand.

AR500 steel should be 3/8" at 100 or 200 yards for full power rifles like the .30-06. A 1/2" thick one could probably handle it at 200 but I wouldn't risk it considering the cost difference isn't that much.

Don't use anything softer than AR500 for full power rifles....
 
It really depends on what the objective is.

I bought a 16" 1/2" Gong for 100 yards that I can shoot with anything I have, from a .22 pistol to a .458 Win Mag. It won't sound off like a thinner plate, but it can take anything we shoot. We shoot it with pistol and rifle. It is big enough that even the rookie shooters can hit it with a rifle, and those of us with a little more experience have fun shooting it with pistols.

I bought a 10" 1/2" "Bullseye" Target that is fun to shoot with rifles for those who want a little bit bigger challenge. It has a 3" hole in the front plate with a 4" plate behind it. If you miss the back plate it hits the bigger plate and gives you good feedback instead of a blind miss. And again, at 1/2" we can shoot it with anything.

If you will mainly shoot light calibers then thinner steel will sound off better.

Here is a pretty good guide for AR 500 steel.

I guess what I mean is how much of a challenge do you want it to be? Will you shoot offhand or off a bench?
 
I dislike round. Too much wasted material. My poor bots gongs are 12x12 and 14x16 but I also run 4x6 plates rattling around on a wooden a frame. 4x6 at 50 yards is fun with most things, especially handgun. The big ones are too easy.
 
Metal Targets

This pipe cap was free. Has holes for hanging. High power hunting bullets will not penetrate it. Not for 22LR . I have a different 8" plate for that. Target1_zps27376cf2.jpg
 
We've been using a 5" disc at 100 yds for an offhand side match after our CMP Rimfire Sporter match. The good shooters can ring it 50% of the time or better.
 
I like, 8-12" for offhand 4-6" for kneeling etc.. I've a 2" for prone and getting zoned in before shooting Tannerite.

Pockmarked plates like the one shown in the photo above should IMHO be immediately retired -- the creators can focus splatter straight back at you greatly increasing the potential danger.

3/8" is generally thick enough for all but the magnums at 100+ yards, but I buy 1/2" if possible for targets that might be used with centerfire rifles.


AR500 or above is the way to go, as scrap is rarely hard enough. If a .308 FMJ doesn't creator it, its likely fine, otherwise be careful!
 
Our club runs a match that uses 6" at 200 for a prone and 8" at 100 for standing and kneeling. The 8" at a hundred is a bit on the large size though, I think a 6 would be better. The 6" at 200 is quite challenging to see when shooting iron sight. I think we should put the 8 at 200 and the 6 at 100.
 
Depending on what you're practicing for, bigger isn't necessarily bad. I have swingers on my place from 100 out to 500. The majority our on my pistols range, so they see double duty. Some of mine I must have a spotter to see where the off shots go.

One problem with the smaller steel plate depending on your back stop is seeing the misses. A solution is to go a size larger than what you think you need and just paint a smaller "bulls-eye" on the larger target.

I have a mix match of 6", 8" 12" 18" IDPA silhouettes, a full size PIG and a full size turkey.

Chuck
 
Most AR500 steel targets are 3/8 inch thick.

As for diameter, one rule of thumb that I've seen for challenging shooting is to make the targets 4MOA in diameter, so ~4 inches for 100 yds, ~8 inches for 200 yds, etc.

Other than that, it's pretty standard to see steel targets that are 8 or 10 inch circles, or if you want to get fancy, targets that are about the same size as the half-scale USPSA targets.
 
10" is on sale now $99.99

I'd just get a raw plate and mount it with iron pipes or re-bar pounded into the ground.

There are lots of threads here about hanging steel plates -- trade-off between robustness and portability No way that stand will hold up very well except for .22lr and maybe most handguns.


I'll tell you from experience that S-hooks get chewed up amazingly fast from the splatter unless they are also AR-500 (very un-likely).

Its also amazing how often people hit the chains, usually they break on the first hit :(
 
I've broken my chains at 100 & 200 yds with my mosin & Ak probably a dozen times over the last 18 months. I just switched to using 1/8" steel cable, hoping that the smaller cross section & greater flexibility will allow partial hits to pass by w/o breaking the cable. we'll see how that theory works... my gong is a 10" 3/4 thick hardox-450. It seems to stand up to anything but the steel core. steel jackets are fine. however, I can definitely tell that the cutting process softened the metal some. I put divots in the edges, & right where the bolt goes thru. oh well, when that side gets too pocked I can just turn it around...
 
When I shot a lot, 1" per 100 is what I made.... I like a challenge!:evil:

The 3" spinner I had at 300yrds for practice, received a pounding!
 
I use ar500 plates after I started hearing ricochets off of mild steel. I also suggest buying cheap tow strap and attaching it to the back of the plate with a carriage bolt. The straps can take a lot of hits before it breaks, unlike a chain. I've also heard old fire hoses or conveyor belts are good too, but I don't have access to those so i dont know.

Demos
 
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