have you been saved by a safe?

Status
Not open for further replies.
When my ex and i divorced i moved from my house about an hour south from me now. I took all my stuff but a yamaha 660 grizzly, Two snap-on tool box's full of tools, and my safe full of guns, jewelry, documents, and cash. When i went back with my buddies a trailor and two trucks my quad and tools where gone the safe was moved about 3 inches and left they got every thing but the safe and it's contents. I will always have a safe. I believe mine is a winchester dont know the model # but its about 6x4x4.
 
great posts everyone.

Let me add a question for you safe owners. Ill also add it to the original post.

question: ratio=(cost of your safe)/(value of your guns). Priceless items should be noted but not included. What is your ratio? Im trying to find the largest value people consider acceptable because lets face it... you wont protect a 500 dollar gun with a 2000 dollar safe...how far will this logic go before its a good balance of safety and cost.

my ratio is .06 currently but would be approx .5 if i got a cheap safe or expensive RSC.
 
You can't beat neighbors...

as anti smash burglars would have to make more noise than my noisy neighbors can abide, I have a gun value / "safe " value ratio of 100/1. My case is expected to keep a dedicated ax weilding thief busy for eternity if he ignores the warning that primers and powder are inside. All others are instantly and forever dissuaded from "picking" something up while I'm not watching. I've never lost a gun and have though about hiding some. But it would have to be a custom hiding place/built in that no crook would look for. I'm looking for a larger version of the "between the studs" box often seen in catalogs. If one of those were availabel, I might fix some drywall somewhere.;)
 
People who break into houses want to leave as soon as possible. Given the choice between spending 10 minutes try to break into your gun safe with no idea what's actually in it or just grabbing your laptop computer and jewelry and making a run for it, I suspect they'll go for the quick and easy score. The point of a gun safe or a car alarm is to make it enough of a hassle that the crooks will go for something easier.
 
I read, and agree with, that you have little use for a safe.

Why?

Consider this: Your whole arsenel won't stop the federal ninja, nor will you need the entire shebang to stop a burgler. You also can only hold so many guns and so much ammo at one time. The author maintains that more than one rifle , pistol , and shottie per house is unneccessary.

Think about it. What's the point of stashing everything in one place? if the ATF stops by for a visit with black riot vans, you'll be done for anyways, so the less you have at "home" the better, and if you get broken into, the less you have the better. Carry in the house...
 
My Cannon safe

is certainly a RSC. Came home a few years back and found some of Mama's jewels missing, went downstairs and found the safe had been attacked with a pry bar and sledge. Plenty of marks but they didn't get in. Safe still works fine.

Went out and got a Ft. Knox Yeager. Big bucks, but I sleep better. No guns in the old safe now.
 
My dream setup would have a Homak or Stack-On metal cabinet full of Century Arms "U Fix-Em" special bottom-of-the-barrel C&R's with a couple junk revolvers...

as the concealed door leading to where the real safe was...
 
Some time back we were burglarized, they smashed in the front door while we were at work.

They cleaned out all my wife's jewelery that she couldn't be bothered to put in the safe. Harsh lesson learned.

My keepsakes and firearms were secure, not that they didn't try to get inside, but they didn't have the time or capability.

Mine is a Cannon safe, old style with key and combo and cost about the same as a new S&W pistol and I rationalized its purchase at the time in that way. My safe is lag bolted to the joists, bottom and back, and in a space that doesn't allow room for pry bars.

The day after the incident, we contacted an alarm company and got a monitored system installed soon after with IR and other top secret detection capabilities...and a large doberman/sheppard dog.
 
Not including ammo and magazines I have in the safe, my safe ratio is .46. It has space for 20+ rifles and who knows how many handguns so I have some growing room.
 
There is no substitute for a Safe, a House alarm and a good Insurance policy.
 
Last edited:
Had a buddy whose house was broken into. The gun safe was broken into and everything taken out. There was a 30 minute window of oppurtunity for them to do this. Took the door off the hinges.
Even the cheap "safes" for $300 at lowes have bolts on both sides of the door....
 
A guy i know has a big nice safe. he went to texas for a vacation and some ppl broke into his house and they stole everything worth something except they couldnt get into the safes and alos for some dumb reason they didnt take the vehicals when the keys were in the house
 
Safe question

I just read Trebor's write-up on RSC vs. safe and he mentions servicing the safe.

I scored an older American Security safe a couple of years ago with the mechanical spin combination dial (made in 1990, can't find a model #)

For those of you in the industry: What kind of regular servicing is performed and what is the recommended interval for it? What should one expect to pay for servicing, provided nothing is broken or worn?

Thanks.
-Jay
 
I scored an older American Security safe a couple of years ago with the mechanical spin combination dial (made in 1990, can't find a model #)

If the dial comes to a stop on the last turn, it's a mechanical lock which does require professional periodic service. If the dial does not come to a stop, it's a direct entry lock, and you can service it yourself.

For those of you in the industry: What kind of regular servicing is performed and what is the recommended interval for it? What should one expect to pay for servicing, provided nothing is broken or worn?

A locksmith will check the lock, boltwork, hinges, etc. for anything abnormal. The lock will be disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, reassembled, and checked for proper function.

Most manufacturers state that the lock needs to be serviced yearly for the warranty to remain valid. In most residential uses, you're probably OK doing it every 5 years or so.

Most people do not maintain their safe, so I doubt yours has ever been serviced. Not a bad idea at this point, just to be on the safe side.

Shouldn't cost much more than $100. Look under "safes and vaults" in the yellow pages first, and if nobody is there, then try "locksmiths". I can also point you towards somebody qualified if you need me to.
 
If the dial comes to a stop on the last turn, it's a mechanical lock which does require professional periodic service. If the dial does not come to a stop, it's a direct entry lock, and you can service it yourself.

Here's something I hadn't known about.

Which is more common on RSC's, mechanical locks or direct entry locks?

What are the practical differences between them?
 
As someone said, there are differing levels of thieves. Youngsters who smash and grab and the professional burglars.

If a pro comes expecting a safe he will bring tools. You are probably screwed. I try to not let people know I have guns in the house. Word gets around to the wrong people.

A buddy had a huge safe that cost a fortune. Too big to move into the house it sat in the garage... right next to the cutting torch and tanks. Bad idea. He came home to find they had cut the top at one corner and using pry bars (his pry bars kept in the garage) they had managed to peel back the top far enough to reach in and snag about 8 guns. Don't leave the tools that can defeat your safe at the crook's disposal.

I have been burglarized 3 times at 3 different houses. First time no safe and I lost 23 guns. In 22 years 4 have been recovered so far. The next 2 times I had a safe and lost no guns. On moron tried working on the lock with a Buck knife to no avail and the other time they didn't even try the safe. They just grabbed the TV and VCR and ran. Kids.

Any safe is better than no safe. A good safe is best. Forget about hiding guns. They will be found. When I was hit that 1st time everything I owned (that they didn't take) was on the floor. They opened and dug through everything in the house.

I now have two safes. One requires a key and combination. The other requires a key and a special handle that is removed. I keep the key and handle for safe 2 inside safe 1. I also have an alarm in the room with the safes.

I still worry when gone. I worry a lot.

After 3 burglaries, two stolen vehicles, two hit and run incidents, multiple vehicle burglaries, one assault with a deadly weapon and one armed robbery you can understand why I have absolutely zero compassion or sympathy for criminals. Criminals should be killed on the spot regardless of the nature of their crime. Today's shoplifter is tomorrow's burglar in your house threatening you and your family. You think a shoplifter or pickpocket would hesitate to kill you or anyone else in his effort to get away if confronted? Criminals are a cancer on society and should be excised post haste. Criminal justice is one instance where I agree with Islam. Cut off the hand on the first offense and death for a second.

Except I would skip the amputation and go straight to the death penalty.
 
Here's something I hadn't known about.

Which is more common on RSC's, mechanical locks or direct entry locks?

What are the practical differences between them?

I'd like to know this as well. Is one any better than the other?
 
My new safe. I have to bolt it down still, but between that and the video, and home alarm sensors (it's what I do for a living) their gonna have to be damn fast to get 'er open.

270151037_rPpZ7-XL.jpg


-Mark.
 
Here's something I hadn't known about. Which is more common on RSC's, mechanical locks or direct entry locks? What are the practical differences between them?

I'd like to know this as well. Is one any better than the other?

If the safe really has the RSC rating issued by UL, it should have a mechanical lock.

A mechanical lock is just that. There is a mechanical function that retracts and extends a locking bolt into the body of the lock. These locks are more resistant to manipulation, and have an internal relocker. Punching a mechanical lock will not open a safe.

A direct entry lock is a series of wheels with a cut out. Turning the safe handle moves the safe's boltwork into those slots. These locks are much easier to manipulate, and are punched fairly easily. Punching a direct entry lock will result in all of the lock parts laying in the bottom of your safe door.

If you're sole purpose is to keep kids away from your guns, then a direct entry lock is fine. If you're trying to protect against burglary, you should be using a UL rated lock (mechanical or electronic).
 
My home was hit over Christmas while I was on vacation.

The safe definitely saved my ass. They stole some things that were easy to grab, but did not touch the safe. I have a Treadlock that weighs about 600lbs empty.

Very thankful I had obtained it a couple months prior.
 
Fella's;

I'm still trying to figure out why anybody'd want to shoot a Nikon, other than in the figurative sense of shooting a camera, in the first place.
I've got a Nikon SLR, Nikon digital, and several Nikon scopes. Shooting any of them would cost me big bucks & make no sense at all.

900F
 
I never had a problem with someone breaking in, but when I bought a Sentry, I custom-built a closet for it under the lowest part of my stairs it would fit in, barely wider than the safe and then bolted it to the floor. They'd have to bust through 2x4 walls to attack the sides or rear of the safe, or take a chainsaw to my stairs to get to the top.

Kharn
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top