H&R 925 - hammer not going fully forward

[MILKWALKER]

Greetings, I inherited a H&R 925 "Defender" and I noticed that the hammer seems to either not fully drop or is rebounding too far. It actually sits so far back after the trigger is pulled that I can rotate the cylinder when I ought not be able.

The cylinder doesn't rotate when the hammer is held forward.

I have not yet fired this due to safety concerns. I have checked the mainspring and it is not made of plastic at all.

Any ideas?

Here it is at rest:



Here is how it should rest:

 

[4v50 Gary]

Doesn't the trigger have to be held all the way back for the hammer to go forward?

When the hammer is forward, the cylinder stop should lock up the cylinder so it doesn't rotate. No one wants a spinning cylinder when the hammer drops.

 

[MILKWALKER]

Doesn't the trigger have to be held all the way back for the hammer to go forward?

For it to engage with the firing pin yes. It should still sit further forward than it does here.

The ability for the cylinder to rotate with the hammer in this quarter-cock space is a huge tell I think

 

[4v50 Gary]

Are you holding the trigger all the way to the rear?

 

[MILKWALKER]

Are you holding the trigger all the way to the rear?

When I fire it? Yes.

Here, this may help more:

H&R 1

youtu.be

H&R 2

youtu.be

 

[243winxb]

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hr/revolvers-hr/925 pushing the trigger forward, lowers the hammer in video. Hammer should free fall when sear moves out of the way?
The sear may be dragging or in contact with the hammer?

Was the gun taken apart before?

 

[4v50 Gary]

I don't think it's the mainspring. It may be reassembled incorrectly.

 

[MILKWALKER]

Not that I'm aware of, but it was purchased in an auction so...

 

[MILKWALKER]

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hr/revolvers-hr/925 pushing the trigger forward, lowers the hammer in video. Hammer should free fall when sear moves out of the way?
The sear may be dragging or in contact with the hammer?

Was the gun taken apart before?

Oh, also, I removed the main sprint and the hammer is no longer being pushed to the rear. I am fairly confident the tension is coming form the main spring. Would another video showing so help?

 

[243winxb]

No. Hands on is needed. Take your time, you will figure it out.

 

[4v50 Gary]

A revolver is the sum of all parts. You have to know how each part interacts with the others. I've never taken one apart and trying to figure it out from the posted parts diagram without having the gun in front of me doesn't help.

Yes, the tension on the hammer comes from the mainspring. That's what it does - push the hammer forward. But there are other parts that aren't working correctly.

 

[MILKWALKER]

Pretty sure the mainspring is a major issue.

I received a 4" barrel twin today that had a busted plastic main spring. Swapped the snub spring in and it acted almost exactly like the snup does.

I have at least one replacement on the way from Numrich, fingers crossed it's just that so I can order a second and be happy with these

 

[4v50 Gary]

I bet it's the lifter that's not getting out of the way; but I need to examine it myself to confirm. The lifter engages the hammer and causes the hammer to rotate back. It should disenage; freeing the hammer under the pressure of the mainspring to rotate forward. Something is arresting the hammer's forward movement and I don't think it's the Transfer Bar because the Transfer Bar is supposed to be in the up position for the hammer to strike it (and thereby for the transfer bar to transfer energy to the frame mounted firing pin).

If the problem persist, suggest you take the NRA Summer Gunsmithing Revolver repair course or just Summer Firearms Repair Class (if any). Tinkering with a fyre-arm without fully understanding or trying to understand how the parts work with each other can cause more problems.

It may just need cleaning as built up oils can jam up the parts.

 

[MILKWALKER]

Update: It had the wrong model mainspring in it. The Numrich replacement basically fixed everything.

My only further concern is the rebounding hammer not always fully resetting all the way backward to the 1/8th cock safe spot and has a habit of sitting on a moving firing pin. Correctable by tapping the hammer back when holstering while loaded, a non-factor if shooting.

 

[4v50 Gary]

If the transfer bar is down, the hammer can hit the firing pin

Was the original spring too weak?